Jereme6655

holy hell. How do you know that your jetting is right if you don't know what a plug chop is? I understand that the guys who have been doing this for years can jet by feel pretty decent.....but for fucks sake they still do plug chops to ensure everything is fine! Warm your bike up on your current plugs. Then remove your old plugs and INSTALL BRAND NEW PLUGS....fire the bike up and immediately accelerate through every gear. THEN, as soon as you hit either the top of 6th (or if you feel a stutter....in your case id only run it up to top of 4th gear) squeeze in the clutch and shut off the motor....and COAST to a stop while holding the clutch. Remove your plugs and reinstall the original old ones and go back to camp. THEN YOU NEED TO CUT THE THREADS OFF THE NEW PLUGS to have a clear view to the base of the porcelain on the plug. This is where you can tell whether the bike is running lean, perfect, or rich. A milk chocolate band about 2mm tall from the base is preferred. Any whiter or grey in color indicates a lean condition and any darker than milk chocolate would be rich.

hell it doesn't come down to just running decent fluids......usually broken piston skirts are caused by incorrect piston to cylinder wall tolerances. or it could have been that someone didn't chamfer your ports after the rebuild and it snagged and snapped a ring and that's what bouncing around. or ive also just recently seen where there was so much slop from not being rebuilt in 10 years that the piston cocked sideways just a tweak and the ring grabbed the exhaust port and actually split some of the cylinder wall where it tried to peel it out. Basically you need to open the motor, find ALL the pieces, and throw up some photos on here before we can give you an "idea" of what happened. Jereme

GET A LEAKDOWN DONE FIRST.....then you can fire the bike and work out the little problems it may have. We have seen way too many times where a new guy jumps on here and is all sorts of excited and fires the bike up (which leads to not being able to resist a rip down the street) and blows the motor because he didn't do a leakdown test, like we suggested, first. Its not hard.....the hardest part about doing it on the bike is getting the exhaust off.....but the leakdown test itself IS WORTH ITS WEIGHT IN GOLD....(ok realistically more like lead) but unless you want to go from needing just a "tune up/clean up" to a "now I need a new top end and crank" cause it had a massive air leak and it leaned it all out. we all know the excitement your talking about....but we have learned that there is way too much money and heartache to be had by not completing the 15 minute test. And if you don't, and you do blow your motor up cause remember, someone else built it........we're all going to be giving you shit....a lot of shit.

if its a stock banshee that's not really that great of a price. in comparison, I got my 2001 with new rims, tires, fmf fatty pipes, vf2 reed, an aftermarket bumper, and still on the stock bore for $1675. Not saying everyone comes across deals like that all the time.....mine I got through my local police station on a bike they seized. Other than the plastics being stressed from being flexed....the bike was in great shape.

and the black box is the brain for the Throttle Override system. when its unplugged it cannot cause issues with the spark. Also make sure there is a little black hose between the two carbs in the middle....this is your choke tube. Basically it is a vacuum assisted style choke (actually a fuel enricher) to start the bike.......without it not only will it not truly be choked, but it will also have a huge vacuum leak. Where are you located...there are a ton of good guys on the site that (im sure) wouldn't mind swinging by to give you a hand if your not too far off the beaten path.

what people don't know is that car manufacturers are ALLOWED by law to have up to 4% variance in their speedometers. so its not technically accurate. Either way if your stupid enough to have a truck either behind you or next to you at those speeds, your a moron. By the time your buddy realizes that you broke a tie rod or ball joint......you've been fucked about 200' ago.

wow....you did a fuckin number on that thing. Its toast. The pull starts literally changed it from a $300 rebuild to a $1000 engine repair in a hurry. This is why we avoid doing pull start. If its dies, its for a reason, and if it refuses to start.....well that's for a certain reason too. Where do you live? What modifications does the bike currently have? What kind of fuel and oil did you wind up filling it up with?

There are A LOT of other companies out there that you can send your cylinders out to that will actually let you know for free what kind of shape they're in. They're also a HELL of a lot more personable. I have used Jeff from F.A.S.T. Racing (farmandsandtoys.com) but have heard great things about others such as Cameron from redline racing as well. There is a list of our site sponsors on here in which you can call and just question them and depending who you feel most comfortable with, you can send your cylinders to them. plus these guys are a phone call away if you have a question about your motor, or modifying it.........cant get that at all with fullbore.

guy didn't chamfer your ports. Next time stick with a guy that knows what he's talking about......Ive gone in and physically asked the guy if he chamfers after he bores. Say it just like that.....if he looks at you funny, walk out the door and don't look back.

Want to define what you mean by that? A 4mil motor when built correctly is JUST as reliable (if not more) as a stock stroke motor.

put your purse down and hammer it. To really feel a hard "pull" in the higher gears....you have to have it revving harder. Hence why when you street race your already way up in the revs trying to run it hard when you shift....

a lot of guys will run it down and at the very end aim it over their pipe......they do this so IF the bike gets hot enough or has a problem where it starts puking coolant....it'll land on the hot pipe and create that certain smell of burning coolant.

you bore based on what it NEEDS....if it is egg shaped, scratched, or anything like that.....it needs a bore. Dune port for STREET RIDING?!? Egh boy...I hope this is just us getting trolled.

the dual petcock? not one bit....hell I respect the fact that your doing it.....looks pretty interesting. Just pointing out why rjd was saying he couldn't figure out why you were doing it to a stock bike.....I just underlined that you said it was a ported bike... looks pretty slick what your doing.....hope you don't forget to turn one of them on...

yup. either too low octane for the motors requirements or a MONSTER air leak.

when you say it LOOKS good.....does that mean it IS good or you just looked at it and that's it? Did it shear a flywheel key and you didn't notice? is it still TIGHT on the crank? is the gap still set correctly?

did you just remove the coolant bottle?

sync carbs? choke crossover tube in place? do a leakdown test on the bike after you rebuilt the motor? how about a compression test? what are your mods, and elevation, and current temp we need more info. get it.

it actually seems to have the APPEARANCE of a lean condition.....but I don't think a lean condition would have caused the center of that piston to break free. The spark plug backing out is also a KNOWN sign of detonation. By him continuing to ride the bike after the plug backing out (while running less than 96 octane fuel) would surely void any warranty that even Athena would offer. You cant be responsible for someone NOT running what is recommended. That's like someone telling you not to stick your dick in a hole cause it'll get cut off and you do anyways....then him trying to sue you. Don't let him try to blame you.

its a vacuum tube that connects the two stock cars and allows the right carb to be "choked". Without it the bike is SO lean that it will not even start as the carb is sucking in air there also.

Where did you order your parts? If the guy recommended a 530 chain.....id have my doubts about ordering anything from there again as im pretty sure they use a 520 chain. either way.....set of pipes, port job, coolhead/noss head with domes cut for the port job, pancake bearing, water pump gear, seal kit, flywheel puller, clutch holder, torque wrench and a clymers manual. And then some aftermarket suspension.....NOT THE YFZ450 SHOCKS......get shit that was meant for the banshee. I ride in Michigan here and love the power I have with my setup.

running 50/50 will very slightly aid in helping keep the motor cool.......however it is true that the water side of the 50/50 mix does more of the cooling.... the more so benefit of running straight anti-freeze is to allow the anti-freeze to lower the freezing point even more (make it harder to freeze) however IIRC you have to change it more as it will cause electrolysis even quicker than with the 50/50 mix.

pick up the phone and call jeff at fast. Youll be amazed at how friendly the service is and how much they'll bend over to help you. No F.A.S.T. is not a "fake site"......I've spent over 2k easy in the last two years through Jeff

x2 on the checking your gas cap vent. Also what mods are on your bike? what main jet is in it and what temp, and elevation are you at? everything but the vent cap part is important to know when it comes down to starting on tuning your carbs. also....did you unplug the little black box under the left side of your gas tank?