Jereme6655

so anyone think he actually got it back together right and is havin fun with it........or are we takin bets that he never put a filter on it and he's pulling his hair out now cause it wont kick start again.......

there is an o-ring in there.....i'd pull the joint off and check to ensure that the o-ring isn't damaged. Then if it IS leaking from the cap screws.....then yes....go ahead and put a little rtv or whatnot on the threads of the screws. I've never seen the threads leak, but I do know there is a chance as the threaded hole does crash into the water jacket....

also.....it welded because of the design AND your riding habits. They have a habit of welding if you like to slowdown while continually holding the clutch in.....a pancake bearing will eliminate that problem.

hell yea it is was tricked......pretty sweet how he had it all plumbed in so it was drinking from that too....and if I remember right, it as actually gravity feeding his stock tank. What ever happened to Bigred?

While sleeves have been around forever in the iron that KnN is talking about......nikasil has been around a long time too. Snowmobiles come with nikasil bores. Some dirtbikes I've seen are niked. It is much stronger and does wear WAY WAY WAY less than iron bore sleeves. It IS way more of a cost to have a nikasil bore replaced if you damage it. You can melt your pistons down and use a specific acid to wipe off the melted on aluminum piston. HOWEVER do not think that you cannot hurt nikasil.......it has happened....usually it takes something serious though, such as a connecting rod snapping and shoving into the bore. an example of how nikasil bores wear rates? My 97 Yamaha 500cc twin cylinder snowmobile has 8300 miles on it on the stock bore, stock pistons. It has NEVER been opened up and never played with. And I STILL see no time in the near future of having to open the motor up.....

ill be out there. I highly doubt Ill have my bike as I packed it away in the garage up north..........but im definitely down for going out there and even just hangin out. Yes tricked....the majority of it is drag. Last time I was out there the guy was still setting up the drag strip lights and the print out for your track stats. I don't recall too many people circle track racing......probably because no one ever plowed a track.

what are you trying to do with this new stator is the real question. Why do you need a high output?

tell your buddy to take it easy on it. Especially with a stock tranny in a 10mil...........you can only push something so hard once its been pushed beyond what it was engineered for. Its either you have to build it RIGHT and look at things like the transmission, or you need to take it real easy on things that were never modified for the huge amounts of extra power your bike now makes.

Like tricked said....those pistons look like they are a little lean. A little more carbon all over the top of the piston is what is preferred. Also....you may be happy to know...that those look like stock cylinders. As in stock bore. Just a stock head gasket is going to be the best one your going to find at sealing it up. I've ALWAYS taken head gaskets and reed gaskets and used the copper spray to help them adhere and seal up any small small imperfections. For things such as clutch gaskets I've always rubbed them with a light layer of grease to help them just pop right off when disassembling them. Side note....if you wind up torqueing down the head on the gasket and NOT firing the bike....it is okay to remove the head gasket and then reinstall it. HOWEVER....the instant that you fire the motor......you MUST replace the head gasket if you wind up having to pull the head again.

actually dutchy.....65.25 is the next step up in piston size that is available......but it all comes down to what the bore mic shows.....if its too egg shaped its gonna have to be bored out bigger.

Im not bashing you in any way shape or form......just letting you know....that if your skin isn't thick enough to handle the comment about the 2 post later thing........you may want to just run right now. haha. Yes, this forum knows the ins and outs of these bikes.......however we are not the nicest people around. Most of the time we are just poking fun at each other. Sometimes you may see us as giving you shit completely.....but we are trying to help you and having some fun. But about this guy that builds "big bore" banshee's.........NO OFFENSE TO HIM....but we don't know who he is unless you tell us. You can tell us up and down that he knows his stuff......but does he? Ever heard of TRINITY? Everyone that does not have a banshee believes that Trinity knows everything and that their shit doesn't stink........reality? They build banshee cylinders and heads SO FUCKED UP....that the motor will literally rattle itself to death. AND after this site and our sponsors found the problems...and came up with the solutions, AND informed Trinity....what'd they do? Kept producing motors that blow themselves up.......This is why you shouldn't really trust too many with these bikes......hell just listen to the stories of guys on here taking their bikes to the dealer and the shit that the mechanics did to them. At least let us know who your "guy" is.....at least if they're anything with a banshee we will have heard of them.....

whoa whoa whoa.....we never said your stator is junk after it gets water trapped inside..... Test your stator and if it still checks out okay.....clean that thing up and put some dielectric grease on the ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR and try it out.

if you want to ride your bike for a year before you rip it down and have it rebuilt....that's fine. Just before you get out there and run it hard I would suggest doing a few things... 1) a compression test......you never know where your motor is unless you check....and unless you pull the head you'd never have any idea that it may already have a shaved head without looking at compression numbers. 2) a leakdown test.....build this tool....it will literally save your motors life and save you sanity....not to mention it will cost about $12 to build the tool that you will use EVERY time you pull any internal gasket/seal out. 3) Pull your jets out and let us know what mainjet # and what pilot jet # your bike has in it. Then we can give you a close idea where you should be.....then you can go do a plug chop and dial the bike in......however since its now becoming winter....I would NOT just skip right to doing the plug chop like most new guys will think is perfectly fine. Remember....its a 2 stroke....when you starve it for fuel....your also starving it for oil.....and when the temp drops, your main jet sizes need to increase to provide more fuel and oil....

Ok.....because your a new guy who obviously is in love with having a 2 stroke.......I am going to take it easy on you. BUT YOU NEED TO SLOW DOWN.......we can see with your typing/dialogue on here that your overly excited and just want this bike to run great. BUT.....its not going to run great unless you take the time and listen to us AND go ahead and do ALOT of research on here. This site isn't the typical joe blow forum where you might get an answer and usually its wrong..... This site is literally full of guys who have the knowledge to diagnose your problem down to a specific part that isn't working in conjunction with the rest of your setup......and more than 95% of the time, they are right. So.....sit down....stop panicing a start reading up on what these guys are talking about. And don't worry if you hear that word REBUILD.....your coming from the 4 stroke rip off world.....here in the 2 stroke world we can rebuild the entire top end, including boring, honing, pistons, and gaskets for just under $300. Pretty incredible for a twin cylinder machine....

backing the plugs out of the heads is a symptom of detonation..... You either need to figure out why you are detonating (too much timing, not enough octane, low quality fuel, etc.) or switch to alky (requires some serious different changes to setup) Can you also elaborate and break down what your saying about shifting? I THINK your saying that you can launch in second gear, and sometimes get it to shift into 3rd but after that is when you run into detonation issues. It also could be caused by your squish tolerances (your plug gaps closing) being too tight. Either ways....id find your problem before you ride that thing again so you don't destroy the crank the cylinders and the pistons....

yes....320 is too big. id say at 1000' above sea level with pipes, filters and timing (which shouldn't effect jetting) you should be in the realm of 270-280 mains and 27.5 pilot jets for around 70*. for every drop of 20-25*....it is recommended to go up by one main jet size.

Also....when these bikes do "run away".... instead of wasting time to try and remove filters and then snuffing the air horns to choke the bike to death........95% of the time they can be brought back down to normal by pulling the choke out and chopping at the throttle a few times. They're revving because they aren't getting enough fuel.....if you pull the choke (or actually the fuel enrichment circuit) you are giving it more fuel....and a few stabs at the throttle will usually dump enough fuel to choke it back to safe idle rpms to kedp from grenading itself.

Before that happens.....how full are you filling your radiator? The banshee will spit out about an inch of radiator fluid out of the top of the radiator. Also a leakdown tester will find the coolant leak that is existing IF it is bleeding compression into the water jackets. It could also be the stock water pump that is screwed on your bike....as they are known to be the downfall of the banshee cooling system. Upgrading to a billet water pump and also upgrading to the mull metal water pump gear is a DEFINATE good upgrade.

its like running a 2 stroke weed whip.......ever notice that when they start to run the gas tank empty they seem to rev harder and run like a raped ape? Its a 2 stroke death run...... They WILL infact run better, run faster, run stronger, when they are under jetted. Question you gotta ask yourself......"do I want this thing to run hard and have a reliable bike.....or do I want to run it past the ragged edge and be stuck 10 miles from home with a boat anchor that is gonna cost AT MINIMUM $300 evertime I run it...." That my good buddy is the determining factor. We are all trying to steer you to having a bike that will put a smile on your face......not a bike that will frustrate you time and time again that will cause you to start bashing our beloved machines.

it sounds exactly like an air leak. It could also be a jetting issue. Build yourself a leakdown tester. The carb cleaner trick does not work for the 2 stroke motor nearly as well as the leakdown tester. When 2 strokes run lean, they will either rev by themselves, or they will "rev hang".....where they will not idle down when you rev the motor up. This is caused either by an air leak (usually) or off jetting. With you saying that you just did all that work and especially saying that AFTER 1/4 throttle the installation of vf4's (which have been shown to require a pilot jet increase) tells me that your running lean on your pilot. You say your at 27.5 which would work good for aftermarket pipes, however without the jumping another size on the pilot it will kill one cylinder at idle speeds.

do a leakdown test, a compression test, and then swap the plug wires. Also i'd suggest pulling your stator cover off and checking to see if there is any water in there. And im slightly confused.....if you say your bike is completely stock, except for timing, and pipes and filters......why do you have a "porter?"

Like some of the other guys have said.....it sounds as if you need a top end rebuild. Your compression should be in the realm of 125psi per cylinder on a fresh rebuild.....at about 110 I where you start having problems kick starting them. Yes you can still bump start a bike that is that low....main reason being because you can gain that much more rotational force and speed. My suggestion to you is to get yourself a Clymers manual and do lots of research on here....maybe even see if you can find someone near you that is on here that wouldn't mind giving a hand...

/\x2...... Also a thorough scrubbing and modifications if the riders experience and pocket book warrant it....

Changing out domes should not require a jetting change. However......who's to say what has been done to your bike has been properly jetted for. Run the tests first, then if she passes and things seem okay then go and clean your carbs and also check your jet size and report back.

What 360 is talking about, is a metal bushing that will drop into your slightly larger hole and make it the correct sized hole for the bolt to drop into.