Jereme6655

ok.......2nd post about this...... so on your bike that you just bought and are having this problem with.... did you put the toomey pipes on it? have you modified it at all? What jets are in the carbs?

bk....welcome to the HQ buddy. Well.....its simple to find out if your running lean or not. What you need to do is a plug-chop. Warm your bike up with the current plugs in it......then shut it off and put in BRAND NEW plugs......fire it up and immediately do a full throttle run to the top of 6th gear. Then as soon as you hit the top of 6th.....pull the clutch in and shut the motor off and coast to a stop. pull out your test plugs and reinstall your old plugs and ride home.......then cut the threads off of the test plugs.... if its running correct it should be a milk choclaty color.......like a medium brown. if its a tan color its running too lean......if its a dark brown its running too rich. That's how you check if a 2stroke is jetted correctly. since you also have an aftermarket exhaust......id suggest rejetting the pilot jets to a 27.5 this way they flow a little more fuel at idle and it will also help with start-up

andy's right.....when you loosen the 2nd one it can actually twist a little and cause the first screw to bind again......make sure they're BOTH loose....

yea i dont know about that.....that's alot of force to be putting on just a small little area on the piston..... i wouldn't chance it.

there is not a certain number you are trying to obtain on the sync tool! There cant be. think of it this way.......they are rated for 26mm carbs all the way to a 41mm carb. Those flow different amounts......all it is made to do is get your carbs running exactly the same so your not feeding one cylinder with more air/fuel than another. whenever you adjust anything on any carb you should always at least blip the throttle before you take any measurments (to clear the carbs). The slides move up and down changing the amount of vacuum coming through the venturi in the carb......as the air is drawn in it sucks the fuel from the carb and mixes it in mid flight... there is an air screw and also slides and needle positions and jets that are all inside of a carb......even though they are supposed to be the same they can be off by JUST a tiny little bit......hell.....ask the guys on here......there's not a damn banshee motor out there that is an exact match to another one...

wow.....2 different comments there..... "anyone have any input on these guys?" followed by "can't believ you guys in st louis didn't chine in"................maybe no one chimed in cause no one uses them or has any input on them. Hell just cause i live in the motor city doesn't mean i have input on all the car manufacturers....

we need a few more details about your bike. i could take a stab and say it sounds like it could be that your carbs are going out of sync...... you gotta give us a more detailed description of what its doing along with a more detailed dscription of your bike. i mean shit you could be jetted super rich or your carbs outta sync, or your reeds are wrong, or your pipes could be the problem......shit there's alot of different things that it could be....

i get what your saying......but in reality its about the carbs being matched to each other. You set the idle and then you sync them. this is so that they are both flowing the same amount of fuel and same amount of air at the same time. the guy that showed cranking down the tops of the carbs was adjusting the slides inside of the carbs via the cable nuts that are on the top of the carbs....if you don't adjust the slides (which is what restricts the air) then how are you supposed to get a reading on the sync tool? haha.....your meausing the flow of air into the carb and matching it so that both slides and air screws are adjusted so that they both match exactly with how they are sucking air...

it starts with the gut.....its the easiest way to get rid of weight while saving money.....shit just cut a meal out and you'll be saving money that way.

its simple....you remove the air filter first. then you start the bike and take the tool and hold it to the intake horn of the carb and put slight pressure on it to seal the carb with the tool forcign the air to be sucked in through the tool. it will raise a needle and give you a reading of a certain number. There isn't a specific number that you are looking for.....what you are looking for is to "sync" the carbs....to make sure both carbs are sucking the same amount of air...which is done by tuning the carbs so that the tool reads the same number for both carbs. there are videos on youtube about how to tune the banshees...

hey buddy....get better quick...hospital suck. but hopefully you have some nice lookin nurses and a wife that won't kill you if the nurses come in smiling hahaha. watch out for the older nasty ones....they're the ones that know you wont be able to run fast enough to get away. hope your ridin hard and fast soon matt.

people on here rave about the g-force axle...

low octane fuel + 2stroke oil (doesnt matter what kind) = KABOOM! hell even the owners manual for the banshees tell you to run like 91 octane minimum. But seriously....your going to blow it up from detonation. and proof or gtfo

check your timing plate again......try and readjust it to 0* timing and try and start your bike. if you do have good strong spark, and fuel (actually making it through your carbs to cylinders.....sure your fuels on? seen it before...) and oxygen is the other. if you have all those then you should fire.....put it back to 0*, turn your gas on and kick.....make sure your choke tube is still good and your carb floats aren't hung up....and if all else fails then try a SMALL bit of starting fluid..... then report back.

ive also seen these symptoms on bikes that have lost the cross-over tube between the carbs.......they will run.....they're just a living bitch to get started and keep running.

because it was meant to be decent geometry for a yfz. not a banshee. They will fit.....but they weren't designed for it....so they WILL tear other things....just call or talk to matt.....he's our suspension sponsor on here. you can easily change things around with his help AND it will be the a setup that is good for a banshee....

okay.....try the search button next time......we cover this about 1-2 times a week......just getting frustrated. you wanna know what the best mod is for the price? porting. Porting about $300-$400 if you don't need a rebuild Timing advance - Free if you know how to read and can look in the mods section....there's a sticky Cool head - $100-300 depending if new and w or w/o domes.......it can help make power but you may wind up having to buy race gas depending on dome size you choose Reeds -$30-300... only help with throttle response really..... Shocks - don't help with power but you can't use the power if you can't hand the bumps Carbs - why carbs? your stockers will handle up to 70 hp.....and if your askign what mods will have more power then you don't have anywhere near the power....

hey frank.....this might sound odd....but just humor me.....you've changed alot of stuff on your bike over the winter that have to deal with air/fuel. Were the pro circuits always what you ruan or are they different than the ones you used to have on your bike. ALSO......running pipes you should increase your pilot jet size up to help handle the larger required amount of fuel at low-end. you might just be restricting it so much that its cutting out a cylinder. AND its a VERY cheap fix if it is the problem...

2 ounces per gallon? isn't that running 64:1? that's pretty lean......im starting to wonder if you've toasted a set of rings.... since you've already cleaned the carbs.....i'd do a compression test and also a leak-down test before you start tearing the head off to look at your pistons and rings...

believe it or not i've ACTUALLY had to use it.....had to use my kit to put the pod filters back on my buddies banshee when one fell off on the trail. yeah....it works less than idea.....BUT.....it works...

that was one hell of a jump from a 180 to a 140 especially being at sea level. i wonder if he did a leak-down on it. and i wonder if he chamfered the ports when/if he bored it. could be a number of things......just make sure that you stay on him about WHY it popped like that. i'd see if he'd be willing to repair it under a warranty on his work....and if he does/if he doesn't i'd still ask for my old parts back. here in michigan if you ask they must supply you with old parts unless too big to transport or if they are being sent back for manufacturer warranty research. if you get back the parts you can REALLY see all the damage and maybe we coudl help you out figuring what went wrong by the pics...

yes there is.....it should be a little black plastic like material that contains 2 open end wrenchs, a spark plug wrench, a screwdriver that flips the shaft to change from flat to phillips, a small pair of pliers and also a low pressure air guage.

how cold was it? it could be just as simple as the tranny fluid was cold and if it is a thicker oil then it's going to grap ALOT harder.....causing it to stall your bike sometimes. it could also be that the clutch has not been rolled over into the fluid recently so it could be that your clutch is dry and it was too dry until you get more fluid up on it....

Welcome to the BHQ LS3...... yes you can go to +4 on just pump gas. and yes you run the same on the cool head or milled head. The difference in the heads is that the milled head (stock head that has been shaved down) will increase compression but once its shaved....its shaved for good. With a cool-head you can purchase different combustion domes (with difference cc's) and you can change them out whenever you want. so if you wanted to run higher compression (for more power which also would require more octane in your motor) you could pull your head real quick and change your domes. The next day you want to run just high octane pump fuel? just pull your head real quick again and put the larger cc sized domes in to allow you to run just high pump fuel... for the most part the appearance of the graphics has stayed the same. There are different aftermarket sticker kits out there that you can also purchase. And honestly if your looking for all new original graphics....then you're gonna be shocked when you see the price......it'll set you back a few hundred bucks.... yea....its a rip off to get the stock graphics...

go into the jetting section on the forum and there is a sticky thread posted on the top that has an elevation finder....