Jereme6655

Remember this.......EVEN if you built 2 identical motors.......they are still different. No matter what you cannot build 2 motors that will not have slight differences. You'll notice it too sometimes......exact same setups to the "T" and yet one likes running rich on the mains and one doesn't. So you can't compare your buddies to yours. Not to mention there may be other things that are playing factors.....different squish angels, different squish tolerances......hell....even the condition the domes are in can contribute. Adding timing WILL NOT HELP the detonation.......sometimes you can Band-Aid fix a very slight deto problem by retarding the timing.....but I must say.....its not a FIX......its a band aid. Just either change the domes, or run higher octane fuel. Hell I run 156psi and im running fine with no deto on pump fuels. Just remember.....it may cost you $65-80 for domes....but its gonna cost you $300 to rebuild your top end and $400 for a new crank when you let the deto keep trying to throw little fixes at your motor.

if your careful.....just the stock airbox (if you have it) and then of course your gonna need to remove your slides, overflow hoses, and fuel lines. other than that.......that's it. Be careful with the choke tube.....it runs between the carbs in the middle and will make you pull your hair out if you forget to put that little tube back in place.

smarts?

and jam out with the clam out...

rebuild/clean and properly setup the carbs and they wont leak. unless one of your bowls is cracked......other than that a carb is nothing more than a metering device.....so if all the internals are rebuilt/replaced it wont leak.

Your fuel is measured in RON.....our fuel is measured and stated differently. Your 95 is equal to our 91 octane. I would not suggest going lower than a 21cc dome with any fuel lower than YOUR 98 octane.

look into the backsides of your carbs while they're on the bike....you should see a halfmoon cut out on the bottom of both the carbs.....if its a straight cut across the bottom of the slide then they are in backward....

hmm.....there something wrong with that finch? shit I bet that put a damper on your day.....

you can't powder coat the stock a-arms (hopefully you know that already) as you can't put them in the oven due to the non removable rubber in them.......they don't handle the oven to bake the powder so great....

how long has your tors been removed? are you sure the brain box for the tors is also unplugged?

at 94 psi....that is getting into the realm of not even being able to kick start it anymore.....I can't believe a dealership would even sell something like that.......

pipe, timing and air filters.....then make sure to rejet and ride

There is a problem with the fuels we use vs. the fuel you use. If I remember correctly the wording is the problem......as, if I remember correctly, your version of 95 and 98 octane is equal to our version of 89 and 93 octane. Either way if you are at an altitude of close to 3-5k feet......you still wont be able to run 17cc domes on pump fuels......that would still equate to too much compression. Here is a more fail-safe way to check it all out........take the head you were previously running on your bike.....using fresh greese.....smear a decent amount on the gasket surfaces. Then place the head on a piece of plexi-glass that has 2 holes drilled in it (so that you can have access to fill the individual domes. Then fill the domes up with water using a measuring device and count the cc's it takes to fill each one. Then think back to what your compression used to be......this will give you more of a base reference point to see where your domes size compared to altitude which will relate to compression. Then you can adjust from that point while watching your compression.

what they are saying is that its not worth it to "fix" it. You can find a different cover in the FS section or through a site sponsor. Its not really work taking the chance to try and fix it...just to have it not seal up and ruin another trip. In order to fix that they would have to ley the bead all the way to the machined surface and then mill it back to flat.......that's IF it didn't warp the mating surface for the case. its way quicker to just get a new one. And on that note.......is this on a drag bike or a big motor running serious compression? My question is why would it kick back 3 times in a row...... you either have something odd going on with your motor....or your kicking too high of compression.......or maybe not kicking through completely???

from what I gather he's talking about a tether switch....

changing timing only changes when the spark plugs will fire based on the rotation of the crankshaft (in relation to where the magnets on the flywheel will cross under the pickup)

im thinking it may have been a airleak as i know that a lot of the motors have issues sealing up on the intake to reed or reed to carb intake area. ALWAYS do a leakdown.....and if there is a problem.....do a leakdown and compression test BEFORE you disassemble anything.....that way you know where/if there was a problem other than just the reeds...

I have a dune/play port by FAST and 20cc domes and im kicking 156 on each side at 1000'.....when fresh rebuilt. So i would call kevin and ask him his thoughts and opinions......BUT FIRST......id find a different guage and check the accuracy of the reading.......also paying close attention to the adapter on the end of the tester as if it has the collar that extends about an inch to get the correct thread size.....its going to show a false compression level.

He did WHAT???? There is no way in HELL you could get me to drill a hole in my cases to get the push road out......especially if he had the parts to install to fix the problem.....HELL....its easier to just open the cases. And for that matter it takes about 30 minutes to get the motor out of the frame and another 30 to get the cases split upside down. you could blow this up in the early am and still have PLENTY of time to get back out for the afternoon WITHOUT COMPROMISING YOUR CASES......but I will give your buddy credit for trying to come up with a different way to solve a problem...

pipes, reeds, +4 timing, a coolhead with domes decent for your elevation to bump your compression, and pods and sprockets are going to be the most you can do without opening up your motor. After that then its the porting (have to remove cylinders and send em out) and larger cranks.....

hmmm....mr mike b must not have liked his answers? Truth is.....most people who want the info for a 80-90 horse motor and are "thinking" about building a motor of that caliber........don't, wont, or will walk away saying that they don't run worth a shit and try blaming it on the builder. Its not the motor.....like windy said....you gotta know how to tune the motor. Hell if you can't tell me 5 seconds after your bikes motor starts to take a dump.....you shouldn't be building a bigger motor. By this I mean that all of us that are all about maintenance and setups on our bigger motor bikes can tell you INSTANTLY when something in the motor doesn't feel/sound right the moment it starts happening. And 99% of the time we can shut the bikes down and find the problem before we blow the motor to pieces. But like windy said, and like I said earlier.....start with a mid sized motor.

not trying to be an ass.....but do you have any experience on a 80-90hp bike? They're a bigger bang than guys who have only ridden modified bikes should handle. Im not saying you cant handle it......im just saying that if you haven't handled a decently modified bike for some time you may not want to jump that far that fast. Along with about $2500+ in motor work your also gonna need a swing arm, suspension and other supporting mods like a different clutch and a lockout. if your coming from a stock or just piped banshee......how about just doing the smaller supporting mods first.....+4 timing, some reeds, different air filters, a cool/noss head with different domes......all this stuff is gonna be needed to do a 80-90hp bike anyways. and when the stuff I mentioned run out of fun......get the jugs ported. afterwards you can always buy a different top end that wont take so much work and time to get you to the higher #'s. Hell that's what im doing right now.....im running a fun ass trail motor and am slowly starting to build up a 421 serval......on another entire motor I bought (stock top end was blown) for $100.......then if I ever have a problem with the serval.....it takes me what....roughly an hour to swap motors and get back to riding?

Trust us....your STOCK banshee cannot be made and doesn't NOT have enough power to pull itself through a 7th gear. Another thing to think about......instead of spending money on trying to find a trans with a 7th gear.....how about spending that money on maintenance (not saying you don't maintain your bike) but think about running wide open in 6th gear......and having a tie rod fail. Some how I don't think your body or bike are gonna care if you were in 6th or if you had a 7th gear......eating shit at that speed is going to wind up with you waking up in a hospital after surgeories..... Just make sure you put money towards safety as much as power.......I know we all have struggles with that....haha

is it a spark issue or could it also be a fuel issue? im wondering if you were running the bolwls dry on your carbs without realizing it.........check your electrical connections, check the wiring to make sure its not melted or pinched somewhere, check and clean your carbs to make sure the float isn't sticking, and check your fuel cap and your fuel cap vent tube for something blocking it.....remember if those get blocked....your tank is going to go under negative pressure....

the stock motors push about 125psi when fresh rebuilt........so 121 is no where near rebuild status. I run fmf fattys on my bike and like em a lot....they're not bad just some don't care for them. make sure you get a clymers manual for the bike.....its worth its weight in gold. Also don't forget to rejet the carbs.....anytime you change something that makes it inhale or exhale easier you have to rejet. And a 20x30 garage to share with the sea-doo isn't big enough.....your going to need at least a 20x30 for the banshee itself.....remember these things can be FULLY dismantled...body and all.