Jereme6655

i mean dont get me wrong here.....typo's and a few odd mispelled words end up online all the time.......but fuck me...how have you gotten through life so far with thinking words get spelled like that? Maiking? Wich?

stroker crank with completely stock head would make the piston kiss the head. Take a dowel.....put motor at TDC and insert dowel and mark it........then rotate motor to BDC and mark it again.....pull out dowel and measure.....that's the easiest way to find out if its a stroker or not without spliting the cases.

1) A leakdown test would not tell you that you have a bad seal in the transmission area as it only pressurizes the crank area. 2) Oil blowing out the pipes at the cylinders is a common issue.....alot of the time its just the o-ring in the pipe flange that needs replacing. If its alot of oil it could be the ratio or type of oil that your using that is also causing issues. 3) Since you already need a new seal.....get a seal kit for the lower end and replace them all. Also you should look into getting a billet waterpump as stock plastic ones tend to fail and melt motors. 4) You should.....i say SHOULD be able to split the cases without taking off the top end....ive never had to do it for that....but i have done it for swapping tranny shafts. Your clutch arm seal is gonna be a little harder with the top end on. Also just pay real close attention when slipping the pistons back in the jugs. 5) No. No...and FUCK NO........you should NEVER buy anything from Trinity. It would be like voluntarily putting your dick in a rabid dogs mouth.....no matter what happens.....your not going to admit it after you did it. Trinity has a bad name around here for their motor setups.....so everyone avoids them like the clap. Jereme

those are the stock tors boxes and the screws are for adjusting the idle on them. As said before they are shit. Get the TORS delete and be happy when you can work on your bike with ROOM to spare in that area. Also pretty classy how youve been just randomly turning screws that you have no idea what they are for haha.

i think there was someone on here a while back that had an issue like that......where his carb floats got stuck and instead of coming out the overflow hoses, it filled his cylinders.....

im gonna be moving sometime around mid to late january. its no big deal if the riding in the area isnt the greatest....our cottage (where we always ride) is in mio which is gonna be like 33 miles away from us now hahaha

Wondered if there were any close by trails and anyone from BHQ that rides near or around Grayling mi........askin cause i will soon be relocating from down-state to up there. Jereme

weather change? it get colder where you are? reason i ask is that your fmf pipes and stock 25 pilot jet dont really match each other. 95% of the time the fmf pipes like 27.5 pilot jets....so your already lean on the pilot circuit which has alot to do with start up. Add in some colder weather and itll be running that much more lean. did you do the compression test AFTER these problems started or are you going off of readings that you took when/if you rebuild the bike before it started fighting? also have you tried something simple like new plugs? dont mean to offend you.......seen it happen before though. my riding buddy usually lets his wife ride his bike once a year........EVERY single time she rides it......it stalls and she cant get it to restart. same routine every time.....he walks down the road and kicks his heart out and sees nothing happen.......i walk down with 2 new plugs and a plug wrench and its the 2nd kick and its running. we chalk it up to her lugging the motor so hard that she is carbon/oil fouling the plugs to where they'll "run" as long as the bikes running......but no chance for a re-start

it doesnt strike me as a major concern that the motor stalls just after its been started and the choke has been shut off. to be honest most bikes i have ever seen need a little throttle love when coming off of the choke.....especially if you are not keepin the choke on quite long enough. i watched an old fart i used to know that would let his toys run on choke until you could just start to hear it struggle.....then he'd go to half-choke and blip the throttle......and wait til it just barely struggled......then off with the choke and blip it. he swore by this routine and never had an issue with his bike.... also a FULL PROPPER heat up should be allowed before taking a bike out....

check to make sure your clutch cable is adjusted right and actually disengaging the clutch. check to make sure your ecentric screw is adjusted correctly. also when riding in the witner your trans will naturally be tighter as the oil in your trans is much thicker......which leads to slower shifts....

br8's are actually what the bike calls for.......while you can run the 9's it is a different heat range plug that the bike does not need unless it is more or so setup for running it.

so your saying that when you start your bike it will stall out after about 10 seconds from a cold start? Is this with you trying to blip the throttle to keep it running or just letting the bike try to struggle through itself? And when you fire the bike and take it for a quick rip it will continue to stay running? are you using the choke at all while you are trying to start it from cold?

/\ x2 I'm with Heath on this one.....I can't see it being a radiator issue. I CAN however, see it being an ignition problem. It sounds as if one of your ignition components is having a heat saturation issue. Where it acts perfectly fine when the part is being used for a few minutes.....but once it's used enough for it to start to create some heat inside itself it begins to fail. I'd say grab a meter and ohm out the parts......BUT you may have a hard time doing that as it may only show a problem if you let it warm up and ride it until it starts to have the problem. It may be easier to just go piece by piece and swap with your dad and brothers bike....1 ignition piece at a time.

How many runs did you make on those plugs? You get false readings from plugs that have been run more than once....your looking for something JUST a little darker than that in my opinion but only 2mms from where it starts to where it ends in gritty....not the whole porcelain piece like is shown...

What was your compression after your rebuild compared to now? You have or have NOT noticed a power difference since then?

Banshees are just as reliable as other makes/models of atv's. There is one exception to this......and that is.....it is WAY cheaper to rebuild a banshee motor than any 4 stroke atv motor of there. There are a few things that you have to watch for when you have ANY 2 stroke..... Carb jetting and mods.... Both interact with each other........if you lean it out it's going to damage the cylinders.....if you mod the motor and don't change the jottings then it's going to be lean and damage the cylinders. But jetting is simple and with the knowledge that is one this website it is very easy to get near/where your jetting needs to be.

Yamalube....no. Try doing some research on here using the search function......there hae been 100s of post like this. There are so many different oils that are better than yamalube.... Klotz 927 Amsoil The list goes on and on..... 32:1 and at least 90 on a stock bike....l.id run 93 if it has pipes or more unless mods call for more octane

Did you make sure you put your choke tube back inbetween the carbs?

Being exactly the same you CAN do the splitting of cases with the motor upside down. Very very simple. My suggestion is to obviously drain the tranny fluid first as its going to find its way out the vent on the rear of the top case unless you drain it. Then it's either hammering out the rod (if it is even possible.....depends how hard it got welded) or replacing the entire shaft and installing your gears on the shaft. Not sure if it's the exact same shaft (price wise) but the banshee shaft if I remember is only about $70. That being said I wonder if the banshee pancake bearing will fit in the RZ.....

think simple. if you can switch the wires and the problem moves with the wire then there is an ignition problem....so that means its not the carbs or the pistons/head. DOUBT it would be a crank seal as if it blew a crank seal it would start sucking the tranny fluid and you would see it start smoking extra hard off of the right cylinder. before you go having a panic attack try either trimming or replacing your plug wires. AND your plugs. even though you said they're new who says its not a bad plug. i've personally had an issue like that.....new plug ran like shit.....pulled them out to discover one had been dropped and cracked the porcelin insulator....caused it to arc to the threads instead of the electrode. after you have exhausted the small easy items then start moving up to larger items like stator and what not.

gotta split the cases as the crank seals have a lip on them that goes into a grooze on the machined portion of the cases.

Don't worry about the tach. You won't use it. There are WAY more things that require your attention rather than looking down towards your handlebars to see a tach. On the road say on a motorcycle is one thing........it's all smooth and you have your own lanes. Dirt riding or duning while looking is just going to get either you hurt or going to cause you to get someone else hurt.

Vegasjeff is who he is referring to....one of our great site sponsors. He is a master with handcrafting custom seats.....cheap prices for what's being done too. Look up some of his work. There is a thread somewhere in here with photos of different seats he has done for everyone.

What is your bore at right now? If your cylinders are say currently at .020 over then do not get them bored to .080 in the search for more power.......going larger in bores will not give you anymore noticeable power. do not waste your ability to bore your cylinders. .080 is also the largest that you can safely bore......so.....one little mistake on jetting and your looking for new cylinders.

Check that while you were looking around and such that you didn't mistakenly knock the tube that goes between the two carbs loose......this is the choke tube.......if the tube isn't connected then only one of your carbs will be choking itself to start that cold motor.