Jereme6655

There may be some confusion with the dome language. Yes you need domes that are for the +4 crank. Yes they have 2mm more cut out of them to clearance the crank. There are cookie cutter domes (just standard 19, 20, 21, etc...domes for +4mil carnks) and then there are custom cut domes which site sponsors can setup specifically to your motors needs to create the most power. Yes they are still interchangeable. Call one of our site sponsors and let em know what you have and talk to em and they will set you up with what works....

like savage says...

i wouldn't run a 7 in the bikes. Marine motors are a little different when they come to the exhaust systems.....they use water run through cooling jackets of exhaust to keep exhaust temps in check......which in turn also helps keeping the internal motor temps down. With the banshees we don't have the luxury of water cooled exhausts. so extra heat in the exhaust can start to do some seriously bad things....

ideally you want the ENTIRE taped end of the crank to be in contact with the tapered hole in the flywheel. That's why they make lapping compound.

huh.....a guy who gets limp over his powerband........

here....lets make this easier........PICS or it didnt' happen. Put up some carnage photos and it will GREATLY help us help you.

Welcome to the BHQ.....we are different than other forums. It becomes VERY easy for us to note that your a new guy by things like "bada$$"......if your trying to say BADASS.....just say BADASS. If its shit, damn, bastard, fuck.......we don't care.....unlike MOST forums.....we are a place that recognizes the real world and can handle words being thrown around. So no worries about cursing or calling people out here..... Yes....there are many aftermarket shocks out there.....elka's, fox floats, and works are the ones you hear talked about the most. MattSCSS is our suspension sponsor on here and can hook you up with rebuilds of any of them........if your nice to him, sometimes he'll even tell you what to look for if your going to go and purchase new shocks to get rebuilt through him.

I run a FAST ported play/dune port with 20cc domes, fmf fatties, k&n pods, +4 timing, vf2 reeds, and bored over stock carbs......and a stock fuel valve and gutted cap and have no problem with fuel starvation. However I also never hold it wide open running in 6th gear....never have like the idea of doing that on quads or on sleds....

you forgot to gut out your gas cap didn't you? flip the cap over and take the 3 screws out and rip the roll over valve out so that you can see through the hole. With the roll over valve in place it can limit the amount of fuel flow which can do exactly what your seeing.....lack of fuel.

http://farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=123 there ya go.

yes.....on banshee's....even if only ONE side has an issue, you need to do the work to BOTH cylinders. Pull the motor down......send the cylinders to a site sponsor on here and have them bore/hone the cylinders and get new pistons.

what do the pistons look like? one have carbon on top and one look washed clean on top?

doesn't matter what kind of tube it is....just as long as it is a good air seal between the carbs

to be honest the motor setup is completely up to you. And your pocket book. With all the bolt-on mods done to the motor....and a larger impellor and impellor gear you will not have heat issues unless you plan on building a HIGH HP drag bike that will be only seeing full throttle and not much run time. If your looking for a duner......shit.....you could just get stock cylinders ported by FAST (farmandsandtoys.com) or redline racing, or there are other site sponsors of ours, that can do phenomenal work. My bike is a Dune/play port from Jeff at FAST with fmf fattie pipes, vf2 reeds, k&n pods, 20cc domes, and +4 timing.......and let me tell you....when you get to mid throttle.....look out...its comin on and gonna throw you off if your not paying attention.....ive had my buddy pull up after a quick "test run" on my bike......he looked at me...shook his head and said "fuck this....WAY past my level.....how do you even keep it down." not saying my bike is massively powerful or anything......but it aint a stock power feel.

fair warning...IF you decide to buy a frame that does not have a title... (I DONT CARE IF YOU LIVE IN A STATE THAT DOESN'T CARE blah blah blah.....) YOU will be held responsible and have your bike taken by law enforcement if it comes back stolen. Doesn't matter if it was in your state or not. Lets say you build this bike....your out beating it good and get stopped by a DNR officer or a cop who is just checkin things out. He decides to run your VIN number just to make sure the toys aren't stolen.......yea who cares in Kentucky you don't need a title....blah blah blah. Then that sinking feeling hits when he tells you the VIN number is coming back as stolen from California. Now guess what.....your in possession of stolen property. Ohhhhh......but you didn't know........ya....like the cops never heard that before. Okay.....now the best things happens.....they let you go without deciding to prosecute you.........but they're going to keep your bike.......you know that right? But what about the $4k of parts you put on it? You don't mean dick to them anymore.........can you prove those are your parts? Cause they just proved that was a stolen bike..........how do they know if it was stripped down and rebuilt by you or 8 other guys? Basically......its not a good idea to buy without a title.

t6 pipes are good for only stock motors. 2-1 carbs......will hurt your low end power........which is what is wanted in a woods bike. if your not able to afford the coolhead, save your money....the spacer plate is only going to give you another area to form a air leak and melt the motor. I would personally never decide to run a new/used crank without having it welded......fuck that....saving $65 for weld could cost you an ENTIRE motor when shit hits the fan.

a title for starters. after that....cracks, or bends in the frame, broken welds, tweaked a-arms, bad ball-joints and tie rods and bushings.

We have had A LOT of problems involving new stators from Ricky Stator and from RM Stator. We've seen em come straight out of the box being bad......or last maybe a month....just to leave people stranded out riding. Also....did you check to make sure your choke tube was hooked up when you reinstalled your carbs? Carb bowls on correctly (side specific....little brass bb belongs on the choke side) are the carb slides in correctly (half moon cut out on slide facing air box) Also does your bike have the TORS removed? If not, try unplugging the little black box under the left front side of your fuel tank and unplug the two large boxes connected to your carbs. The brain s tend to go bad and cause all SORTS of hell.

Camatv does stock trans mods. Lockup clutches allow the fibers to be clamped together harder as rpm increases. Over-ride Trans's are meant for drag racing (however there are a few people who run a dunable over-ride in trails which is slightly more forgiving) the reason being is that you can shift while under full load of the motor....without clutching. However there is one thing that is not a good idea with it.....and that is back-loading. Back-loading is when you downshift and release the clutch to allow the motor to assist in braking. Also called dynamic braking. There are 2 possibilities when it comes to a lockup. One being a direct drive style and one being a gigot slingshot. The direct drive style uses bolts/nuts as weights and uses rotating speed to pull the arms up and press harder on the clutch pack. The weights are changed by replacing the bolts/nuts. The gigot slingshot mounts under your stock cover (sometimes a little grinding of some nubs is required) and uses ball bearings to set the strength of the pressure on the clutch pack. To ease the pressure, just remove one of the 2 balls per slot. if that's still too much you can remove all the ball bearings from EVERY OTHER slot. Very adjustable. Hope the info has helped. Jereme

and what do the sides of the pistons look like? do you have an aftermarket stator? anything from Ricky Stator or Trinity?

The long rod supposedly puts less stress on the cylinder walls when the crank rotates as it does not allow the angles of the rods to get too aggressive as to let the piston push into the wall. There have been guys who said it doesn't matter and there have been guys who says you shouldn't buy a crank without it being a long rod. Personal opinion......no matter what....if you don't take your time and do your research.......it wont matter if its a long or short rod crank when it spits it out.....

Where exactly are you located. Chances are someone on here lives around you. If you let us know where you live, we could let you know where we are and you could do the ride of shame with the bike in the back of a truck to get to someone who knows what they're doing. Then we can show you that it takes longer for you to load the bike than for us to align the clutch. It can be slightly confusing.....wont lie about that....especially when trying to take info from online.

where did you find this so called "mechanic?" Im betting either he didn't hold the throttle wide open for the test or I get he only kicked it over about 3 times........these are reed valve 2 stroke motors.....to do a compression test on them requires kicking the motor over until the needle quits climbing.....which is usually about 15-20 kicks. This guy doesn't sound like a banshee specific atv mechanic.......is he even an atv mechanic?

hey look at that....typical new guy/younger generation.........want the answer given to them, but don't want to let anyone know what the result was. This is why they're going to fail at running this world.......we have a problem, we research, find the problem, let everyone know the problem and the repair. Makes good info to learn from.........but they just wanna know whats wrong so they can fix it and then tell the world to fuck off. Cant wait to see what happens when they start whining and can't find info to fix they're problems.

Windycityjohn has some good dealings with open pods and not having problems. That guy has described putting his bike through stuff that I wouldn't take my womans 4stroke through much less my banshee. Im also picky about my motor.....ive run through mud, sand, and dust so fine and dense that I had to stop and wait for my riding buddy to get AT LEAST 1/2 mile ahead of me......never had a problem. The one thing you MAY want to do.....if your constantly jumping your bike or taking hard hits.....find a way to make/fab up a bracket to support your pods. I took a HARD hit last year on the year and knocked a pod off.....leaned me right out and started to melt a piston at the last ride of the season.