Jereme6655

Yup. I definitely had some grammar errors there.......that and my phone was auto correcting things again. Lol

Okay. We can tell you're a little green. Remember to always change one thing at a time. It will keep you less stressed. Also.....I can tell you right now from the way you described your jets....(if they really are what you posted) that you are running it lean. The 2.5 is actually a 25 pilit jet. Which is stock. The 200 you posted is are 200 main jets.... also stock. Anytime you put performance parts on a 2 stroke.... Especially banshees... You must account for the extra fuel that is needed via jetting. My guess you should be closer to a 27.5 pilot and roughly 260 or 270 main jets depending on your altitude and the temp. Go to the jetting forum here and look up plug chops. And also read up on how temp and elevation effect jetting. Also since you're new to banshees..... Look between your carbs, there should be a black vacuum time between them. That is what applies choke to both cylinders since only one had the choke knob. When doing compression checks, you need to hold the throttle wide open (with key off) and kick hard until the needle stops moving. Also the quick revving part could be attributed to two things, first it's a 2 stroke........ These motors are high revving high strung things. Second..... If it is running lean based on jetting.... It can make the fast rev symptom worse. Get a climber manual and don't be intimidated to ask questions...... We all started exactly where you currently are. There is no such thing as a stupid question...... Only blown up motors because of stupid pride.....

Also.....did the carbs get put back together right? They are different from right to left. And also.......any reason you're running 290s for mains? Those seem REALLY fat if you're running a almost stock bike.....

Make sure the choke tube is still between the carbs. If there's no time connecting then together, you can kick and kick until you're blue in the face.

Ayesully810....where in gladwin are they? My in-laws have a place on 30 over near the springs. My only complaint is there's not much to ride over there!

Come on guys....keep it simple. He's already stated he's new to banshees and these things are a little different..... Have you looked between your carbs yet? There should be a small black tube that connects both the carbs together. This is your "choke tube".....without it in place, the banshee will be VERY tough to get to start.

You check to make sure the choke tube made it back in between the carbs when you pulled the frame down to work on it? All grounds good?

Remember.....now more than 6psi!!! Or else you start doing more bad than good. Also soapy water in a spray bottle will help you find leaks if your pressure isn't holding. You ideally (if I remember correctly) want to see no ore than 1psi drop per minute. Obviously its better if it holds for a long time.

Banshees live and die based on proper jetting. When the temp changes different jets are needed (depending on how much of a change in temperature there is) to keep the bike running correctly. Think of it this way...... an engine wants 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio (this is not your fuel/oil mix). That being said imagine your engine this way.....it wants 14.7 basket balls of air to swallow for every basket ball of fuel it swallows. Now when it gets cold there are MORE air molecules per basket ball of air......which requires you to add more fuel to compensate. REMEMBER......your motor is lubed using the oil that is carried in your fuel! So if your not giving it the appropriate amount of fuel.....its not getting the appropriate amount of oil either......this results in an engine running very hot and melting the pistons. MOST PEOPLE DO NOT JET THEIR BIKES TO RUN IN -1* TEMPERATURES! So put your bike away and dont screw with it until its warmer out.....like spring time. And remember for the future......a 2stroke WILL do a "death run" meaning it will run harder and stronger moments before it blows itself up.....its just their nature. So after you get used to how it runs......if for some reason it seems to suddenly greatly gain power out on a trail watch your ass.....or pack good shoes to walk back in.

Order a new cable from a site sponsor.....then lube your cable. Then install said cable. Then put your purse down sally. Man up....its a quad....you're not trying to move the empire state building with your thumb......its two tiny little carbs. If it hurts that bad then god forbid what kind of men we are going to be pro-creating to run this world when we are gone........rant over.

no man.....totally different. you have to move the bike at least by hand to get ALL the gears to engage. otherwise you can ususally just get first, neutral and 2nd......sometimes it will hop into third without moving. but if you rotate the rear tires (by just pushing the bike forward and backwards) it will allow the gears to move just enough to all them to pop into all gears. on a side note.....why are you trying to run it through all 6 gears while the engine is off and still in the frame?

14 going on 30. He must think he knows his shit.......and I bet he gets a real eye opener when he realizes the amount of info some know. Too bad.....cause if he keeps opening his mouth like that all of us with info are just gonna shut our mouths.....

tricked......you got any big races comin up this winter?

this shit just got real interesting.

well.....when your playing with the mix ratio......you're either running more fuel and less oil or more oil and less fuel......it can play a difference....HOWEVER....unless you're into drag racing and excessive tuning, you're never going to notice. Also....carb seals don't just seal up after riding. If you put it together and its leaking...its because you did it wrong. It's fubar. Take it apart again and clean it very well, followed by putting it back together......all while in a CLEAN environment.

where did he say they where nikasil jugs?

This is key......most don't realize it but there ARE differences in the same size pistons.......why do you think builders often bore/hone cylinders and send you the pistons marked RIGHT/LEFT. That is because they are bored specifically to the size that they measured the piston at.

ill say it this way......if you truly are running 65 and 67psi you would not be able to start it. You DEFINATELY would not be able to kick start it......it MIGHT start if you dragged it for about a mile behind a truck around 40mph haha. but in all honesty. harbor freight compression tester is JUNK.....do your neighbor a favor and throw it away FOR HIM..... and you also need to hold the throttle wide open and kick and kick and kick until the gauge stops climbing.....but you have to have a decent gauge to begin with....

depending on the pipe, elevation, and temp combo.....you'd be looking more like a 280-290s area. If it really is ported.....well then you're gonna need more on top of that. Not to mention that when running aftermarket pipes, most require a 27.5 pilot jet to keep it running correctly on the low end of the rev range. hell Im running a dune/play port from jeff at FAST with fmf fatties, pod filters, and 20cc domes and im running, 27.5 pilots and 340 main jets.

If you plan on ever building your bike up.......buy the delete kit. If you plan on leaving it exactly how it is, then unplugging them will work. The gain that you get from removing them, is the ability to actually have room to work on your bike. It makes tear down about 1000x easier without those big bulky nasty boxes up there. Also.....when it comes to plug chops and having to change your jetting, you'll thank the fact of having the delete kit.

i would also suggest putting some 2stroke oil or fogging oil down the cylinders before you go rolling over the motor.....just to make sure it has some lube on the pistons before you start kicking the hell out of it trying to start it.

It's true......ohio might as well be the butthole of 'Merica.....

However earlier it was mentioned to pay up a little more and get the brand new Hot Rods crank........way better idea. No offense to kevin....but we have heard of more than a "few" of the cranks that he builds fail....and fail terribly. Mainly I believe it has been conceived that he is using weaker connecting rods, and they are failing hard. Call Jeff at fast.....one hell of a stand up guy!

does your bike still have the TORS or the parking brake still on it? Are you sure you had the key and the kill switch in the on position when you were checking for spark (not saying anything bad but ive seen people do some dumb shit when they realize their bike isn't working correctly) Have you accounted for the colder weather in your jetting? May want to think about that (if you haven't) before you melt your pistons. Stock carbs? Have you made sure that the choke tube is still installed between the two carbs? check and report back.

try this......ride your bike to your truck.....then shut off the engine.....THEN turn off your fuel valve.......and turn it on after you have unloaded it. Reason I say this is we have a sled up north that is built up a lot more than the average sled........BUT if you trailer it or even put it up on its lift bar to keep the track off the ground.....it will flood the cylinders so bad that we have to pull the plugs and rotate the motor to get the excess gas out in order to get it to fire. After that its back to normal.