Jereme6655

As in your trans fluid? Not easily. I guess you could blow an o-ring and then blow a crank seal and get it in that way. More realistic is that your water pump seal cut loose and it leaked into your clutch. The easy way to check for all of this is to do a leakdown test on your motor......it is a phenomenally great tool to help diagnose problems and also ways to eliminate issues.

With that "po-design coo hid".... Wow. Interesting.....doesn't sound like its running so great either. Almost sounds like its got a random miss and a little throttle hang when he walks away from it

Usually if the key either shears or just disappears......the flywheel will fall off and the flywheel wiill play pinball on your pickup lead and your flywheel cover. Look at your flywheel again.....and look on the inside of it. I know when I remove my flywheel there have been a few times that the key has been sucked out by the magnet which is rather strong inside the flywheel and appears to be missing until you look inside the flywheel.... Jereme

Talk to a member named NYUK on here....he deals in used parts for extremely good deals. He can get you started with cranks and possibly a set of cases

Put in 27.5 pilots. Set air screws to 1.5-2 from seated. Then put in 270 mains. Warm the bike up on the plugs that you have in it. Shut the bike down....then put brand new plugs in. Fire the bike up and immediately run the bike full throttle from 1st gear through the top of 6th.....when you get it up there pull the clutch in and shut the motor down and cost to a stop. Then reinstall your original plugs and ride home. Take a hacksaw and cut the threads off around the plug where the threads meet the base of the plug. Then you will look at the porcelain base of the plug....it should be a milk chocolate brown about the thickness of a dime. If its lighter than milk chocolate or grey then you are too lean on the mains. If it is dark brown then it is too rich. Jereme

Also what pipes are on it? Stock or aftermarket?

Super SUPER simple to build.....I believe it winds up being roughly $10 to build and it is a phenomenal tool to help diagnose and to test with after builds.

No worth it. I got my 01 at a police auction with FMF pipes, 2-1 air filter, new tires all around v-force 2 reeds, and all on stock bore for $1675. WITH a title from the police station. That bike has no title.....it DOES NOT have a lock up...just a polished cover. Also no key switch, and no kill switch. No headlights, and a rusty axle. Also check out the rear plastic on the right side of the bike......being pinned on with a bi gass fender washer as you can see the crack in the plastics. It does have pc pipes and a tether and a new chain along with aftermarket arms and shocks. And it's also got a twist throttle. Probably gonna need some new rubbers at least on the rear as they are starting to get low. I'd offer him TOPS of $1800 and that's only IF I could get the vin number to be run and come back clean.

Do a leakdown test first.....before you go chasing things that can dont need to be chased.

Read up on how to do a plug chop. Then run with some 27.5 pilots n there and around a 260-270 main (this is why you need to know how to do a plug chop to check)

Just for looks

And make sure your choke tube between the two carbs is in place

Buy over seas and get em shipped. Aside from that there is no way. I ask em for vin #s as I'm not sure if you get a new title with the current year if you wind up needing a new frame and buy it from Yamaha.

My FMF pipes at 1000 ft above sea level hate stock needles and really comes alive with 27.5 pilots. Watch out!!!! With 240's in your bike you are going to burn it down! Gotta go bigger on those mains!

Id call around to our site sponsors and tell them just what you told us and ask them.....theyll tell you what they believe and then you go with who you feel comfy with. You should also set a price limit and try to stick to it.....but be reseasonable with the limit....as these things can get expensive quick.

if there was gas/oil mixed in with your tranny you should have immediately stopped tearing the motor apart and done a leak down test.......this would have let you know exactly where the leak was that caused some problems. there are a few guys on here that have the bottom end walk throughs with detailed photos.....i know bigred350 has it linked in his signature.

the measurement needs to be done with the plug fully threaded in. it sounds to me like you maybe near 22 cc domes. The next step when you get your head installd on you bike is to do a squish band test to ensure that there is't anything major that is going to cause problems.

moose racing booster tubo??? looks to be a damn boost bottle to me as i see no exhaust manifold going to a turbo. and hes got TORS eliminator or a 34mm carb this crankers confused

could be anyones domes.... you could either order another set that you know exactly what they are. or you could put the sparkplug into one and then seal it to a piece of plexiglass and fill it (thru a small drilled hole near the edge of the dome in the plexiglass) and measure what it takes to fill the dome.....this will give you the cc of the dome....however it will not give you the squish (which could have been custom cut to compensate for sqiuish)

just remember that you can sell your stock crank and stock jugs to hlp offset the cost of a different setup

yhave to call the builder that did the work and you must ask him if they are even able to be ported again. depending what type of port job you had done to the jugs dectates whether there is enough even left in there to tweak it into a 4mil port job....

Well pipes are about the biggest hp mod that you have currently. Sure the domes and the air filter help....but only a little. The reeds are more of a throttle response improver. The real power that makes these things go comes from porting. Stock porting is what really causes the motor to stay so restricted. If you get it ported (depending what type of port job = how much power and when it comes on) it will wake that bike up......could possibly see from 55-65 hp afterwards depending on setup.

That sucks about the chain whack and definitely about the crank......I was mildly interested in it as a back up motor....but now Im not sure.

4mil rod

My guess would be somewhere in the 40-45 range but I'm thinking cloer to the 40