Jereme6655

You sure you don't have a 4mil? Every builder has their own way of marking things.......but I believe that the 18+2 means they are 18cc domes and set up for an extra 2mm of stroke. So Im curious if your crank is a 4mil crank. Either way 18cc domes are tiny and usually mean that you should be running race fuels.......depending on elevation of course. But unless your up near the top of k2 you may need to check your compression before running that thing on pump fuel....

Someone needs to find the guy that did that to the bike and beat him mercilessly. Good god that bike is fucking ugly.

As said earier there are screens over the petcock internals which are inside the fuel tank. I prefer to just put clean fuel into the tank rather than deal with a filter on the bike and the possibilities of it limiting the fuel flow (although doubtful I could definitely see paper really causing slow fuel issues which may lead to motor failure). If you are that worried about it you could go and get yourself a funnel that has a screen filter over the end and use that filter the fuel as you fill your bike.

Listen to Brandon....while they do sell pistons all the way up to 66.50......the safe point is what Brandon said.... 66.00

It is one hundred percent normal for oil to come out of the back of the motor when stood on end. This is one of the reasons they have vent lines on there. The other reason is to keep water and shit out of your tranny when you go through puddles. Make sure your lines are on and clear from obstructions and then stop standing the bike up on end.

And for good measure and also to eliminate future problems it would be a good idea to get a stock cross over tube to replace the boost bottle and also get the TORS eliminator kit to get those big ass clunky pieces of delapitated shit off the bike before they cause problems...

i ride mio.....about 30 minutes south.....dependswhat your looking to ride up there. theyve got both the orv rutes and orv trails up there. the orv TRAILS are the real tight trails that are labeled for quads but you wonder sometimes how dirtbikes make it throug. the orv ROUTES are the ones that you can buy a orv stcker and drive your car down....so you can really open it up on those. the orv routes in that area are far less than the trails. The type of terrain your gonna run thrugh is hard pack dirt, soft sandy spots, and possibly a few sections of random softball sized rocks... i was up last weekend in mio and it was DUSTY. Best time to ride if you guys are up for it.....is early in he morning.....by 10am your gonna be about 1/4 mile apart because the dust will be so thick.

toe honest it would probably be best at that point to split the cases and remove all the bearings and replace them all.....if one is at he end of its life who knows about the rest. or you coudl just remove them one at a time and spin them on your finger......you'll know when you find a bad bearing....

Larrys Shee on here has had his sons bike with stock intakes plugged pretty much since they got it. he says it hasn't caused an issue nor does it seem to really change anything other than giving you a little more room to work.

man.....that is an odd one....it almost does look like bearing munched itself....but you say it all feels tight. how hard do you have to jack around on it to get it to clunk.....wonder if your flywheel nut came off and its your flywheel free wheeling on the cranks tapered shaft. either that or its got to be a bearing....

jpointing some things out as it was already said they were two completely different setups.....and then it was claimed that they are two similar setups. not trying to make a huge arguement out of it with you...

funny part is most of our tools up at the cottage are from harbor freight......either that or its a mis-matched conglomoration. not trying to fix all mojor problems though.....just trying to fix the problems long enough to get you through the weekend so that you can still have fun and get it back home to fix it correctly.

they're munchin on ya cause of your question.....which did not include a single question about the cylinder plugs/seals. only your thread topic mentioned cylinder plugs.

the crank a 4 stroke is a self bathing style......2stroke cranks are not.....so about the only common thing is they ahve rods and they spin.

haha....the sears near me has never once even looked and made a comment on any hand tools ive taken in. last 1/4" drive i took in was cause it would randomly flip over from tighten/loosen on its own and got annoying......walked inand they said "here ya go"....out the door i went. On another note i've also watched someone put a wrench in a vice and cut it in half cause the box wrench was too long.......he took it back to sears and the guy said "this didn't break.....it was cut".....buddies dad looked at the guy and said "customers always right.....your shitty wrench broke and busted my knuckles" (he had slipped ealier and given himself a kinuckle buster) dude wanted to argue more but just handed over a new box wrench....

correct me if im wrong here.....doesnt the 450 case split down the middle like most dirtbike cases......as in it has a left side and a right side? now how is that "different but not much" than a banshee lower end where the cases have a top half and a bottom half. and how do you think that a 2 strokeand a 4 stroke motor are relatively close.......about the only relation they have to each other is both run pistons and both have spark plugs.....so really there's not much similar between them....

you did what with a screwdriver? you can trim 1/4 inch of the spark plug wire off and reinstall the new cap to see if that works. and ive never heard of putting a screwdriver into the boot to check spark.....its always done by putting a sparkplug in the boot and then place the electrode against one of the head nuts and kick...

better learn how to do plug chops cause those main jets are making your run rich as shit....

hon the hell were you able to get a flywheel that rusty. holy shit.

While you DO have a milled head.....your compression is not really that far off. This is because of the different port timings....basically when you grind out metal for the port job it will lower your compression and the milled head is to bring you back up towards good compression...

ifou pull the clutch cover off and are able to get the ball and rod out with a magnet then they are not welded.....however they have a tendency to weld themselves together when people roll to stops (usually taking a LONG time of rolling or using shitty fluids) if they are stuck together you are going to need to split the cases and SOMETIMES you can manage to get the rod and ball out of the trans shaft by smacking it out......however sometimes you just have to buy a new trans shaft and swap the gears over and get a new rod and ball. To help prevent this from happening.....they make the mighty pancake bearing.....

29L or 29L/R......i believe the 29L rod is a stock rod. the 29L/R rod is the one in question here....

either a plugged vent line or too much oil

a helicoil is a replacement thread that goes down into the hole and locks into the stripped out hole. since you asked about what a helicoil is i would suggest taking it to a machine shop.....just tell them you need it helicoiled and they'll know what you mean.....usually they're pretty cool and wont charge you more than $20

Rip off. Hell you can find a nice set of stock port jugs on here for around $200-300 and even ported for around $300-400. Then it's about $100 to bore and about $180 for wiseco pistons......so for $500 on here you could have a full rebuild and a different set of jugs