Jereme6655

are you sure its the petcock that is on the gas tank that is leaking? or are we talking about the hoses that come from the carb overflows? your descriptions are a little hard for some of us to follow.

yea....hes got 14k into it my ass. Lets see, the subframe looks to be fucked as the plastics in the rear are bent all outta hell. And I got +4 arms on it.....but my alignment is pretty much FUCKED.

I think the port job was right around $300....but don't quote me on that....id have to look for the receipts. The cool head I picked up on here from a member for $100........you can usually find some from quality sellers for cheap in the for sale section. Never had an overheat problem with the bike.....and I ride trails too. and yes I run stock carbs.

im running a stock stroke 350 that is dune/play ported by Jeff at FAST, FMF pipes, vf2's,K&N pods, +4 timing, and a coolhead with 20cc domes (at 1100 ft) and I kick over 156 compression and I still run on 93 pump

I don't think the stock front shocks on the banshee are worth a damn or can be rebuilt to work worth a shit. However I do know that the rear shock is a pretty decent shock. The guy you want to talk to is MattSCS.....he is our suspension site sponsor. I would suggest looking for some aftermarket shocks to get your hands on and have him rebuild them. I personally bought a par of triple rate Works shocks and had him rebuild them.......I can honestly say that they rice 10000x better than stock shocks. And yes...they will ride good on the trails you ride.....I ride in Mio... Jereme

I was referring to where you asked if anyone had a part # for a grommet that could block the ports. I thought you were mentioning blocking the choke ports on the carbs lol. Also you may want to make sure you dab a little sealer around the choke plunger itself where it seals to the carb (there have been a few guys that have had an air leak there) and check your choke tube for leaks.

if you buy the timing plate.....it is 3 bolts/screws holding the plate to the case, 3 bronze colored screws holding the stator to the stock plate, and 2 small screws on the back of the plate holding the stator wiring onto the back of the plate. Really easy to install the plate. Make sure you use Loctite on every screw and bolt.

I will admit....ive seen RDZ cylinders lay down some crazy times in a stock stroke bike.

the drag port will cause the power band to be later in the rev's.......so your going to get very mild power up until it can utilize the port work, which then will cause a monster power spike when you get up in the rev's. Watch yourself the first little bit....it could get hairy.

you cant block off the nubs on the carbs. There has to be a hose between the two nubs that are in line with the choke plunger. The stock banshee carbs use vacuum pressure to initiate the choke on the right side carb. Without the tube you will only have one carb trying to choke a twin cylinder bike. There have been times that I have seen the jetting so close to being too lean (on the pilot jet) that it wont start. To check the choke circuit, pull the plunger, clean everything inside and make sure the choke needle and the seals on the plunger look alright.

I have no experience with the other builders.... but I must say that Jeff from FAST Racing is the guy I deal with on all occasions. I have had nothing but good luck and great service from his company.

like shee rider said....your jetting seems off. For just FMF fattys (granted it does depend on temp/elevation) (say 1100ft and 70*) then you should be around a 260-270 main. With the no airbox lid i'd jump it to say 270-280. Then also you should be around a 27.5 pilot and air screw at 1.5-2 turns out. Needle on the middle clip. Try that. Have you also tried doing a leakdown test? may have a leak that's causing such a lean condition that your having to use extra fuel to help it fire. Clean out your choke circuit? checked your choke needle? And are you sure you have the choke tube inbetween the correct nubs on the carb?

now you say 95 or 98 octane.....but I swear I remember from guys on here.....that other countries 95 or 98 equates to roughly our 91 or 93 octane. If that's the case its gonna be a little hard to get a REAL hard running cub on just pump fuel......not saying it cant be done....but its just a little harder.

x3 on Jeff. He is the guy that i deal with for all my engine parts and questions. Jeff is not only a great guy but runs a company that has great customer service. Best advice you could take......STAY AWAY FROM TRINITY. Shits junk. Most of the stuff utilizes a lot of the current motor....such as the cases, clutch setup, and what not. If its WIDE open (and you don't mind running race fuels) id say run a cub. If you need more of a low end power style bike id go for a Serval top end kit......both are available in stock stroke, +4mil, and +10mil. The larger are going to require more $$$ to build.....so you need to come up with a specific budget. Jereme

Wiesco is what i run in my bike. Wiesco is going to be the most common answer your gonna get. A few guys also recommend WSM.

Joe.....correct the TORS brain box is what is under the fuel tank on the left. It seems like your pretty eager and also seems like you've looked over the bike a time or two and noticed some things that others may have overlooked. Good job on not sounding like a 4 year old trying to explain nuclear fission. Clymers manual is the manual your gonna want. However you can download the factory service manual here on the site. Personally i'd still get the clymers. For motor mods, we have a few site sponsors on here that do great work. Those include FAST Racing (farmandsandtoys.com), HJR, Redline Racing, Wildcard Racing.........Personally I have dealt only with Jeff at FAST Racing.....great guy and great service. He carries almost EVERYTHING you could need for your bike.....and if he doesn't carry it then usually he can tell you who will and where to get it. From the sounds of your low end problems, it would sound like your jetting may be off. For some reason a lot of previous owners are smart enough to rejet the main jet based on the FMF pipes.....but no one looks at the pilot jet. When I got my bike with FMF Fattys on it, I almost had to pump the throttle while slipping the clutch just to get the revs high enough to make it to the powerband. It wound up being the previous owner did not go with a larger pilot jet..... FMF Fattys LIKE 27.5 pilot jets.......stockers are 25 and cant feed enough fuel at low speed for the pipe. Also your jetting (assuming your riding AROUND 1000-1700' and its say around 60*) should be roughly in the 260-270 main jet area and a 27.5 pilot jet area.........if the pipes are the only mod. As the bike gets the opportunity to breathe better based on you putting on more performance parts, you will continue to have to rejet. Jereme

im sending you all the 3 of the transmissions in my garage. hahahhaaha

don't get me wrong guys....white can look great on a frame......but not a trail bikes frame. They get WAY too dirty looking.

There is a purposely bent section of the frame under the motor....I believe it is on the left side. I believe I once heard that Tyson Racing has a frame jig to check/straighten the shee frames. There IS a guy in Michigan that does what you speak of.....however he has a bad rep on here. His company is MotorCity ATV. He has been known for sending out shit used parts and claiming they were "lightly used". Then saying that he wont return them. if you go this route....I suggest you go there in person. I have been there in person and that is the only way I will buy anything from him.....is in person. make sure you check things VERY VERY VERY THOUROUGHLY. Id also make sure that the VIN # actually matches the frame. AND I would try and talk to him to agree (and maybe even in writing if he would) that you are buying it based on it being supposedly straight......if its not you want your money back no questions asked.

if your kicking over 115 then there is no need for a top end rebuild.....

those are definitely vf2's. Although.....im pretty sure that you have the hold down plate backwards......i could swear that i saw before that the vf2's for the banshee required the "high" side of the retainer strip to be pointing outwards. Anyone able to confirm this one?

i dig it......unless your one of the guys who in the middle of the night swings open the door and lets it rip. Someone's bikes gettin pissed on....hahaha

anybody notice the fact that its missing the left pipe? not a 2-1 pipe.....like straight up missing.

mimi.....I would have to say that if youd go up to larger carbs you would gain some top end...however a lot of guys have said that they've noticed some slight drop off on the low end. I do have to ask though.....any reason why your running 110 octane? With a milled head and a port job you should be perfectly fine running just premium pump fuel. Hell with my ported motor and a milled head I was running less compression than before I changed to smaller domes in a cool head......and im still on premium pump. Where in Michigan are you at and where do you ride? There's a lot of us on here that are from Michigan Jereme

depends on the route you plan to take. If your going to go with a port job from a site sponsor then your going to need to get a lower size dome to increase your compression as your intake durations will be longer meaning you'll have less compression. Id say go with a cool head, some 28 pwk carbs, +4 timing, reeds, and get your crank welded and send your cylinders out for a port job. Will seriously wake up your bike.