Jereme6655

/\ x2 Also there are other things to think of......such as spark arrestors. Shearer pipes (as far as I know) do not have approved sparkies made for them so you may wind up with a ticket if you get caught. I do not know if another companies sparkies will mount up with a little modification or hillbilly ingenuity. But like mentioned....you can change to almost any pipe, you will however have to also change your jetting when you change to a different pipe. Rule of thumb...anything that makes your bike breathe easier (intake OR exhaust) requires AT LEAST a check of the jetting (ie plug chop) if not a change of jets. But personally I wont change a set of pipes just because I believe one pipe SOUNDS better than another. However if it performs better.....well then there may be a change in the future. Jereme

4mil stroked crank is the largest you can fit in the cases without having them trenched. your at your absolute limit with bores.....I hope you didn't get it bored out that far just to try and gain power.....4 strokes can do that.....for 2 strokes you never waste your bore. at this point your too far gone on your cylinders to port them as it would be worthless. and good luck trying to sell those cylinders, they're junk now that they're bored that far. going with a 4mil stock cylinder........figure 450ish for a crank, 300-350ish for port work, gaskets 25, seals 35ish, pistons $200ish.....get the idea? going to a cub is going to be 2k+ easily

I suggest you get ahold of wheelman chassis (one of our site sponsors on here) and look into what he offers for swing arms. The guy can build some freaky strong things. If your going to be more into trail riding your not going to like those cylinders (if they really are drag ported). The power is going to be so peaky that its going to get to be a challenge in the tight stuff when all the sudden the real peaky powerband comes on and your trying to avoid trees.

seeing as how you just had your pushrod and ball replaced, I would suspect that first. ddj got it right with how to adjust it....it isn't disengaging all the way.....can make for real hard times to shift when your out riding. The neutral thing is just the nature of the banshee.....they never have been easy to find neutral with. Seeing as how you welded the rod and ball together.....ever think of getting a pancake bearing? More than likely you welded the ball due to riding style.....coming to long stops, or coasting down from high speed runs holding the clutch the whole time. The pancake bearing removes the pressure from the ball and rod and puts a bearing in between them......no more friction to cause issues. Jereme

personally I wouldn't trust that thing being hooked up to the vent on my bike. I get the concept of the vacuum idea to fill the bikes tank....but I don't think I would like the chance for a little piece of plastic to lean out my bike and melt my motor. That being said......we are on to something for us long distance trail riders. How about mounting it up and then filling it with your 2 stroke oil so as you get low on the trails (if you ride where it is legal to pull into gas stations) you don't have to pay the $10 for a 1/2 pint of oil just to realize you don't care for the brand they sell. Although for almost $100 that's getting pretty expensive. Because of that I used 2" pvc and created my own canister using 1 regular glue style butt cap and one screw-on style butt cap. painted it and used hose clamps to attach it to the frame....a lot of people miss it cause its painted the same Yamaha frame gray. few people have seen me using It at the gas stations and came up to ask where I bought it. Jereme

when I had my jugs ported and what-not through Jeff I also had my crank welded. His shop guy called me to let me know they received my stuff and to expect a call from jeff the next day so jeff could go over again what he thought I was wanting for porting. it was about 45 minutes later when jeff called to chat about the port and what the over all effect was that I was looking for. He also offered me the chance to get the crank shipped out immediately so I could build the lower end, while I waited the couple of days for my jugs to get bored and ported. Then he asked me to give him a call back when I received everything in the mail because he wanted to go over start up procedures and jetting and everything like that. A+ for service everytime ive dealt with Jeff.

build a leakdown tester and give your motor a leakdown. ive seen a motor that got a crank seal starting to leak and it sucked in the tranny fluid.....fouled the plug and the guy threw a new plug in and kept riding.....eventually it melted his piston down....

what the hell would you want to keep the parking brake for? only thing ive seen them good for is seizing up and keeping someone wrenching instead of riding. but seriously.....just leave your bike in gear when you stop.

jetting is something your gonna have to learn.....but to start out....look the bike over VERY thoroughly and tell us all the things that you see on it. ie the pipes, if it has aftermarket reeds, what kind of filters you put on it, then jump back on here and tell us your elevation and your temp that your currently at. All this plays a part in jetting. Things you'll want to learn is how to tune and this is a learning process. To start you off and teach yourself what trying to achieve.....go to google and type in plug chop banshee hq. Then read up on the procedure and you'll begin to understand the basics of jetting.

fluid choices are personal preference.....but I would throw away that penzoil marine shit. There are more better choices out there. I run amsoil and others run Castrol 927 and klotz supertechniplate.

my setup is a stock stroke 350 that is dune/play ported by jeff at FAST with FMF fatties, vf2's and used to have a 2-1 air filter. That being said I also ride at 1100ft and had a .030 shaved head and I was at 130 psi. I went to a cool head and got a set of 20cc domes and it put me at 156psi in the jugs......which I ran fine on 93 pump fuel. Jereme

and also.....I would suggest that you stay on this forum. READ READ READ AND READ. There is A TON of great knowledge on this site from a lot of the guys who have been around for a while. Yeah.....we can get kinda rough on some people.....but its our way of having a little fun with each other....we mean no harm....really. Things I would say I would concentrate on.......learn jetting, look how to make a leakdown tester and use it, buy the clymers manual and use it, buy a clutch tool (to hold clutch while you pull the nut off) and a flywheel puller.....only 2 specialty tools you need to tear entire bike apart, buy a torque wrench, and also buy a decent compression tester. and don't be afraid to ask any questions.....but if you yourself think it is a realitively stupid easy question.....you may want to run it through google.....chances are its been covered on here. Jereme

well from what you just described is happening with 2nd gear.....its not a problem with 2nd gear. No offense here, because I have no clue how close of a friend the guy who told you to change it is.....but for your wallet and your bikes well being.....tell him to get bent and shove off. He sounds like he doesn't have a clue as to what is going on. I say that because the problem you describe is pointing towards either being a jetting issue (causing the powerband to be harder to accomblish) or a worn out clutch which is causing the bike to over-power the clutch. Either way there are 2nd gears that can be bought that are made from billet. However the only people that have really needed them are drag guys who are making serious power......and a lot of that is due to them dropping the clutch on a motor that's already wound thru the rough and shocking all that power through 2nd. FMF pipes aren't BAD....but they aren't the greatest......it really all depends what your looking to do.....

Welcome. Have you ridden the bike? Does it do anything odd going into 2nd gear? I guess we first should have started with DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE JETTING CURRENTLY IS? If no then you should pull the carbs apart and look to see what main jets and pilot jets the bike has.......then give us your elevation that your riding at...and currently temp. Reason for all this is because 2 strokes can lean out and melt down when the jetting is off. Cold weather and elevation definitely affect the jetting, along with pipes, filters, and port work. Yes these bikes are WAY different. There hasn't been many bikes you can buy and make so much horsepower with for so little. That being said.....your power is only decided on the amount of money you want to throw into it. If your gonna be going through water and mud then you definitely want to find a stock air box. While pods allow easier breathing and freeing up more power......the stock air box protects tons better. 2nd gear can be replaced without having to replace the entire transmission. You have to split the cases to do that.....but banshee's have TOP &BOTTOM cases....not side/side cases.......which makes it super simple. And on a side note...this forum is different. F$&k is not a work. FUCK is a word. We aren't goin to bitch at you if you say shit, damn, fuck, wang, ball-bagger or any other concoction of words. However the site owner (tyler) seems to take note whenever GOAT and TYLER wind up in the same paragraph......

that's fine by me man. been out goofing around on the trails and back roads up here. holy hell there's a lot of shit to play around on with the sleds and bikes. anytime you wanna get back to trail riding dajogejr....just let me know.

because its gonna be so much compression that your crank is going to be getting punished everytime a spark plug fires. unless of course your WAY up in the mountains....but seeing how your in texas I doubt your that high. That much compression is just too much for a crank to reliably handle. Im running a dune/play port from Jeff at FAST and have 20cc domes and im kicking 156psi of compression (port jobs require a raise in compression as the exhaust ports get played with to flow more....meaning they don't seal up as soon......so you wind up with less compression with same dome size.....requiring a dome change) at 156 im running the TOP of what 93 octane can support.....I tried a set of 19cc domes and I was in the 172psi area. I bet you would be higher than what c12 (108oct) could actually support. not to mention that is one hell of a stop and start that your crank sees.

I agree with matt......he rebuilt my triple rate Works shocks and they worked awesome. The worked so good they caused me to go over a section of road WAY faster than I was able to before....which meant I didn't realize the bump was coming up as quick as it was. Front end floated over the bump.....rear end hit HARD and my 2-1 filter fell off one intake and sucked up a bunch of dirt while leaning my motor out. I still blame matt for blowing my motor up......not because he did something bad.....more for the fact that he got me riding too fast. (matt im still waiting for you to send me a check for the rebuild of my bike! haha)

I would send my crank to Jeff at FAST Racing (Farmandsandtoys.com) Those pistons look like they've fought through some detonation.........and there is a picture of your crank that shows a close up of the spot it was rubbing against the cases...but what the HELL is on the crank itself. it almost looks like your pistons started to come apart as tiny pieces and stuck themselves to your crank. my guess.... crank seal failed (that looks to be the cause with that folded lip) and it leaned out your motor.......pistons got hot and she started to detonate and from there it just couldn't take it.... wouldn't surprise me if your crank bearings are all shot. Look around on the For Sale Section.....as sleeving these cylinders is very expensive. A lot of times you can find really good deals from us trying to offload stuff that's just sitting on our benches. Hell you may even be able to find a set of already ported cylinders....wind up cheaper that way. Also....if they're not ported, you can save some $ if you purchase them off of someone here and just have them shipped directly to the builder of your choice. Jereme

sounds almost like you may be running slightly lean. definitely do the leak down first. then i'd try and fatten up the jets just to ensure its not going to melt down. then plug chop. then final dial in.

this is a PAIN? SERIOUSLY? wow......all you gotta do is call jeff and say I want this. its way easier than having to bid on shit. and when you have a question you can actually get an answer.....not to mention a professional builders instructions....

hey ricky ricardo........dodjer was saying that its never EVER a good idea to run a 2 stroke out of fuel. Doesn't matter if your riding it or if your just letting it idle.....its still HELL on 2 stroke motors and pretty much doing damage instantly. Also 2 strokes have a tendancy to "run away" when you run them out of fuel. Its the nature of the beast and pretty much the opposite of what you physics should allow......but the more you starve a 2 stroke the HARDER and FASTER it is going to actually push itself.....so there have been cases when they start to starve on fuel and just free rev out of control..... and since you are new we will give you some insight on how to stop a run away motor...... pulling the key, ignition wires and even plug wires wont do anything since at that point it is free-reving so hard and building its own heat it will actually start creating its own ignition source. If this happens pretty much the only way to kill it will be to pull the choke lever out and give a quick stab on the throttle......basically just flooding the motor with fuel compared to what it just ran through. Usually brings the revs down long enough to shut the bike down.

hot rods. that's about the most common crank your going to find on here. they're not bad.....about the same as the so called better cranks. Also there is not a specific compression number that they should be welded at........best rule with the cranks is just to get em welded. How long did the bike sit between when it was running great and now? Im wondering if you had stuck rings. Also you said one piston is flat on the exhaust side......who did you have do the last bore/hone job.....I bet they didn't chamfer your ports causing one of your rings to snag the sharp exhaust port and start the damage. Can I ask why your motor is up at .080 bore right now? If you had that done in the interest of gaining size to get "more power".......then you screwed yourself.... .080 is the most these things can safely be bore out to......so if those jugs need to be bored, which im guessing they do based on them not running now, then your lookin at having to get new cylinders. 4 stroke motors can accomplish more power by being bored larger.......2 strokes don't see any power difference from boring to the maximum size and also......you shouldn't waste those valuable bores for the search of power.

shit I think most of the alky guys on here are running up near 10* of timing if not a little more

I have the sync tool from jeff at fast and absolutely love it. works awesome.

look through the vent pipe on the cap.....if you can see clear through the cap your good to go.....a builder had me rip my cap to pieces and he said he wanted it so that I could see daylight through that pipe.....