Jereme6655

is it a spark issue or could it also be a fuel issue? im wondering if you were running the bolwls dry on your carbs without realizing it.........check your electrical connections, check the wiring to make sure its not melted or pinched somewhere, check and clean your carbs to make sure the float isn't sticking, and check your fuel cap and your fuel cap vent tube for something blocking it.....remember if those get blocked....your tank is going to go under negative pressure....

the stock motors push about 125psi when fresh rebuilt........so 121 is no where near rebuild status. I run fmf fattys on my bike and like em a lot....they're not bad just some don't care for them. make sure you get a clymers manual for the bike.....its worth its weight in gold. Also don't forget to rejet the carbs.....anytime you change something that makes it inhale or exhale easier you have to rejet. And a 20x30 garage to share with the sea-doo isn't big enough.....your going to need at least a 20x30 for the banshee itself.....remember these things can be FULLY dismantled...body and all.

im also a little interested in a stabilizer.....but I need to keep the cost down as my fiancé will be wanting one too as soon as I get one. It hurts cause if she sees me get something she wants something for her z400 too haha....always makes me hate buying parts lol

id go with VF4's.... wait for windycityjohn to jump on this post and talk to ya......he was one of the guys who did testing for the VF4's and has the dyno # improvements to show for it.

there's been guys who have shattered the skirts off the namuras in banshee's also......the namuras are the pistons that came stock in the banshee straight from the factory. That being said it is all about how the cylinders are bored/honed to keep the namuras from shattering. They have to be bored to their correct tollerances for cast pistons.......way different than machined for forged pistons.

my chariot pancake came with 2 rods....one short and one long.....I BELIEVE I used the short one.... if I did and your in the US I could possibly mail you the longer one (if I do actually have it still) also....the grabby clutch is a common problem with cold oil as it seeps out between the friction plates and you have to run the motor and pull the clutch in to get some oil in between the frictions again.....its nothing to worry about. Changing to a different higher quality oil can help cure that problem if it annoys you that much. to answer your question about a banshee motor being in a rz chassis.....I think it would be a little much to handle as you wouldn't have the smooth transition into the powerband......it could get quite scary.....especially if your trying to zip off the line....

also make sure you get it the carbs sync'd good. The F.A.S.T. racing carb sync tool is great. I understand that there could be a shipping issue with you being in Bahrain.....so try this route.....are there any auto shops or auto clubs near you that deal with the old school VW beetles? if there are.....ask them about a squirell cage style carb sync tool......it is the same tool.

like said earlier.....your gonna need to get a head and domes, reeds, top end kit, FAST clutch, a dual pingel (or at minimum a gutted cap), also maybe a +4 swinger depending on your riding abilities

I agree whole heartedly on this one. I am one who takes pride in my bike and building the motor....im the kind of guy that split my motor 2 times AFTER assembling it cause I wasn't satisfied that I had it together the way I wanted it. But when a life is on the line, my bike will get the beating of a lifetime to help ensure the saving of a life. Hell I say you GET bonus points for ridin it hard when a life could have been at risk....

this is why the instant I take the cover off I put the nuts, bolts and screws back in the holes they thread into......hasn't let me down yet. and for the times im splitting cases I always go through and put the nut/bolts for the cases in Ziploc bags and write on them with a sharpie what exactly they are....

also try sync'ing your carbs since you've got the bike running better now.

pull the clutch cover off.....if all is good in there......then you gonna have to split the cases.....which isn't that bad seeing as you can split the banshee cases to access the trans by flipping it over and removing the lower case. There aren't a lot of bikes out there that you can split the cases without taking the full top end off....

your not really going to find too many site sponsors running specials this time of year. I know jeff at FAST just got done running a special on bore/hone..... Its not really that bad of a price even without a discount. I believe its right around $300..........which for a rebuild of a atv AINT bad at all. Hell im about to do JUST A VALVE JOB on my fiancé's LTZ400 and its going to be close to $300 JUST for parts. If I had the dealer do all of it....it would be over $500 for a damn valve job.

truth of the matter is that electrical issues cant be guaranteed. Too many times have mechanics come across and issue and the correct answer to the problem doesn't work....or doesn't do shit. Which makes everyone start running around trying all sorts of odd ball shit while they're brain slowly starts to turn to something of the consistency of moosh. That is why electricity mostly deals with theories lol. That is why they came out with the KISS rule. Keep It Simple Stupid. I cannot tell you how many times I have walked into a situation and applied that rule and made a comment to the mechanic and he said it wouldn't work........2 days later he had his head down when he walked past me. The part that will bite you in the ass is when you say "but it can't be that because......(insert dumb ass comment)" This is how you solve problems....... -Find out what the symptoms of said problem are. -VERIFY that the symptoms really exist and are noted. -Come up with an attack plan....starting with 1st thing to check and ending at the LAST thing to check. -AND FINALLY (this is what shafts people EVERYTIME) stick to your whole damn list and follow it WITHOUT SKIPPING ANY OF THE SHIT YOU PUT ON IT!!!! Its that ONE thing that you skip that keeps you from riding. Let us know what you find. Jereme

its not to say its not a decent crank...........its just to say that the hot rods crank is trusted more......its been in a lot of bikes and hasn't had too many issues. Its more of a choice that we are comfortable taking......because after all....if you put some no name shit crank in to "try it out" and it takes a shit on you.......now your out a crank AND a top end cause it beat the piss out of it.

im with windy on this one......your bike isn't built enough to warrant selling your pipes and getting new ones. Hell your bike is just about the average trail rig.....maybe not even that in most cases. I would suggest getting rid of those reed spacers unless you need them to space your filters away from something. They're just another point for an air leak to melt your motor down. Also advance your timing, and if your still looking for power...port your motor. That will really wake up your bike.

cam.......he said his wife shattered her hand coming down off of a jump.....I can see where her hand would be sore/in pain while riding. Hell I ripped up my shoulder years ago after a long night of snowmobiling. And now even after riding only 15 miles, I wake up the next morning and have thought of taking myself back to ER as my shoulder is screaming in pain. Some things just hurt way more and put strain on the body/bones in different ways. But I give your wife credit for not only riding a banshee.....but for wreckin her bike while riding and NOT wanting to sell her bike......sounds like a keeper man. Photos NOW!

/\ bahahahahha......rubber that's freaking AWESOME!

hahaha.....starwriter.....that would be one hell of a hard bike to ride. imagine him being nice and loading the quad up on the trailer for her.......up the trailer and right off the trailer.....hahahaha

just to humor us.......try unplugging the TORS brain box. Its under the fuel tank on the left side of the bike....its a small little black box. Sometimes the brain can go bad. Also do you still have the parking brake wiring in place? Just because you replaced the reeds and the boots and rebuilt the lower end doesn't mean there can't be a leak. Hell the intake on the jugs are a notorious spot for leaking even with new gaskets. I know ive gotten advice from site sponsors on here to actually take a small amount of case sealant and smear it on the gaskets before installing. Usually what I do is get the Permatex copper spray for gaskets......it makes a tacky bond for the gaskets and at the same time the copper fills in small little inconsistencies on the mating surface.

here....little cheaper. http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Trail-Tech-Vapor-Computer-Kit-75-2010-p/4110118.htm

My question.......your post says you pulled the head. But it doesn't say you pulled the jugs......so how do you know the pistons are still in good shape? Hell you could have broken a skirt off and cant see it. (doubtful cause it would have sounded like hell if it didn't lock up) But my biggest question is how do you know your rings are still expanding? Throw up some pictures of what your pistons/jugs look like and let us see so that we can have a look at what your talking about.

or you have a bad ground on the other frame.

Say what???? I don't get why you tell him there should be the rubber coolant plugs on the bottom of the jugs and immediately tell him to take a screwdriver and remove them. Then you proceed to tell a story of how your buddies bike developed a coolant leak when run without the plus..... Beck........ripper is right about the location. Flip the cylinders over and you should see the rubber plugs on the bottom. If they are not there you need to order some and install them. Without them they will fill your motor with coolant.

like andy said....a lot of people run br8es plugs. My buddy and myself both run the resisted plugs with the resisted caps and have no had a problem..