Jereme6655

well that can be a good thing.....as far as knowing its not a damaged cylinder. did you use a flywheel puller specific for atv's? if you use a jaw-style puller it will actually bend the flywheel and really screw things up. pull your cover and check things out. im believing that it either sheared the key or may have spun the retaining nut off. you should be using loctite on the nut and should be torquing it to 80ft/lbs. you can put it on with an impact also. do not use anything to stick in the wholes of it to try to hold it in place.....put the bike in 6th gear and hold the brakes.....or you can also take a penny and stick it in the gears to hold it from turning...

the best thing to do is to give one of our site sponsors a call.....they are banshee gods. i have personally dealt with jeff at F.A.S.T. (farmandsandtoys.com) and he is an awsome guy......GREAT guy to deal with. i also have heard that kevin at herr jugs is really good as well. Talk to them and explain to them what you want the bike to do. if money isn't an issue i would suggest gettings a +4mil crank and a serval cylinder setup and larger carbs. it will still run on pump gas and if setup correctly can achieve almost 85 hp while still retaining a good powerband throughout any throttle position. or you could go with a little less power and get a +4mil crank and have your current cylinders ported to the +4 crank which should net around 70hp. if that's still more than you want (money or power) then you can get your crank trued/welded and get a play/dune port and you should be able to hit around the 60-62hp range.

did you take the carbs apart at the same time? it is possible to put the wrong slides backwards in the opposite carbs.....and it is also possible to put the wrong carb bowls on the wrong carbs. pull the air filter and look at the slides......the half moon cut out should be visible from the backside of the bike (air filter side of motor) also look at the bows.....the carb bowl are side specific. the carb bowl that has a brass ball on it should be on the choke side carb. if you managed to flood it then you can take the pipes off and pour the fuel out of the pipes. then kick it over with the ignition turned off to get any extra out of the engine cases...... then report back...

post up some pictures and we may be able to help you figure out how things can go back together. and buy yourself a CLYMERS manual for it.....its like the banshee bible.....

other than changing from the j-arm design on the 87-89.5 bikes they have pretty much stayed the same.....the brake calipers and pads changed that same time also. other than that the only thing i can think of off the top of my head is that some of the electrical connectors on the early bikes are different. same parts just different connections. and of course the added break light setup on the later models...

some people like longer swingers so that they can get into the power harder and worry less about the front end coming up on them. however depending how much you extend you may run into issues with turning or trail riding. Others like to use a shorter swingarm....they say it handles better as long as you know when to back out of the throttle before its too far over to recover. they actually INCREASE traction......where a longer swinger will actually give you slightly less traction.... its honestly nothing but personal preference.

no....just buy one.....they're lik $25 and you can take them with you when you go wheeling and leave them with your gear. shit hits the fan and half the time with the manual you can fix it back at your rig and continue riding...

you really don't have that much of a different bike than him. you've got a boost bottle which should be thrown out.......reeds which only help throttle response.....and your timing advance which helps you gain a little down low but takes away from your top end. other than that.....from what you listed....your running the same bike.

welcome to the bhq buddy......don't worry about being an asphalt guy....we'll still treat you the same.....hell as long as you love riding and you get semi turned on when you hear the sound of a piped 350 2stroke then your on the right site!

also if you go to see it and possibly test ride it make sure to ask him to not start it before you get there.......you want to see how hard it is to start from completely cold. make sure that the has followed your askings by feeling the pipes and the cylinders......you'll be able to feel latent heat if he has warmed it up so that it will start easier...

its more of a precaution. alot of people have had problems with banshee cranks because they are pressed together cranks.....so they have been known to either seperate or twist out of phase. if you send it out to a sponsor they can tig weld it and true it to make sure that it is still where it needs to be and help prevent it from seperating in the future. Adding power to a banshee is what can cause the cranks to seperate although some have even seen the crank seperate with stock bikes....

hit up a site sponsor.....they'll take good care of you. hell for free that is NOT bad......id expect it to be locked up and have the frame folded over on itself for free hahaha...

you will need to bump up your compression with either shaving a head or getting a cool head......this is because the port timings have been modified which effects compression (lowering slightly) so you need to up your compression to get it back to a hard running point. also i'd suggest that if you do get these cylinders.....to get your crank trued and welded from a sponsor.....

it is also bad to keep running when your that far off because it is an indication that something is wrong internally.....so if you keep running that way on it you could possible burn it up or even worse scar your cylinders....

there isn't a fuel filter that has been added to your machine is there?

depending if its got power adders and if the frame is straight.....then id say ya....

wanker....

how about some sprockets too so that you can change out the gear ratios depending on the terrain your gonna be riding and tire size. all i gotta say is DAMN man.......customs is gonna LOVE rootin through your bags....

not trying to degrade your intelligence.....just want to make sure......have you tried bleeding the brakes? if so how are you doing it......your procedure? This way if we catch something off we may be able to help out....

anti-seize and an big assortment of jets (main and pilot) a seal kit a gasket kit for a top end compression guage carb sync tool

toytech is right.....jeff is a great guy and super easy to talk with about your build.........give him a shout back and he will defiantely give you some insite on what you should do.

The banshee transmission is less than ideal. In face its no where near perfect in its stock form. They are difficult (somewhat) to shift gears compared to other quads. And yes....neutral is a real challenge to find.......its just how they are. You can do the shift star mod (which is on the forum here) where you pull the star off and grind the edges to a smaller less sharp point (dont do it to neutral)....it will allow the shift star to rotate the shift arm easier over it......i did it to my bike and it works really well...

you are WAY lean. the instant you add a performance pipe you should be jumping that main jet 5-8 sizes....making it around a 250-280 (stock size is 200) plus your flowing a little bit more air through that air box.....so you may be needing a little more fuel there.... there is absolutely NO WAY that your are running rich with a 230 main, pc pipes, and a mild-modded airbox at 1300 ft

whoa.....check that out boys....he can actually be understood. look kid....mots of the people here have already passed childhood and the "thinking they're cool stage." Hell most of the guys id guess are early-mid thirties adn older......so trying to act like a 13 year old that's talking like some jersey shore wanna be chump isn't gonna go over good. just lettin ya know.

okay.....running a 2stroke out of oil is a bad thing for 2 reasons...... reason 1) your running your shit out of the fuel/OIL mix. The fuel is the only thing that keeps the psitons lubricated in the cylinders and when you take away that lubrication your going to start ruining metal parts and cylinder bores. reason 2) when you run a 2stroke motor out of fuel its kinda odd....but it actually runs the chance of "free-reving" itself. its a wierd thing but when they get low on fuel and begin to get lean on the amount of fuel going into them they will rev themselves to the moon without any input from the throttle. At this point you need to think about reason #1........its a viscious cycle to put a 2stroke through...