Jereme6655

any of our site sponsors carry them. I got mine through FAST (farmandsandtoys.com) Jeff will take good care of you

the banshee is the easiest 2 stroke to tear into (bottom end) in my opinion. But you have a few flaws in your building knowledge..... First....the stock suspension is terrible. Try upgrading to at least some Works dual rate shocks up front and have the rear shock rebuilt my So Cal Suspension (matt is a sponsor here) Second....DO NOT bore the jugs out for more power based on diameter of pistons.....you wont gain power.....only lose the ability to bore larger when failures happen. 4strokes gain power by boring, 2 strokes gain power by porting. After new carbs are purchased you need to upgrade your intake (to fit the larger carb mouth) and a throttle cable. Then jet the carb to your bikes needs. +4mil, +7mil, +10mil and so on.....refer to the amount of longer stroke of your connecting rods due to your crank. So a +4mil will push your piston up an additional 2 mm and pull your piston down an additional 2 mm. its early and I don't have enough coffee in me to remember what the stock stroke length is off the top of my head......somewhere around 115 I think. -- +4 mil is the only stroker crank that you can drop into stock cases.......if you want to use a larger crank you will need to have your cases trenched out to fit the crank by one of our site sponsors. My advice would be to look for a ported 421 motor. Serval motors are more low end grunt all around motors..........cub motors are drag racing motors so their power is top end peaky. I would suggest finding a motor that is pre-built as you can spend some serious money on a motor and then still want a little more. Usually it winds up being cheaper when you purchase it already built from someone.........BUT I would suggest tearing into it and going through it with a fine tooth comb after you purchase it to avoid having it blow up because someone overlooked something that shouldn't have been overlooked.

have you changed your jetting for the pipes already? if not then you have more than likely found your issue. Aftermarket pipes allow the motor to breathe better so you need to increase the amount of fuel your carbs dish out. INCLUDING your pilot jet, which is what aids in starting your bike. Stock is a 25 pilot......try and jump it up to a 27.5

you wont be able to do it. That will make too much compression and you can't put enough octane booster in your fuel to compensate. What people fail to realize with octane booster is.......yes it raises your octane.....BUT it raises it such a small amount that it doesn't even change your octane number.......its a gimmick. not to mention that with 18cc domes you would be pumping such compession that you would need to run alky.....not race fuel. why do you say 22cc domes are hard to come by? i can pick up my phone and have a set in route to my house later today.......you just have to call one of our site sponsors.......and its WAY cheaper to pay the $60 they want for domes than it is to try running those 18cc domes and have to rebuild your motor and replace your crank.

wait......you say its jetted for cold temps, but your out there taking the video and it doesn't look cold. Is it jetted for cold or for warm. OR is it jetted CORRECTLY for the current temps. That idle sounds low to me.........Id check jetting first then id raise that idle.......these are 2 strokes....not 4 strokes. They need rpm to run.

banshee's dont make white smoke from the exhaust.....it makes blue smoke. Burning coolant makes exhaust smoke white. OR your jetting was off and you leaned it out too much and started to melt a piston. Theres also a possibilty that what your seeing around the plug is actually burned oil from your cylinder.....which means your spark plug is loose. Either meaning you leaned it out from an air leak or you have a detonation problem due to too much compression and not enough octane in the fuel. What mods are on your bike and what is your jetting and elevation and weather that your riding in?

well depending on some circumstances.......it could be your fault or it could be the builders fault. 1) just cause the electrode is missing off of your plug....doesn't mean it shattered off........if things get too hot, they will also melt off. 2) it may HAVE broken off.....but then you have to wonder why.....if it did break off is detonation the culprit. 3) if detonation is the culprit.......are you running a high enough octane fuel to ensure detonation is not a possibility. There are alot of different things to look into here. My guess is that you didn't have enough octane and you detonated the motor so hard that things broke. Did your builder tell you what kind of fuel to run? What was your compression? What is your elevation? 22cc domes on a 4mil can jump the compression up pretty quick and can be higher than what pump fuel can support....

You actually want the rubbery kinda gummy texture but you want something that is oil AND gas safe. The vibrations will actually rattle cracks into the rock hard stuff. You should only need one tube of the case sealant from Jeff as the stuff goes a LONG way......ive split my motor 3 times and my buddies 3 times and I still have a little more than half of a tube left. You don't wind up using that much on the cases.

no rtv......SOME people will say that it works for them and that its fine to use...blah blah blah. But you wont find any of our site sponsors using it to seal cases up period. On gaskets such as the clutch gaskets, I usually take a little grease and wipe a thin layer on those....that way they still seal, and are able to be removed gently and reused. The exception is the reed gaskets. If you talk to Jeff he will also tell you to watch out for the cylinder to reed cage gasket. IF they leak there during your leak down, just pull the reeds off and then use a layer of the case sealant and reapply the gaskets. Yes there is a downside of using the reed gaskets with case sealant.......there is a 90% chance that you will need new ones when you remove them. I usually replace them no matter what........but as a side note, try and find a powersports store and see if they can order some for you. The powersports store near me can order them in a 5-pack of gaskets for $7.......

try running it on +4......USUALLY the only people you see running that much timing are guys running them on alky.

well....you could have had an airleak develop....its rare to find a motor that was sealed begin to leak....but it IS possible. Also running a motor at WOT with too lean of a main jet (which controls 3/4-wide open) can melt it down. Yes doing plug chops is a HUGE part of tuning.....but if your tuning it on the ragged edge of being a balance of perfect and lean.....it can be too much for long pulls. You did mention a pingle.....that is a good possibility that you can't supply enough fuel/oil mix while your running your motor hard. Have Jeff check out your porting and let you know what type of port job it has. ALSO.....check your gas cap....if it still has the roll over valve inside of it (flip cap over and look at bottom....remove the 3 screws and literally pull all the guts out and throw everything away). I have been told multiple times by Jeff to gut the cap as it will limit the flow of fuel in any built up motor on the banshee. while your at it I would suggest pulling your current fuel valve out of the tank and making positively sure that the screen in the tank is clear and debris free. Let us know if you have any other questions or info on what could have happened. On a side note....whenever a 2 stroke motor burns down you should make sure to do a compression test AND a leakdown test to help ensure the possibility of an air leak.

Namura is actually the OEM brand if im not mistaken. Also I bet that your namura pistons shattered because they were cast pistons and more than likely the person who bored them, tolerance them for forged pistons. Cast and Forged pistons both heat at different speeds causing more/less swelling of the pistons. Wrong tolerances and it'll bite hard and scare or flop sloppy and shatter skirts. Why not just get Wiseco and be done with it? They're proven to be a damn good piston and able to take the abuse. Im not saying the other pistons mentioned are no good......just saying that Wiseco seems to be way more common and proven to be able to be beat on. I run Wiseco in my bike. Never had a problem with them. Call Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing (farmandsandtoys.com) and have him hook you up. He's got the cheapest price Ive found on wiseco pistons.

if it revved all on its own then that's a sign of a air leak leaning your bike out. build a leakdown tester.....you can build em for about $10 and you'll KNOW when you have the motor back together the right way.....

yep...gotta hold that throttle wide open then kick until the needle stops moving.

its CLOSE to being easy to work on. Bikes are actually harder in my eyes because bike cases separate side to side and the banshee cases separate from top/bottom. However when you go to separate them MAKE SURE you don't just start beating the cases apart as there is a bearing retainer that looks like a half moon that connects the top case and bottom case. Other than that these are some of the easiest bikes to wrench on. Just some of the harder bikes to tune....hahaha.... But if you have half a sense of what a wrench is and a clymers manual....you'll do fine. Also do some SERIOUS reading on the website here and you'll learn a lot. There are some of us who give great advise......until you ignore our warnings......then you're all out on your own hahaha. Jereme

So.....if I understand you correctly....you are able to tell your compression based on the amount of output from your exhaust? That.....has WAY too many variances that its got to be one of the dumbest things ive heard. Ill give you a couple examples just to prove it. Im not calling you a dumbass....just examples of what could happen. 1) You ride through a mud puddle and plug up one pod style air filter........oops...oh shit....it cant breathe as much and therefore wont output as much. 2) You suck as tuning your carbs and one of your carbs is way out of wack and isn't getting as much air through it.....resulting again in less exhaust pressure.

aztwin........yes there are a lot of knowledgeable guys on here, yes we do help, but yes we do get irritated when people ignore the correct ways to ensure they're bike runs good and jump steps. We've all seen it before and then theres a guy with a chip on his should who wont shut up about how we helped blow up his motor. So yes, we have a tendency to get rough sometimes with some people tht seem like they may jump steps. To do a leak down test you need to get caps or plugs that will plug both exhaust ports shut air tight. There is a thread on here (I believe in the technical page) that shows exactly how to build the tester. When it comes time to do the test......you want to pressurize your motor to ONLY 6psi. Then watch the pressure.......if it drops you have a leak. What you are WANTING to see is 6psi holding for 6minutes. What is acceptable is to start at 6psi and to lose not more than 1psi per minute of the test. If you start to lose pressure grab a spray bottle with some dish soap and water in it and start spraying.......you WILL find the leak with the bubbles. This test is to ensure you have an air tight motor and will help you diagnose problems. You don't want to be running massive sized jets to "overcome" an air leak........that's asking for a bigger problem. We like to build things right and have them last......

m67......they don't just stick to the taper.......we've seen severe cases where its even pulled out quite large chuncks out of the taper on the crank. There have been quite a few guys on here who have discovered this. They've all tried the lapping of the tapered ends to get them to seat correctly......doesn't work.

false.....you can have a leak at your reeds, or base gaskets and it wont show on a compression test. All the compression test is going to do is indicate whether both cylinders are healthy in relation to each other and to HELP aid in choosing an octane rating for fuel. NOW....a leakdown test is totally different in terms of a healthy bike. As 2strokes need fuel mixed with oil to lubricate......air causes extra internal temps which do all sorts of odd things to motors from melting pistons, to punching a connecting rod out the bottom. You cant tell by riding it if it has an air leak and is being compensated for with huge jets. I mean shit......I run a dune/play port, vf2 reeds, k&n pods, 20cc domes, and fmf fatties, and I am running fresh 93 and am running 330 main jets at 80* and 1100'

there's been speculation.......but no real definitive answers.

Colby is right.....you'd be all over the board with your timings and it wouldn't want to run right.

What sheerider is talking about is the "washers" (which are actually dampeners) that go between the bolt head and the motor case.....it looks like its 3/4 of a washer as it is not a compelte circle.

Does driveline even allow personal bikes on their dyno for tuning? I thought they only allowed use for clutch component testing?

Been kickin around the idea of takin my bike to a dyno here in Michigan. Its got a slight breakup in the mid rpm and I also would like to know what and where im making the power. I know there are a few dynos here......but im wondering if anyone can suggest one? Also.....I know that Labaron Powersports has one.....but I can't remember if I had heard good about them on here or if they were one to steer clear from? Anyone know?

Don't bother with the conversion....it's worthless and in the end your still going to hate the way your bike rides. Only if you do it, you'll also be putting added stress on parts that are not meant to handle stress due to the longer shock size. Just get ACTUAL aftermarket banshee shocks. Yea...I know the bill is a tough one to handle for just shocks.......but if money is a concern then get some Works aftermarket dual stage or triple stage shocks that are used and have them reworked for you. Exactly what I did and my bike now rides a LOT better.