Jereme6655

and also check your basket for grooves.......if its grooved it can hang up

also make sure to line up the hub and pressure plate arrows.

have you tried turning the idle up on that cylinder? could be just that the idle is too low and is not feeding any fuel at idle

yes you will notice a big difference in power. Word to the wise.....porting on banshee's is done in the jug ports......not the head. Also...there is porting for 2 strokes.....not port/polish. As to where you should be against a 686 4stroke.......you shouldn't have a problem with noticing.......but your banshee "should" have no problem in figuring out the performance aspect.

FAST...... jeff has done plenty for me over the years. I'm always shocked that he calls back WAY after his business hours just to try and get some of the work load down. Guy eats sleeps and breathes these bikes.

still not enough man. Trust us...we been there. The gaskets cannot be reused. New domes are about $75. Your "new" stock clutch is going to get raped within the first year so your gonna need to beef it up. Your also forgetting shipping, tranny fluid, the pancake bearing. Its going to be more than your expecting..... and again.....when I said expect about $300 for the rebuild portion I meant expect about $300 for the rebuild......you can't just throw a set of wiseco pistons in and run it.....you have to bore and hone.

save up your money......with $900 your not gonna get everything you need. Vito's crank is $430, plus figure $300 for boring and pistons, seal kit $25, case sealer $10, new clutch to handle power $100..............that right there is gonna be close to $900 counting shipping.

FAST racing didn't engrave my cylinders when they ported them.

HOLY SNOP! Where the hell you been hiding man!?!

you don't bore a 2 stroke for power......you gain almost nothing. You save the bores for when it needs rebuilds......and it will need rebuilds. Again.....don't bore for power....there is none...........4strokes make power by boring, not 2 strokes.

depends on the lexan thickness...but I don't see why it would not hold the pressure....there's not THAT much pressure..... my vf 2's are about 5 years old....no problems. Yes if they fray badly or break, then yes, they will cause performance issues. As far as how to "cc" the head.....screw some plugs in it, then find a piece of that lexan or plexiglass and drill a small hole in it....... Next grab some grease, and then squeeze that head onto the piece of plexi/lexan. Make sure the hole that you drilled is near the edge of the dome in the head. Then its a matter of filling from a known container amount and measure what you have left in the container after you have filled the dome.

Hey guys..... so last winter I built a motor for my buddy. 421 serval from FAST. fmf pipes, boysen reeds, stock carbs.........pipes and carbs will be next on the list of goodies. Problem is.....we ride wide open trails.....he spends a majority of his time in the 5th to 6th gear range. Right now he is running 20" rear tires and 1st gear is useless.......spins the piss right out of them. He's also topping 6th out and getting slightly bored with the speed..... My question......do you guys believe that the serval motor has enough to pull with a 16 tooth?

grade 8 is a sae rating if I remember correctly........the metric equivalent is a 10.6 like pastry said....

red Loctite is fine....you'll still be able to get things out when you need them. Also maybe you should buy a torque wrench and a clymers manual. With proper torque and red Loctite, things wont rattle loose.

your blowin your tires off. Watch it happen every time i ride. I ride a dune/play port from FAST, fmf's and a few bolt ons and my buddy runs a 421 serval from FAST. Every single time we just cruise down a dirt road we always wind up messin with each other. Always winds up leading to us givin it hell and seeing who wins. I manage to keep up side by side to him up until the bottom of 5th. That's only because whenever he hammers it i watch him just spin and spin up til 4th. I believe next time we go riding he is going to raise the front gear one tooth to give him a little less low end grunt and try and trade it off to the top end some.

yea its lucky to be able to have turbo blue just down the street here too......right up until you pull up and look at its $7.50 a gallon....

FIRST.....these bikes are RECOMMENDED to be run on A premium fuel (by premium they mean a quality fuel) with a stock compression of approximately 125psi. Second....When you up compression you DO raise some combustion chamber temperatures......but who the fuck said that race fuel burns "cooler".........its not because you need a "cooler burning fuel"..........higher octane fuel is MORE STABLE.....so it is less prone to spontaneous combustion due to excess heat which can be caused by high pressure or high heat. Third......19cc domes are USUALLY high compression, high octane domes...........BUT there is no specific "this is a race fuel dome only".........there are too many variables based on motors, weather and elevations. NOW......you haven't mentioned whether you have some EXTREME porting or whether you live way up at the top of a mountain........but 19cc domes and 135psi usually don't go together. I am running 20cc domes and kicking over 152psi and I am still on 93 fuel. And that is with porting. With 19's in there I was well into the 170's. Now........go figure out why your motor is making low compression. weather it be altitude or you forgetting to hold the damn throttle open during a compression test.......there's something wrong with your numbers.

you hate putting the cylinders over top of the piston rings? Why....that's freaking EASY to get them to drop over the rings......

Hey Fastass.....when it shut off.....did it sound like it stumbled then stalled or did it sound like it locked HARD......just curious as it may help with the diagnosis.... And where do you ride at? Im in Fraser and ride in Mio. Jereme

wait wait wait......First thing is to tighten those caps back up. You don't want to CAUSE an air leak and melt a piston. You said in your OP that you decided to do some maintenance and then it started acting up. Check that your carb slides are in the correct carbs as you can put them in the opposite carb and they will line up backwards.....remember....half moon cut out on the slides should face the rear of the bike. ALSO.....you say you have a k&n filter.......and you said you cleaned it......that brings me some concern as you say after the maintenance is when it started fighting you. You may have (as many people tend to do) oiled your filter too much, which is restricting air (which could be why loosening your caps and CAUSING an air leak seemed to make it want to run better. Reclean your filter and then put a LIGHT coat of the filter oil on it.......

drain carbs, and I usually put a little oil down each cylinder and slowly roll the motor over. I also use atv lifts to take the weight off the tires and suspension while its put away for the winter. Also I usually change the trans oil for winter storage......not because it helps or anything......usually its a little nicer temp and also it winds up being one last thing you have to deal with when spring rolls around.

troll....

well here is the problem your going to come about with......going with a 4mil stroker is great.....however if you don't get the cylinders ported (intake and exhaust ports changed) specifically to what a 4mil likes.......you will wind up with a 4mil motor that makes about as much power as a mild ported stock crank bike. IF you do decide to get a port job done for the 4mil crank....there is a high probability that it will not be able to be ported to a 10mil. (there is no point in going to a 7mil crank....they have been known to not lay down that much more power based on price) My suggestion......call Jeff at FAST racing (farmandsandtoys.com) and talk with him....and think about getting a stock stroke port job done for the time being....and when your ready, get yourself a different top end such as a serval or a cub top end which will really wake that bike up once paired with a 4mil crank. (serval is all around style power and a cub is more top end drag power) Jeff ported my bike and has a GREAT ability to understand what kind of power you are looking for. I told him I wanted mid throttle bang as I like to ride wide open trails and get a thrill of being able to force a powerslide......that being said....all that is warranted now on the trails is a flick of the throttle and the bike wakes up and swings wide. I could have gone larger, yes, however....I still find myself struggling to be able to warrant a larger motor. Also jeff has the lowest prices I have been able to find when it comes time for a rebuild.....cheapest prices on a set of Wiseco pro-lite pistons that I can find. Give him a call....he'll do you no wrong. Ive had him call me WAY after his shop hours to get a feel for what I want and to let me know how things were going with my motor. Hell.....he even remembers me and asks me how I still feel about my motor (remembering what motor I have) when I call for parts for other motors. He's one hell of a guy. Jereme

believe it or not its the easiest choice......call your a few sponsors and see which one you feel most comfortable with by talking to them. When you do, ask them what kind of port job they recommend. They will ask you where/what kinda stuff you ride in and will give their professional opinion on what work they believe you need.

it depends on a lot more than just stroke......along with the extra stroke, you will need a different head to allow the pistons to go that much farther up. Your builder would be able to let you know more based on your engine work/porting if race fuel is required. However you can have them built to run on it, or on just pump fuel. Hell you can even have it done up to where you need alky to run....