Jereme6655

How about the choke tube?

Because that is how you test automobile radiators and the banshee also has a sized radiator cap that is the same as a few import cars

Want to explain that again? Because you are describing that when you have the bike shut off and put the bike in gear with the clutch out......it won't roll....which is correct. Even if the clutch is pulled in and it's in gear and you can feel it drag does not mean that it is wrong.....a lot of them do that.

What these guys at trying to say is that if your already questioning the integrity of one of your ball joints as you stated earlier......then you have some stuff to buy. Not to mention the 2nd worst feeling while riding (first is when your laying on your ass and the bike it parked in a tree) is trying to ride while your questioning parts. Way better of a ride if you replace the parts in question and let the peace of mind help you with the ride.

Hey jd.....do you go at a certain time or just whenever you feel like it?

Aftermarket pipes.....usually want 27.5's.

It will be very thin when the cases get torqued. The correct way to find an air leak is to do a leak down test. There is a post on here on how to build your own tester....and make sure you do the leak down test!!! Dont waste another engine away because you want to ride today or tomorrow......do shit right and it will run good.

Yes.....check that the flywheel has not sheared the woodruff key and then also pull the flywheel and shake it.....if it rattles then your magnets in the flywheel have broken loose and the flywheel needs replacement. ALSO when you pull the flywheel you need to use a specific puller...not a jaw type puller as it will bend your flywheel. You can get the tool at atv shops or our site sponsors.....the tool is around $13

You got a set of screws that don't fit anywhere that you can find....dosnt mean they are idle screws......idle screws are specialty pieces...not just screws. Throw up a picture of the "screws" that you got and we can tell you what they are

Yes do a conpression test....after a fresh rebuild (depending on elevation) you should be kicking around 120ish psi. Look for things like chain whack, bent sub frames, and the usual wear and tear. Try and get as much info as you can on the bike.....and it WILL be cheaper to go ahead and find a banshee that has pipes and a few mods already. No sense in spending 3x extra buying all the parts new. Also you want to make sure the guy has a title. Put up a few ads that you find online and we can take a look at them

The crankshaft has a tapered end which the flywheel sits on.....IF the woodruff key sheared it is possible for the flywheel to rotate and semi tighten itself back onto the crank causing your timing too be off.

Anyone ever try the half height atv boots???

Larry's right.....there was a member on here that machined his own bung and replaced it so all he had to do was grind the few tack welds off and drop the new bung in and weld it in. Shit actually looked really clean.......can't remember who it was.....maybe one of the other long timers can help us out here.....see if the guy still sells em

Alright ill drop in the 27.5's i got. The air screws are currently at 1.75 out I believe. Thing is I swear it was bogging even with the 27.5's in it.....egh well.....time to keep wrenching.

Hey guys....needing some help here. I've had a low end bog ever since Ive gotten the bike..... It runs HARD up top and pulls perfectly fine in the mid. But when it comes to trying to take off....shit...that's a diffent story. He to either rev it and slowly slip off the clutch (I mean SLOWLY) or it bogs hard and you almost have to pump the throttle to get it to come back. Elevation is 700 01 shee FAST dune/play port .10 over FMF fatties 2-1 foam filter VF 2's Pro design w/ 20cc domes Jetting is at 330 and running a 30 pilot ....stock needle middle clip. The bog has been with the bike ever since I picked I up......however it was horrible t first.....and the guy had the pipes and filter on it with stock jetting....but I'm getting frustrated here. Any help would be appreciated guys....

Also seeing as you said you recently bought the bike.......check the cases all around the shift shaft.....if the chain has broken before it can crack the cases. Or if it doesn't crack the case it could have smacked the shift shaft hard enough to crack the case on the lower side (not the top side like normal)

hey fast......we ride mio alot.....that's where we have a place. lots of different places there you can ride....if you want whooped out trails then there's the tight regular ORV trails. if you want fast trails there are the ORV routes (alot of them use snowmobile trails so they're pretty freaking wide) or you can rock the old back roads which are pretty sweet for haulin ass on.

also have you tried doing a plug chop? only reason i say is because running a 320 is pretty big for a stock motor (depending on your elevation).

you want milk choclate brown.....not light grey. yes i know it makes the most power......however 2strokes tend to make their most power and run stronger than hell AFTER it has been leaned beyond a safe amount

well it seems that you really don't let alot slow you down.....which is a good thing. if you do care to get into it (as im sure the instant you get that bike up on the pipe ) and begin riding there is also a twist grip throttle like dirt bikes that can be bought for the bike. Hell there's even a grip that has BOTH the thumb throttle AND the twist grip so you can change out...

and how do you even try to take someone seriously when he's calling guys "son of the ape"......hahaha

holy shit......good catch volfan. damn.....i take it your a stand up rider? when sled season comes around up here we tend to avoid people who are stand up riders.......for some reason they seem to think that they have better control....til they go into a turn a little hot. then you get to see how well they preform the art of barrel rolling.....hahaha

your only supposed to oil the outside of the filters....

ponally i hate the look of the EX. So for that reason id see if he's be willing to do the banshee and say $200-500 as your going to have to do the labor of rebuilding a bike before riding it......and before you can make sure its okay mechanically.

Wow.....aren't you a little shit talker..... Must be a blaster lover that has nothing better to do