Jereme6655

the TORS brain is a little black box located under the fuel tank on the left side of the bike. if you disconnect the brain it will disable the system to act as if there is no throttle safeties.

the 392 athena kit isn't prefered by alot of guys that have tried it before. alot of the guys come back saying the same thing.....didnt make as much power as they were expecting.... however alot of those guys usually wound up contacting a sponsor and wound up either with a strong port job or a different aftermarket kit from our sponsors and love every minute of them.

There should be NO fluids behind the stator cover.

yes the washer under the main jets along with the splash guard that goes under the main jet are BOTH important!!! the washer keeps the main jet spaced out and the keeps the needle from going down too far in the main jet making it too hard to sync/adjust the carbs. ALSO the leaking that is occuring can be fixed with a rebuild kit for the carbs.....had the same issue. You can get the rebuild kit from FAST for like $14 per carb.

Cold also be that your one carb is set too low on the idle. Could LOOK like its synced up good.....but it may still be off enough to keep the bike from running correctly.

now if you could find an old buggy frame the size of the old Honda Odysee buggies.......could be interesting

haha nice one BigRed....but you forgot the drywall screws and the little star shaped jacks..... shit you imagine tripping something like that and somehow managing to walk away just to see drywall screws, holes from ballbearing and shit all stuck in the walls.......damn.

if want the look then i suggest you look into JDscustoms (one of our site sponsors) and talk to him about getting some aqua-graphics done. If you want hard core speed then you should be calling Jeff at FAST or Kevin at HJR......both also sponsors and do amazing work. The pipes you have on your bike though should be thrown out and replaced........the T6 pipe was intended for non-modified motors......so its almost hurting you.....

could have been the problem.......why didn't you just kick it over to SEE if it was the problem?

thest place to start buiding this "monster" as you call it is in the dumpster. no offense to you. but we have seen quite a few banshee framed sport bike motor builds.....they all turn out to be hacked up dog terds. and from what we've seen its a matter of $4000 in total parts and every boner out there that has one wants $6-7k for them. and they run like junk. honestly there are a few guys on this website that have gone up against a few 600cc sport bike motors in dune drag bikes......and have beaten them pretty bad. Honestly your best choice is going to be to just either take the hit on selling that motor for less than you wanted (hey...its still something....) and doing something else with the money.

ery 3 to 4 kicks? Wow....that seems a little low on the amount of spark. Do you have the TORS units still on your carbs? If so i wonder if its limiting the motor by cutting down the spark. IF you have the TORS units still (big silver boxy looking things on the tops of the carbs) then look under your fuel tank.......towards the front on the left hand side of the tank you'll see a little black electrical box. Unplug it. It is the brain box of the TORS units and will disable the TORS as soon as its disconnected.

I guess what we need to ask next is have you been through the 3 top ends and 2 cranks because you NEEDED them.....or did you go through them trying to eliminate the tick?

it wont start because you dont have your choke tube in place. go get some tubing and connect those carbs. the tube acts almost like a vacuum advance system.......so when you pull the choke knob out on the left carb it uses vacuum to enable the choke on the other carb.

buy it and install it and set it at +4 Then id suggest getting a aftermarket head and raising your compression.....however its gonna be a good idea to have your crank trued and welded. and welcome to the HQ... this forum isn't like the others.....no need for the *** here. you can say fuck.

it is either the reeds you have are hitting really hard and that' what you are hearing or it could also be coming from your clutch....

okay....little more sentence structure would make it easier for s to read your post. But to answer the aftermarket head question......there are no "head" gaskets......only o-rings that go between the top of the jugs and the head.

for gaskets i used prmatex copper gasket spray. its a copper adhesive type spray that dries on the gaskets and promotes sealing....

fromthe builder that i talked to.....he said it will wake up e mid/bottom end of the bike by a pretty decet amaount. That being said though....if you dont have a welded crank in your bottom end i wouldn't risk the grenading of a motor for a little more down low dig....

check your cable routing......it may be something like a tight throttle cable. other than that it would have to be either a healthy air leak or a hell of an off jet to have it free rev with the choke on....

whever the motor was broke in on is the safest bet......but 32:1 is usually the go to mix. Also your gonna need some 103-110 for that one.......if not your gonna spend a whole lot more money real quick....

yes...you adjust the idle using the idle screws.....it very sligtly raises the slides. did this problem just start happening or was it a problem before you rebuilt the top end? have you cleaned the carbs recently? changed anything else on the bike? modified any part of it?

Minkia38..... Aka rattle can ray

/\ /\ /\ rattle can ray strikes again.....

Your not supposed to tighten the shit out of them......theyre supposed to be just snug..... When you cranked the Shit out of them you may have put a mark in the tapered end of the drain screw causing it to leak ever so slightly

You may be pinching a oring when your putting the head on...