Jereme6655

Personally…to me…..I’d richer that up. It appears to be already on the ragged edge of lean. Granted this is just my opinion. But I also don’t like rejetting mid day when the temps come up. But in a serious note….im not a fan of that light of jetting marks at all.

Ya he’s asking if minkia sold you them “ported cylinders”…... Dudes a real shit bag ….dont shit like that for YEARS….

Seriously? The smog equipment?!? Just remember folks…. These are the “trained professional” doing what they were trained to do. Fucking unbelievable………. And these people are allowed to vote and breed….. good lord….

The numbers on the sync tool are not really a technical ported vacuum number. The numbers there are just to allow the user to visually verify the carbs are flowing the same amount of air.

I’m assuming your father in law is into older cars….. im guessing he’s asking what your intake vacuum is at……which banshees don’t have intake manifolds which makes running a vacuum gauge for tuning purposes useless.

It also won’t matter how much fuel you’re getting if you’re compression in that cylinder is in the shitter….

J-arms ended in the late 80s. Where are you reading your vin # from?

Who assembled the engine? Did it get leakdown tested? High idle can be cause by an air leak….. and considering it’s a new motor….. it may be lowering the idle when in gear because of slight mis-adjustment on the clutch side of things

First, wash the bike excessively. We can’t tell you how many times we’ve seen people thinking it’s an oil leak….. when in reality, it’s their carbs leaking mixed fuel onto the top case, and draining through the cases drain hole and evaporating, leaving the oil to weep onto the studs you’re speaking of. check that first

Elevation and temperature are needed to help out with a starting point. Also when you say FMF muffler, are you referring to FMF expansion chamber pipes, or just the silencer?

Did you do the porting yourself? I have a VERY similar setup as you described. I had a site sponsor do the port work for me and sent me domes (I told him I wanted to stay on 93 pump fuel)….he originally sent me 19cc domes BUT….he wanted me to let him know the compression levels. When I called him back (if I remember right) I was around 170ish…..and he immediately sent me different domes to get my compression down to about 155. He said it MIGHT run okay at 170 on pump….. but that number was too high for his comfort on pump fuel. for reference I am running a dune/play port, fmf fattys, k&n pods, +4 timing, and a cool head. I’ve never backed a plug out or had any shake loose. In fact I’ve only seen them back out because of deto on two different machines.

Still sounds like a deto issue to me if you’re shaking plugs loose. Just because you tried a higher octane doesn’t mean that the knockoff domes are cut correctly. The squish could be way off, the dome angle could be off….. it could have a wicked ridge creating a hot spot…… and 170psi is no joke…. That’s right on the ragged edge of 93 to the point that everything has to be perfect to not have problems…. Point is …When you’re squeezing things that hard….. things get weird. Shit look at diesel….. it’s essentially a fuel oil…. But runs in an engine with enough squeeze You know that you don’t trust those Chinese domes….. so just go the right way and call your builder and get some quality domes in that machine

Your bike will run +4 timing fine without any more modifications. There are different amounts that can be shaved off the stock head….. that’s why I say to send it with your cylinders to a site sponsor. These guys have been doing it forever and will be able to shave the head to what your motor is ported for. Take too much off because you had a regular machine shop do it, and you could be asking for a nightmare of problems….. like detonation, improper squish, etc…..

You can get your head shaved through any of the reputable site sponsors on here…. They can take care of that while they do your port work

Why are you so worried about splitting the cases? They split too and bottom….if you flip it upside down, you don’t even need to remove the top end…….ive seen guys replace trans parts in campground sites in just a couple hours start to finish….

You say your petcock was plugged….. that can limit the amount of fuel which carries your oil to lubricate your engine…….so you could have blown your top end. That’s why it’s important that we know what your compression is, what mods/jetting your bike has, and what a leak down test shows before you start tearing things apart before you know the true cause….

First, let’s be realistic….if you have a banshee from ‘89 that would start first kick cold….it was a unicorn. That’s not a realistic goal……. I’m not saying yours didn’t start first kick…. I’m just saying it doesn’t happen. now….. onto the not starting at all part……since it seems like you’ve just started replacing everything….lets start simple. first, do a compression test. second, do a leak down test.

Man…..I won’t lie 220 seems way lean for pipes. You also say the carbs were upgraded….. what were they upgraded too??? pull the plugs and pop the head off and show us photos of the tops of the pistons and the electrodes on the spark plugs…..

What has/had been done to the motor in terms of modifications? Performance parts? What was the jetting? What oil and ration were you mixing the gas at? Like Loco said….full rebuild top to bottom time on the engine.

Naw man…you mean to tell me there’sother ways than digging up 9 year old posts?!? Hahaha

I’m in Michigan also. And yes, the clutches will stick together in our enforcement. Usually a couple kicks is all it takes to free them up

Drain oil. Refill. Test run bike. Check oil for contamination again. Clutch fibers sticking together is common after storage. Hold clutch in and kick start bike. It’ll free up in a hurry. Realistically, if you hold the front brake and kick the motor over, it will free the clutch fibers from themselves

Just randomly doing up a 14 year old post for what purpose???

These are 2 strokes man…..they’re sloppy, greasy and fun to ride. They’re not the damn space shuttle……

To be honest….call a site sponsor and talk to them and get their opinion. I prefer Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing. Don’t forget you’ll be needing case sealant and crank seals as well. Jeff has on his website that rebuilds of single cylinders start at $200……. he also has hot rods stock stroke cranks listed at $480 that they verify true and weld at no charge before shipping to you.