BANSHEE HP

9* is a blaster and also only made in bigbore, 13* is a banshee.

dont have any good pics, the inside 2 inches of the wheel are machined down just to hold the bearing, so the spokes are on the outer 2inches of the 4 inch spindle, and heres one bad pic http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z463/wtscheel/laborday2010scott.jpg

sandtoys 8 spoke come with 5/8 bearings, they can switch them to banshee spindles tho, ive got them for banshee spindles and theres no spacers.

good seller, and a very nice product

1/4 inch will fit tight no hose clamps, 5/16 will work but need small hose clamps, buy 2 feet of either and that will be enough.

generally yes, but it would depend on a few other things like squish band width, uccr compression,bore size. if its a 68mm bore like said above most ppl are between .047-.055.

.050 sounds good to me

not DG's at all.... power pros

first off cases are line bored so mis matching a top and bottum case is not a good idea, second the journals on the cases pictured are garbage they are all chattered up no crank would have stood a chance. were the top and bottum cases even a matching pair to begein with?

if the bearing journals on the cases are all whooped out then no crank will ever last more then a minute, take the crank out inspect the cases take pics for us.

ive seen a WSM crank stock stroke, the "welds", the welds were done with the bearings on the crank so they were almost just tac welds and you could see the slight burn on the beariing indicating where it had been welded. cheaply made imo, but tdr may do/request different bearings, rods, welds. also as far as i know WSM cranks have only been out for a banshee for maybe a year, Cam's may be a different brand all together

man ive got $1200 sittin in a box in my garages attic....

looks like a dyno-port, should be a label plate on the outside of the pipe. if not im still 99% thats its a dyno-port.

i found a nice 8 point that same way a few years back,went down to the river to take a piss, while standing on the shore i see half the rack outta the water, no gun or arrow holes maybe a car.

"only one cylinder at a time".... in my head (imagination land) i see the pulses getting messed up by eachother in one pipe.... but ive got a little bit of info that led me not to believe that there is no(major) interference between multiple pulses in one expanison chamber. of course we know that snowmobiles have been using 2 into 1 pipes for along time, and that dans turbo bike has set amazing records with twin scimitar with 2 into1 pipe, thats a little of the more obvious examples. during the testing of this pipe for shitz n giggles we put the pipe on a twin-gle crank bike(instead of the crank being 180degrees, both rods/pistons are at tdc and bdc at the same, firing both cylinders at the same time every 360degrees), the bike ran fine at idle but when reved it would bog horribly from both pistons firing at the same time and "double stuffing" the pipe. when the twin-gle bike had regular pipes(fmf) on it would rev like normal because both cylinders had there own pipe to fill, it was easy to see that if both pulses enter the(1) expansion chamber at the same time "double stuffing" the pipe the engine will not run anywhere near decent, on a normal 180degree crank there doesn't seem to be interfernce of pulse charges.

shoot for about 155-160psi, your rpms will increase alot dropping from 200psi which is what u want in a 1/8 asphalt race.

i dont have any affliation to these cranks.... i just know the guy who imports the crank parts, to my understanding he has stock/money or whatever invested in the factory that forges the webs. i know they've been shopped around to many shops around the country,prolly from ads in the back of dirt wheels M&M and wicked have, i talked to ray from motorcity atv earlier this summer and the crank subject came up and he mentions the same guy has been selling him cranks for awhile. ive seen 2 in person stk stroke and 4mm long rod both welded and pinned, they both were very tru .001 run out on both i believe, not a fan or the o-ringed bearings that come stock on them, i dont know about tensile strength of any rods but these are thinner then some, the welds are not the best but you could say they were "welded" if you selling them. imo they would make a decent stock replacment crank, for high hp setups i would recommend what M&M said and get them un-welded and get better bearings put on them.

cheap bearings... and the side rod clearance should be like .020-.024 or so yours is coming apart.

tru, u can have a few different things done to these cranks if your the person ordering them, like pinning the center of the crank so it doesnt twist outta phase, welding pins, if you pay more you can get a better bearings the ones that come on the crank, the o-ringed bearings that come on those cranks are 4$ a piece less at manufacturer level(like then a standard 8-ball jap bearing with pin ,the webs are all the same, the rods are all the same except for length 110 115 117 and there may even have been a 120 but i foget. imo cranks should come welded, keyed, and come with highest qaulity bearings and rods without paying extra for them...... o and the guy is deffently chinese(not that it matters at all)

also the same crank that m&m atv and wicked atv are selling.

the pipes pulls very hard through low, mid and top. of course will not compare to (sum) twins top end but for a 2into1 pipe it pulls my big ass very well. if you ride in tight areas or places where u have to shift constanly up and down this pipe will perform great, while testing this pipe in dunes vs. twins, we found that with twins youd have to get a good running start at the bottum of the hill and the farther u get up the hill your down shifting to keep the rpms up in the powerband, with the 2 into 1 you could put the bike in say 3rd gear and ride sorta like a 4-stroke right up the same dune at a slower speed with out haveing to do a bunch of shifting. also its very easy to stay on the pipe compared to twins, example: on a long straight away get your bike up to 5 or 6 gear then yet outta the thottle and coast till youd think u should down shirt a gear or 2 to get back in the high rpms, with twins youll have a lag where rpms are being built back up slowly becuase your going to slow for 5 or 6th gear, with the 2 into 1 the lag is almost non-existent the bike will be back on the pipe in no time, because of the added back pressure caused from only one expansion chamber to fill. p.s. the video that was posted at the beginning on this thread was done by 2 people that purchased this pipe, they in NO WAY have worked on any part of the r&d process of this pipe which goes back 2 years, if it was made known to me there was going to be a promo video hours after they purchased it ,it would not have been sold to them, .

its a stock bike, what is a all mighty dune pipe?

do you think itll run better with that screw there? the bike pulls to the left, maybe cuz its missing that screw and the bike is outta balance

its a shit hole lately, most of it closed off comapered to the 90's, if its not muddy its dusty,wouldnt take your rzr there at all.

broken tab underneath there. no where to put a screw...