Jereme6655

Being that parts are hard to find in France (from what you’re saying) I’m sure shipping would be insane to purchase something from one of the site sponsors and ship it to France…. however (some don’t like/trust this option) but you could always run a +4 degree timing key. I’m sure shipping that would be fairly cheap. Many don’t trust it because they worry an offset key is weaker…..but in all reality, the key shouldn’t be taking any load….it should only be aligning while the taper of the crank is doing all the load holding. I ran one for years without a problem on a mild build bike.

Test your compression again holding the throttle wide open while kicking until the gauge stops climbing. Then do a leak down test and report back.

WOT during test? rings correctly placed around the ring retainer pin? (I’ve seen people force the piston into cylinders before with the ring not engaged correctly…yes it will fit with force…..and ruin their newly bored jug. squish is the gap between the edge of the piston face at tdc and the edge of the head. Easiest way to test is to bend a piece of plumbing solder 90 degrees and inserting it into the plug hole and rotating the engine over once to flatten the solder. Then remove and measure with calipers. also….this site….it ain’t like others. We aren’t politically correct, or carry purses here. Gotta have thicker skin on this site and be understanding that everyone gets shit on occasionally. And for the ones who have been around longer….. we’ll shit on each other just to do it.

Well let’s start small. Is this the first start since the rebuild? Why was it rebuilt? Who rebuilt it? -carb crossover tube in place between carbs? -float bowls on correct carbs? (They ARE side specific….) -carb slide cut out facing rearward? (Yes you can install them backwards) report back. don’t just randomly throw parts/money at it. Usually it winds up being something simple that is overlooked.

Just did around on Facebook marketplace. You’ll find em no problem.

Looks decent to me….id run it. Looks to be a relatively safe jetting

Loco’s right. They aren’t “ready” right out of the box. And many people get scared to jet the carbs…they’re actually really easy once you learn how to do a plug chop. And to be honest, you can usually get away with a 20 degree window of temperature before needing to rejet. And even then, if you know your machine and have a slight bit of common sense….you can easily get farther out of that window and still ride safely.

Why do you want lectrons?

Also things to note….. since you’re saying it happens after about 10 minutes of riding…. It could be an electrical component that is starting to fail, but only when heat soaked. There’s two ways I know of testing these situations. 1) ride it with a dvm in your pocket and be damn quick at testing the components when they happen. Or 2)….. pull the electrical parts and heat them in a pot of water while monitoring their specs with your dvm. Four components that shouldn’t get wet….. put them in a zip loc bag and suspend it in the water. Let us know what you find. also…. What symptoms are you having that make you say it’s a right cylinder bog?

I have size 13 feet also….what kind of footwear are you wearing? I’ve never had a problem wearing hiking boots/work boots while kicking. But after its winter nap, I have tried kicking it with tennis shoes on……nope…..won’t do that anymore. Also I am kicking 158/157 psi and have no issues. I do run cut down rear fenders, but when I put my fulls back on, I still do not have an issue with catching my calve on the plastics. Oem starter here

Jeezuz…. Next time do more research on the sellers. Vito’s aka minkia is an absolute pile of shit guy. Quite well noted here on the forum…..

Do you have a place you can do a plug chop? Most guys on here won’t really take our machines to a shop….unless it’s a big name shop on here like F.A.S.T racing or such. Dont really trust most atv mechanics with a 2 stroke to begin with…. Then you throw in a banshee and things can get all messed up. Not saying there aren’t great mechanics out there….. but do a plug chop. Bonus points if you can record it so we have an idea what it’s doing…. Then put it on YouTube and post the link here….

Also, pay attention to the choke tube and make sure you are putting the correct carb intervals into the correct carbs, as the float bowl from the choke carb WILL fit on the other carb and will cause running problems…

Okay. So…. Let’s take a deep breath and get this figured out before your wife makes you sell it! first and foremost…. Have you ridden any form of powersports toys in the past? Is this your very first toy? I don’t want to assume, but we have discovered before that it was all the rider that didn’t understand 2stroke high performance sport quad vs 4 stroke utility quad in terms of understanding how to ride them. Like others said, 330s do sound pretty freaking large IF your bike only has pipes. 2 stroke engines do NOT like to be lugged ….. you have to have the rpm’s up there in order to take off without it stalling or bogging real bad. Are you sure you’re riding it right? Also 2 strokes and especially modified banshees can have a pretty violent powerband….. you know If/when your bike gets there. If your carb is leaking out the drain tube, it is overflowing internally. Usually caused by a stuck float….. sometimes a gentle tapping on the side of the carb will free it up. also…. What do you mean by 1 1/2 turns from “touching the slide”? Only thing touching the side should be the idle screw if you removed the tors…..

You either hung open your carbs, or created one hell of an air leak. Definitely need to do a leak down test any time you remove anything with a seal/gasket that deals with the engine…..at least for safe measures.

Read up on how to sync and jet carbs. Also…. Not trying to sound harsh, but have you ridden 2strokes or banshees before? Banshees like to be up on the pipe…. Not lugged like a 4 stroke

Glad it worked out! Now go give it hell!

Sounds like you have a failing ignition component that gets worse as it heat soaks. can you make a jumper to connect the different plug for the cdi as a test?

No need for larger carbs, oem are good for 65-70-ish hp before they really start to choke the motor. Realistically, if thinking of having port work done, I’d get aftermarket pipes before carbs. Like 375 said, go with something your builder recommends. And on the builder note, please….make life easier on yourself and send it to an ACTUAL builder. We have plenty of them that are recommended on here……don’t just send the cylinders to some dude who says he can port them because he’s close to you. Call em up……the hood ones will ask questions like “what aftermarket parts do you currently have on your bike” and “what type of performance are you looking for” I went through Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing and he asked me things like my riding conditions, what I wanted in terms of performance, my riding style, what fuels I wanted to run or have access to, current bike setup….. super glad I went him, he kept me up to date on the whole process and even had me call him with compression numbers after i finished the build to verify i wasn’t above what the fuel could handle. aside from port work, I’d also recommend pipes, air filter, true/weld the crank, timing, and possibly having the transfer ports ported to match the dune port (your builder will know what I’m talking about)

Are your precious carbs oem? What’s messed up/broke on them? And what is your motor setup?

I run trails and winding dirt roads….never really been into the dune scene here. The front oem shocks ARE less than desirable. I upgraded those and it’s a world of difference. But what really makes ANY shock (front or rear) work incredible, is having them valved and setup for your riding style and weight. in terms of power….the world is your limit, but tight trails and (depending on the build) a violent powerband can get you into trouble. my personal bike has aftermarket front shocks, stock rear, stock a-arms, F.A.S.T. dune/play port, trued and welded crank, cool head with (if I remember right) 21cc domes, pod filters and v-force reeds along with fmf fatty exhaust. Running stock carbs. Able to run it on 93 pump gas (kicking about 152 compression) -personally I think it’s a riot in the trails, BUT I will admit, there are times where the powerband snaps on me because of the tight trails and my gear selection……And it makes things “interesting” to say the least. I’m probably going to drop a front tooth on my sprocket choice and see if that gets me where I want.

Cheapest easiest mod to up it a little will be a milled head. But before you start throwing the parts cannon at it, do some SERIOUS research on jetting and tuning carbs. You would be amazed at the amount of medium built bikes that can just BARELY squeak a win against a properly tuned bike. the most power a 2stroke will make is actually in the detrimental area for hurting the engine……a 2stroke when lean…is mean. ever run a piece 2stroke power equipment out of fuel? The moment before it dies, it runs stronger than ever. I’m not saying run it so low that it will hurt your bike….. I’m just saying that if you’re running too rich you may be hurting yourself. And if your brothers bike is too lean, it may just be hurting his motor too. That’s why plug chops and learning to read the plug are important. also…those “recommended” jets are just a starting point…..don’t ever guarantee that they know what’s best….. hell they probably are not accounting for air temp/elevation, other mods, health of motor…..

It needs 4 things. -A fuel supply -Compression (check it again…hold throttle wide open and kick until needle stops) -Spark (at the right time…. Check timing, pickup gap, and that you actually have spark at both plugs) -Air

It’s not about flowing more fuel. It’s about the air/fuel ratio that your engine likes. Hell your setup is nowhere near in need of 33s. Stick will EASILY handle what you have. could you go to 33s…sure, but you’re going to have to go down in jet sizes…..essentially giving the motor the same amount of fuel as you were with your 280 mains and stock carbs. there are SO many variables here that it’s not even funny. -what’s the health of each engine? -what’s his jetting at? -sprocket sizes the same? Tire size? -his has an aftermarket head…what domes is he running? ——hell…is your bike even jetted correctly? What’s the plug chop look like? Did you chop and check jetting right before racing? ………..

Try filling the tank with boiling water and leaving the cap off, give it a minute or two and try and flex the tank out of the rails.