Jereme6655

14/41 is what comes stock....if you liked it before just count the big sprockets teeth and order one with the same tooth count.

never seen that before either.....factory epoxy? someone has been inside your cases before.

so did it make its way all the way into the cylinders and wind up needing a new topend?

you either have a bent sprocket or your rear carrier bearings are shot and letting it wobble...

cause you've had one cylinder running really good and the other one wasn't firing at all. chances are what was happening was since one cylinder was firing it was burning the fuel....but since the other one wasn't.....it probably loaded it WAY up and flooded the one cylinder.....making it hard to fire.

okay.....so you changed out the main jets to 320's.....but what about the pilot jets? it sounds like your pilot jets are too small. My bike used to do the same thing.....the previous owner had the stock sized pilot jet in it and aftermarket pipes on it. it would bog out like a bastard and required you to pump the hell outta the throttle just to keep it running. once it got past 1/2 throttle the thing would come alive........i pulled my pilots out and put 27.5's which are the next size up and the thing runs like champ now....

like NET said.....unplug the TORS black box. Its cause the carbs got wet...that's why they hang open. Unplug the TORS black box under neath your tank on the left side and it should fix your problems. Whenever i wash my bike i always take 2 gallon sized zip lock bags and put cover the carbs with them. JUST to make sure.

they join up on top of the motor.....in front of the carbs (radiator side) and the hose that is connected to them goes up to the handlebars to vent

there are 2 ways to solve the problem of the coolant bottle.......first is to buy a "kit" which is a billet part that bolts into where the rear of the old air box used to be and has two holes for you to push the coolant bottle into. My buddy as this and its nice.....but i don't know if its warranted as its kinda expensive. For my bike the previous owner thought outside of the box a little bit. if you look at your air box (the rear of it) and look at where the coolant bottle pops into it......he had cut the back of the box so that it will still bolt up...but cut so that the only thing there was the 2 holes for the coolant bottle. and its free.

ok.... stock hp from a banshee was right around the 35 hp mark. With pipes you can get it near 40 depending on the pipe. IF it has been ported (still stock stroke) with pipes and depending on how high the compression has been raised (stock good compression was around 130) then you can push 60-65. closer to 65-70 with different carbs. if its a +4mm motor with pipes and porting (try to avoid the +4mm made with a spacer plate for under the cylinders) then your lookin at around 70hp. 70-75 with correct pipes and carbs. as for speed......yes it IS possible to get a banshee to go 95. HOWEVER.....realistically on stock gearing your are looking at around 70-75. 95 is WAY too fast for stock gearing.....the motor can't rev that high hahaaa. Suspensions are definately a good thing. if you can look for one with either elka or works dual rate front shocks it'll make a HUGE difference......but more $$$. its a plus if its comes with say +2 +1 a-arms. another thing to look at is the frames.....if they've been in a really hard high speed roll it may have tweaked the frame. To make it easy to see just stand the bike up on its rear grab bar and take a step back. The frame SHOULD NOT look like it is an "S"....should be straight haha. Also if you can get the guy to take the tank plastics off then look at frame tube that goes in front the tank and holds the steering stem....they can be bent too if its rolled really hard. The only other thing i can say is to just ask questions......twice. if you catch 2 different answers then i'd be leary. And ask the guy NOT to start it before your there....you want to see it do a "cold start". make sure to feel the pipes or jugs for warmth to see if he has started it before you got there. And take it for a ride......offer to leave something as colateral and take it for a quick zip.....youd be amazed what you can learn if you just ride a bike 30 ft. Let us know what you decide!!!

hey CFH87.....you talking about racing the cr250 up north or do you have a drag strip near your house? I live in fraser and was just curious.....if you need any help with your build just let me know... Jereme

flip bike on side.....clean it real good. Then try jb weld. What's it gonna do if the jb weld fails...leak all over again? then your just in the same place..........dont' worry about it....just JB it.

did either of you do any work recently to your bike? like different pipes or airfilters? does it clear up and let the right pipe come to life around 1/2 throttle? we need more info on when your bike it doing this and what mods your bikes have on them.

its what andy has just called it and it has been rumored to be able to pull around 80hp on pump gas....

my suggestion is to take your jugs to a machine shop......they may look fine but they could be egg shaped or slightly outta round. we'd hate to see you get new pistons in there and go to go for a rip and blow the motor. besides.....if the pistons were totally fine then why woudn't he include them? i'd probably call jeff at FAST for the parts and whatnot.....i do know he does have a pretty sweet clutch that people seem to really like. as to a banshee making 90 hp........it is easily possible.....but the hard part is getting the power to come on when you want it (aka for woods its pretty low) otherwise you can wind up with the "light-switch" style powerband and it can get pretty hairy when your off in the woods...

egh boy......NET you just stumbled across something that can cause an argument here...hahaha. some will tell you that you "need" to do a compression test while its warm.....another will tell you that you "need" to do it while its cold. its basically up to the individual. My look on the subject is that if a motor comes into any shop not running and the mechanic is checking things real quick to discover the problem......how in the hell is he gonna be able to get a good compression test if he "must" do it while the motor is cold. He woudln't be able to do it. So my beliefs are that it CAN and probably should be done from the cold temp. although i do know that 2 different compression testers will always read different so i use the numbers as more of a set of quick reference/maintance numbers. There is one thing though.....when you do the compression test you should be using a comp tester that has the same length of threads that screw into the head as the spark plugs do...... the longer and shorter ones can throw your numbers off.......as to how much i have no idea.

theres different oppinions on what you should do to fix them on the trail.....some will say just let them sit for a while some will let them idle and a few have seen thigns like blipping the throttle or working the choke to help. The reason MOST people will pull the TORS off is because they have been known to cause problems with activating when they shouldn't. The little brain box (black box) or one of the micro switches will go nutty and think that your carbs aren't working right....however everything will be working fine and you'll be rippin through the desert at your favorite dune to roost and suddenly your bike is rev limited. haha......not a fun thing to deal with unless you know what the problem is.

Do you need a parachute when you jump from a perfectly good plane? Yes.....to answer your questions you should get the new gasket to assure that it wont leak. if you have the old gasket and its still in one piece you MAY be able to get it to seal.......but no guarentees on whether it will or how long it will last if it does seal.

personally i wouldn't......only cause i haven't heard anything about them. Id have to say that i'd call a site sponsor on here and get a crank through them. Andy at M&M has done massive amounts of research for all of us to learn from.....if anyones going to know what crank is going to hold up better than another one its going to be andy...

stock axle carrier? chances are your bearings are shot..... this happened to blueangel on here too. It started making a HORRIBLE sound while we were riding real slow and when we got back we threw a milk-crate under the frame and started her up. Then we fired it up and put it in first gear and let the axle rotate around on its own......couldn't have missed it if you were blind. The axle was wobbling back and forth....

nice bike buddy. Im going to suggest Jeff from FAST (farmandsandtoys.com)......but there are other site sponsors on here that i hear are just as good (kevin at HJR). As far as 6 years for a banshee without a rebuild......shit.....mines a 2001 and i just had my first rebuild this winter. haha... and as far as 4mm goes versus a stock bore.......if you do the "correct" 4mm build (ie getting it ported for the 4mm and not using a spacer plate and also making sure your using a 115 long rod crank) then it will be just as reliable as what your running right now. Give jeff a call and he will give you his thoughts about it and he can also help you if you want to add other parts or not. He's a super easy guy to talk to and will bend over backwards to make sure your stuff is running correctly

i get what your saying......BUT if your gonna want to go to a "stroker" motor then you will be needing new pistons anyways. which means your gonna have to have it bored to those pistons. I think what you would really want is to send your cylinders out to one of our site sponsors and have them "port" your cylinders. This is where they go through and modify your intake and exhaust ports and timing which will REALLY wake your bike up. And you don't have to have new pistons put in (unless you really do need it)

yea.....320 is rich. hell im runnin +4 timing, fmf fatties, 2-1 air filter (so theres no air box) vforce 2 reeds, and a FAST play/dune port and im at 1000ft and its 38 degrees here and i was recomended to try a 340. basically i got more than you do and your jetted (right now) where im probably going to be in the summer.......with not much done to your bike.

stick hand under banshee and use wrench to remove the drain bolt on the bottom of the motor. let fluid drain out. put drain bolt back in and tighten. remove fill plug on your trans. fill with required amount and correct fluid.

yes it will disable the TORS system. if you go through a puddle with the little black box removed it will not act as a rev limiter and leave you struggling to ride your bike back. it WILL however leave the chance for your carb slides to stick wide open at full throttle (which is why your TORS activated in the first place) and you will be stuck with a bike that is on a mission to ride you inot the woods at full speed. yea you heard right.....it can force the bike to go full throttle while your on it. Thats what the TORS was designed to fight against. your seems to be working fine (which is why im kinda against you removing a perfectly working safety feature). yes if you unplug it you will still be able to adjust the idle.