Jereme6655

I wince every time I see that banshee snap like a twig on that burm. Rear axle just ripped off like it wasn't even supposed to be there.

Well they say you need to hold 6psi for 6 minutes with nothing more than a loss of 1psi per minute. That being said I've sealed mine and still had 6 psi after 5 hours.......but I'm a little weird about making sure they seal. If it was sit holding 2 psi from the previous night you are WAY more than safe to run that motor without worry of the leakdown test.

The pilot jet handles from 0- 1/8th throttle The needle handles from 1/8-3/4 And the main jet handles from 3/4 on...... That being said FMF pipes really like 27.5 pilots. the main being around a 280ish seems decent.....maybe 290 if you have pod filters. The reason it is not coming down smoothly and quickly to idle is because it is starving for fuel........remember......2 strokes will free rev or rev hang when they are run lean on fuel. You can order jets online or from our site sponsors.........watch out though....while I've found mikuni main jets at snowmobile stores that will work in the stock carbs.......the pilots are banshee specific.....

Well it actually takes more than just kicking compression to figure out exacts what your fuel demands are. It basically involves measuring everything in your top end and using a mathmatical equation..... However that being said most people just stick by about 150-160 psi of kicking compression is the limit for pump fuels.

That's actually what I use on all my gaskets too....only problem is when you gotta pull old gaskets off......damn it's tacky stuff that works good...

Gaskets and a little of your case sealant...

Who is your new builder?

Tear in your intake boots?

Yup.....you can.....just kinda awkward as the jugs are gonna cause the motor to be tilted while it's upside down. Done it before to swap out a tranny...

You just fill your radiator? If you put in too much it will spit out a little bit from too much in it....then it will level out....

Jeff at Farm and Sand Toys has pullers and sync tools. Just give him a ring and he will get em to you...

Definitely need more than just pump.....especially if it's lower quality....

Choke tube?

The boost bottle should be replaced with a stock cross over tube......they have a tendency to put so much stress on the intakes due to their weight that they will rip your intake boots causing your motor too lean out and melt its pistons..... you could try going to a cool head as suggested earlier and getting smaller domes to give you more compression.

30 may wind up being a little large........27.5 pilots is where i would start. Dont forget to do a plug chop. And about the trans issue........your making too much power to quick shift it......you may also start to notice that you start to find the mysterious neutral gear after second gear if you try drag racing. There is a few things that you can do.....if you only drag race you can go to a over-ride style transmission.......just be careful.......the dunable overides allow slight backloading.....the regular overides will not take backloading. You could also try getting your trans "cut" by some of the guys on here.......sheerider1026 does it and also camatv does it. its supposed to make it a million times nicer too shift.......i know this winter i may send my trans out.....

i 156psi in each cylinder and i run straight 93 pump gas.

ive seen two car fires while they were on a dyno. First one was a mustang.....popped a fuel line and sprayed right down on his headers while it was coming down in RPM from the run.......took 5 fire extinguishers to put the flames out. The other car was a Shelby Cobro kit car......they shop owners were tuning it and it popped a fuel line also......only the flames got pushed backwards from the fan in front of the car........the same shop owner wound up laying over the stick and holding his face to the passenger seat as the flames came up and out the sides of the car and you could see the flames curl in towards the cab of the car. he had sort of an odd look from that day on whenever he had to get into a car on the dyno.....

and apparently he's got one of those new style lockouts/clutch that requires super low oil amounts

if you can pop the old ones out then you should be able to seal them in with some case sealant such as yamabond or Threebond 1211. Just use it around the plug then push the plug in. you should be able to get ALL and ANY parts you need from our site sponsors......not only are they CHEAPER than dealers but they usually have everything in stock and will ship it right to you! Jereme

spark plug color and deto are two different things. the plug color indicates whether your motor is receiving enough FUEL in order to ensure that the motor is not leaning out and causing a lack of lubrication. detonation has to do with making too much compression and the volitility of fuel......aka.... how unstable the fuel gets when its squeezed. at 164 psi the fuel is being smashed so hard (remember that much compression causes heat) that the fuel becomes very unstable and then blam...it either self ignites from the compression or it finds that one small ding on the piston that sticks up a little....which gathers heat at a faster rate than the rest of the piston...so its a hot spot that can case ignition at wrong times.........all this makes deto. so after all that........check compression when its rebuilt.....and either shoot for 150 psi on 93 pump fuel....or go with race fuel if its higher. And do a plug chop to ensure the propper jetting.

If you are talking about the oval shaped plugs that are in the bottom of the cylinders......then yes....those are water plugs to keep coolant out of where it should not be........if they are not in your new pistons you need to get some to install. Personally I don't know if I would want to reuse water plugs......you can purchase new ones

Gonna need to do better than that.....all I could hear was your exhaust ping in the background.

The banshee and the phrase "not expensive" don't really go together. You could try to bump your compression up with a cool head....and try a timing plate to advance your timing to +4. Then after that it's going to get expensive pretty damn quick.

No offense man......but your sounding like you want him to replace your reeds too......because of a bad air filter. True it may be his product that is causing your motor to be weak on one side........HOWEVER.....how can he be expected to purchase you new parts when it was caused by inferior parts? That would be like going into a tire shop and claiming their tire blew out and damaged your fender.......after you put 90 psi in each tire.......they're not gonna be responsible. Either way Jerry is a stand up guy that does a lot for us and is trying to show you how far he goes just to help a guy out when it comes to his products............balls in your court dude......it's now up to you to do the right thing.

between the two stock carbs should be a small black choke tube about 3 inches long. good luck starting a banshee if that is not in place. also what is your current jetting at? and what all has been done to your banshee and what temp/elevation are you at?