Jereme6655

they are specific pilots.....they're an odd one. So go to a powersports store and tell them its for a banshee. If they know they're ass from a hole in a ground then they'll get you the right ones...

This is very true. However of the 7 sleds in our garage all running Amsoil HP. We have an Arctic Cat that has over 10k miles on it as a "back-up" sled that was opened up once as a "might as well" style check up after the jack-shaft broke. Only thing its seen was also Amsoil. While there is the "last one on the line of friday" variable to consider.......i still look at the combined milage (which is over 30k miles) with no rebuilds. Im not saying its "the best" or that its better than another......but with those first hand results......im going to continue running it without questioning it.

Install compression tester......hold throttle WIDE OPEN.....then kick.....and CONTINUE to kick until the needle on the gauge stops moving. That will be your compression. They say that more than 10% difference is a concern.....however i believe if its more than 5% difference...there something to possibly concerned about.

I run Amsoil HP Injector (which also says it can be run as a 50:1 pre-mix). Now they call it HP Marine. I know I know....."it says its marine oil." Truth is i got turned on to it when i bought my sled from my friends parents. its a 97 and now it has 8600 HARD miles......id say its a stretch if you say it saw less than 50% throttle for more than 10hrs of its life. Its never been rebuilt, never had rings put on it, and never even been cracked open for inspection. Nor does it foul plugs. Every season, after it sitting for roughly 8 months, it never takes more than 4 pulls to get it to fire up.

bad o-ring inside....

you MAY.....and I say MAY be able to get away with just 93 pump fuel with your set up. I know last season I was running my dune/play port from Jeff, with 20cc domes and I was on 93 pump. I did lean the shit out of my motor and suck up some serious dirt and destroyed my motor when one of my air filters came off after a very large bump. However when I sent my cylinders back to Jeff for a bore/hone.....it gave me the chance to ask him to look for any signs that I had missed indicating detonation.....so he had me send my worst piston and that pistons dome along. After he got my cylinders all done, he gave me a call and asked what domes I was running and I told him as he inspected my piston and dome....even to his eye he could not see any signs of detonation on that side. My compression was at 156 on both sides and still running on 93 pump.

if you are mainly trail riding and want to run pump fuel, but still want power and mid-top end......id suggest a serval. They make really strong power all throughout the powerband, and with the cool head, you could swap domes to increase your compression to run race fuels......although I don't see the power being worth that much hassle. Gonna warn you though....depending on what you have now on your bike.....your going to be needing the supporting mods. So unless you have 2k+ set aside to throw at a motor.....keep saving. Its not just the top end, but the supporting mods.... clutch, pipes, carbs, pancake bearing, clutch lever, filters, intakes........it adds up QUICK.

realistically you are more than likely going to need to run a fan. I know with lights, even high powered led or hid lights, the guys have still been needing a battery due to the lights flickering on and off at idle. So Im assuming that your fans will not prefer the motor idling. That being said...I hope you know that the DC conversion charges the battery so slowly that your going to wind up using more power than your battery can be charged with. It will just offset the need to charge your battery as fast......but you'll still need to charge your battery....

if your sending it down the road......send it in my direction.....ill MAKE a spot for it in my garage haha

1) tyler already mentioned what it could be that was inside.....it would be your job after that to figure out exactly which part needs replacing. 2) way to bring up an 8 year old post......

the black stuff that is on your slides is a stain from the slides going up and down in your carb bore. Unless you have something else going on....that black is nothing going on.

also....remember that there are other mods that are cheaper that should be done first to accommodate the port job. such as things like pipes, air filters, reeds, timing mods, true and welding crank... Then you have to remember that when you get the motor ported you are going to have to either go with a shaved head, or get an aftermarket style head with inter-changeable domes to increase your compression (as your compression will drop due to the port job)

do a compression test.

get the TORS eliminator kit. Not only does it solve the problem of the TORS brain causing issues and leaving you stranded...but it also makes working on the carbs makes it REAL nice to work on. AND it comes with actual idles screws (which are what your talking seem stripped out) which will be placed directly into the side of the carb.

a lot of us here don't advise it as it tends to make for weak pistons if you take just a little too much. Porting your motor will give you WAY more power.

head gasket.....

also if you have stock carbs, have you made sure that the choke tube between the carbs was back in place?

We have seen headlight switches go bad. You can try and bypass it to ensure that is not the problem. BUT...you made the comment that it seems to sputter when your in the high rpms.........what mods does your bike have on it and what main jets are in your bike? It could be lean and that could be your issues. Also the PICK UP is what your talking about that is mounted to the timing plate. The STATOR is mounted BEHIND the flywheel (the flywheel actually goes OVER the stator) and cannot be seen unless you remove the flywheel. Do not try to remove the flywheel with a jaw type puller.....you need the flywheel removal tool which runs about $13 to get the flywheel off without bending it.

You cannot just throw pistons in that and expect it to run.... You need to split those cases and clean/find the rest of that piston skirt. Not to mention I can see the scars on the piston that DIDN'T shatter. So at the least you need to get those cylinders bored and honed, along with splitting the cases to find the rest of that skirt. While your there you might as well go and put new seals throughout the motor, along with a pancake bearing.

like stated earlier the cases are bored as a matching set.....we've seen before on here where a guy didn't mention that he had swapped out the lower case only on his motor. If I remember correctly it was on his 3rd rebuild that he mentioned it to us as he was trying to figure out why his first 2 completely destroyed themselves within 2 hours each time. buy a different set of cases.....hell you can get em on here for $100-$150 in the for sale section.

the leakdown test.....did it hold 6psi for 6 minutes? have you disconnected all the TORS electronics? ie the 2 connectors going to the carbs and the little black box under the left side of the gas tank? How about the parking brake wires coming off the handlebars? those should be disconnected also.

have you tried syncing the carbs? adjust your idle? ive had it before when first firing the bike where it would drop the left cylinder at idle because I didn't have the idle high enough on that side. The sync tool that Jeff at FAST racing sells pretty much takes the cake for being one of the greatest tuning tools...

Other than race tech there hasn't been many stators on the market that really works well......some have had a few off brand companies work here and there. But for the most part...you can't get better than OEM.....OCCASIONALLY you'll hear of an oem going bad.....but they just quit working....good god you should hear the stories about the ricky stator units. Metallurgy problems, failing after an hour of use, tolerances so far off they wont get tight onto the crank.........just pathetic.

as surfrjag said.....there's no special number.....there are too many things that can come into play when determining what will work on pump fuel. For instance....last summer I was running a play/dune port with fmf fatties, vf2's and 20cc domes........kicking 156 and I was on 93 octane.

holy hell. How do you know that your jetting is right if you don't know what a plug chop is? I understand that the guys who have been doing this for years can jet by feel pretty decent.....but for fucks sake they still do plug chops to ensure everything is fine! Warm your bike up on your current plugs. Then remove your old plugs and INSTALL BRAND NEW PLUGS....fire the bike up and immediately accelerate through every gear. THEN, as soon as you hit either the top of 6th (or if you feel a stutter....in your case id only run it up to top of 4th gear) squeeze in the clutch and shut off the motor....and COAST to a stop while holding the clutch. Remove your plugs and reinstall the original old ones and go back to camp. THEN YOU NEED TO CUT THE THREADS OFF THE NEW PLUGS to have a clear view to the base of the porcelain on the plug. This is where you can tell whether the bike is running lean, perfect, or rich. A milk chocolate band about 2mm tall from the base is preferred. Any whiter or grey in color indicates a lean condition and any darker than milk chocolate would be rich.