Jereme6655

Tyler…..you say “cheap”? Where the fuck have you seen cheap parts that HE sells??? BAHAHAHAHAHA

He STILL playing stupid games? I figured ole rattle can woulda been forced out of business years ago!!!!!

1) loco is right…you WILL hurt that motor if you keep running stock jetting. 2) tell us WHY you think it’s loading up? Okay….now I’m NOT trying to be an ass…..did YOU build the bike? you said the floats “seem” to be fine??? Did you measure and set them correctly? I knew a guy who said his floats were fine….but because of past issues with other bikes, he would turn off the petcock whenever he shut the bike off…..he had no clue his floats were flooding his engine…but it was in fact getting too much fuel when running, just not showing NORMAL signs…. violent powerbands are usually from built up motors, previously owned shitty running motors, or lean jetting. Again no offense….but you say you’re “very well versed in banshees”……but your commenting is more on the “new” to these machines kinda side……

You can also cut your air box, leaving the rear frame mounting tabs and the reservoir mounting location….

Pretty sure he’s talking about the main cap…. To pull the slides out…..

Start with a compression check. Low compression will not kick start but WILL pull start. pull plugs, ignition off, hold throttle wide open and kick until the gauge stops climbing. I bet you’re around 90psi. You can also throw in a teaspoon of oil AFTER your initial readings and more than likely it will jump the compression by using the oil as a seal around the rings. I’ve seen this exact problem on a cr125. report back after you get your readings….

Any updates on this? What about doing a cooling system pressure test? Makes me wonder if some how a gasket is allowing coolant in, but flapping shut and sealing enough to fake a leak down test…

Definitely not normal. Depending on if there is metal protruding from the dome, it can actually cause a hot spot creating detonation.

1lb loss per minute is acceptable. Obviously try for less, but perfectly fine with that loss.

Anything plugging the pipes or spark arresters?

Okay..... Jumping from 200 to 290 jetting is a hell of a jump unless you did anything else to the bike. So let's start like this..... What is done to your bike? What's your elevation and temp? What is your current jetting/carb settings? So there is a jetting forum which can usually get more info from more reliable people. Not saying you won't get reliable info in this section, but sometimes the more experienced will only look in specific sections.

Did you have any performance with done to it when you had the top end rebuilt? What does the sound, sound like? I only ask because one of the great sponsors on here once told me after porting my cylinders and sending me different domes, to listen carefully to the exhaust sounds. He said if it's running too lean and starting to detonate, it will sound like sand being blasted onto the side of the pipes

Just color the end of your crank with a fat sharpie. It leaves color just like you want, is easier than bluing it lay out die to find, and almost everyone has it around their house. Sharpie, then lap with lapping compound, wipe carefully to see where sharpie still is and continue until 90% of sharpie gets removed during lapping. Then just clean the stuff all good..... While these are high strung motors that are incredible....... They are a far cry from a NASA space shuttle...... They will take some abuse from "not so perfect engine builders"

Won't kick start but it will push start.........do a compression test! My guess is your running real low. Last time I've seen a 2 stroke that will only push start was when it was down to 90psi compression......it would run, but only start by being pushed. You ideally want to see 120 or more depending on a few things with your motor and elevation. Also you want both cylinders to be within 10% of each other in terms of compression.

Jeff and his guys at FAST are definitely running a great business. Super knowledgeable and willing to get you what you want. I've sent my motor to Jeff and got back exactly what I was looking for in terms of porting, and also built a 421 shall motor for a friend that was purchased through him. Great company. You can also just call and give them your info and they will ship your parts

Just trying to think outside the box zilla..... Just wondering if we've all been looking one direction while there may be a different direction to look.

Zilla....I totally agree with the search....I looked. Didn't really find many answers to using it without a battery. And my question more so is about the rectifier being not connected to stator but to the wiring harness (guess I forgot to mention that). If a rectifier requires 4 wires (ac+, chassis ground, DC+, and DC-) then why could I not just run the rectifier off of the exhisting lighting harness to only change over the headlight circuit to a DC voltage? Just a thought....

Would actually like to NOT carry a battery. Just looking to run the lights when the bike is running. I do understand that they may flicker some at idle.....sleds do this too.......but honestly I don't hang out in the dark trying to run my banshee to light stuff up lol. I'm a trail guy.....so if my bikes running, it's not just sitting.

Hey guys....got to thinking about upgrading to LEDs up front. I know the banshee runs ac current. And I know LEDs run DC. My question is why do we have to float the ground in order to convert the power? Why won't just running a rectifier to convert the signal work? I only ask because that's how snowmobiles are. My sled runs ac current but is rectified to get it to output DC power to any accessories and the lighting circuit. Has anyone tried just running a rectifier?

Okay gotcha. Now that I know you're some some sissy......I think it's a combo of two issues. First....I think you may need some adjustments to your carbs. They can be finiky and a pain some times but I think that is most of your problem. Second.... It's a 2 stroke... They take some R's to get to move without getting too low in the rpm to keep from bogging. Get those carbs right and stick your thumb in her! One other thing....I don't know where you're testing your bike.... But if it's on concrete then that is also compounding your problem. It givesb such great traction that it's actually a pain in the ass.

So I've noticed from a few descriptions you've given and also a few comments.......and this is a serious question....I am in no way busting your balls or anything. .... Have you ever ridden a 2 stroke before??? Like I said. Not busting your balls. I've had two people who have had me check out their bikes because they had really bad "bogging issues"...... Needless to say they were perfectly fine.... They were just guys who had only ever ridden 4 stroke quads. Watching them scratch their heads when I took off for a test ride just fine was funny. Poor dudes looked like they were learning to drive a stick for the first time haha

As far as sync goes..... It's honestly up to the mechanics tools (if he has the meter) to set it up right. There instant you modify a wheeler you can't 100% trust any dealer mechanic as they're doing what manuals tell them.... Not what the aftermarket product companies suggest....

Driveline performance sells a "stealth style" lockup that utilize ball bearings for weight that fits under stock covers. They say it's good for trail bikes all the way to drag bikes. Check them out.

So when you're doing your leakdown test...... Are you plugging the intake boots with PVC or just trying to pinch it shut? I'm pretty sure I'm just misinterpreting how you're saying you did it. Either way..... Your only supposed to pressurize the engine up to 6psi. You're looking to see that it holds air and doesn't leak out at a greater rate than 1psi per minute. Personally the thought of having a leak that size is spooky to me. So even if it does pass the 1psi per minute leak rate......I still go back and try for better. My dune/play port motor that Jeff from F.A.S.T. racing ported, held 6psi for over 20 minutes after I got it reassembled.

And also...I was trying to say "choke tube"...... There should be a small choke tube between your carbs