n2otoofast4u

Ok, so I took a closer look. The one button is going to be built into the perch setup that has the gauge setup. That will be the shift button.. is there any parts on that on that component that go to others. It looks like it goes to a solenoid, making it an air over electric setup. The other switch should be added on? That will be the nitrous switch. Honestly there isn't a one of those things gonna do you any good without some others.. if you don't have a good knowledge of both you ate probably better off removing them.. if that's not an option, then I will help as much as I can but there's nothing good about that current setup unless its got an override and a few other things.

Ok stop! Does the bike have an override? Is there a solenoid at all involved with the shifted system? That appears to be a compressed air set, not an inert gas setup. If you have no override, is there any wires going to the coil cdi or anything else? Take an air compressor and put air in the valve on the bars to 100psi and listen/watch/look for any leaks... do not touch anything! Just report back with answers to my other questions, and whether or not the system leaks... you can ruin parts at a stand still if you aren't careful... ok, now the battery and nitrous... does the battery have wires to anything but stuff that is wired to the nitrous? One solenoid is a cold fusion and the other is maybe a dyno tune, or maybe a ? Hell who knows dyno tune? At any rate. Post a pic of the nozzle setup. There are tons of things that need to looked at on that entire bike.. nothing you can't get through but you can cause great harm by doing something that you shouldn't... also, are there fancy electronics on the bike? Dyna cdi, or extra rectifiers or anything? ?

It's roughly twice what pc is for the long rigids... not quite that much but close...

There were a few guy in the shout box talking about this stuff so I thought Id post some of the pics of the stuff that we've had done.. There are FAR more things that the carbon fiber than can be done, just about anything you can thing really.. Just seemed that the CF was a good look in these applications.. It can be put onto nearly anything, is durable, and looks very custom!

Do you strictly drag race, or is a dune bike that will see more than just 300' passes? If its a dune bike I would either lower it, or open the front up especially if its on gas.. On alky you might get it to work but I doubt it. If you are just drag racing you will be fine.. We dont even run radiators on out drag bikes..

My lord, all of this over some hose clamps?? I just get tired of the picture thing.. You could write "I have a brand new cylinder from Yamaha in the factory box, brand new never opened for sale" And you would get 10 people asking for pics... WTF for... You know what they look like.. All I was saying was that he said he needed them in a bad way, and was in a bind.. I had a solution for his problem with QUALITY parts that are proven to work that would get him going.. Thats all... Its over now.. And if you guys have a better option for him that he could have in his hands by simply walking to the mail box on Tuesday then you have more parts in stock than I do..

pingel...

We use them on both sides instead of the OEM stuff... the ones at the box itself are in fact OEM. I have those super glued on both the clamp and the box because we had trouble with them blowing iff under boost.. The other 2 seem to be fine.. The only thing I dont like about them is that they are straight screw driver, not phillips but will accept a nut driver or socket..

My god... Ill go take a pic... Im offering to send you 2 clamps that exceed OEM basically for free, and you want pics.. Looks like they just got more expensive... Hold on 5 minutes Ill post them

Yeah they are NA from yamaha.. I have some nice aftermarket ones that fit in the stock boot groove.. What is your address? How big of a rush do you need them? I can send you 2 tommorow and you would have them Wed.. Or I can order you more than just 2 and send those.. Let me know.. I know how this goes

for the stock air box? The ones at the box, or at the carb? I have have the ones at the box in stock that are factory Yamaha.. The ones at the carbs are NA through Yamaha but I have some aftermarket ones that work just ass well and are the same width. We run them on the turbo bike and the work just fine.. Let me know if I can help

HOLLY SHIT. TALK ABOUT A BALL BASHING FOR ASKING A QUESTION... OK HERES THE REAL DEAL FROM SOMEONE WHO HAS OWNED, BOUGHT, BUILT, BEEN AROUND, RACED AGAINST, ALL 3 THAT ARE IN QUESTION.... When the day is done, dollar for dollar can you build an equivelant 4 stroke for what you can a 2 stroke NO.. However, is the real world there are Raptor based buillds that will walk on damn near any and every bike owned by members of this site... (yes you dont want to believe it but there is) I would absolutely buy a 700 raptor over the 450.. The 450s are great if you want to jump, run mx, or ride short trail event but the raptors are WAY more comfortable that the 450s and there are WAY more mods out there for them.. We have an 840cc 700 based raptor that is stock framed/axle/etc than on any given weekend withh compete or be ahead of all bikes at the hill outside if the true drag bikes... Its rather fun to ride actually.. With the technology that is coming out in these you will have many years of upgrading to come that will satisfy you needs.. Will it have the 2 stroke smell? Nope But I can assure you with some basic work you will have a solid bike that will run with lots of things out there.. Companies like White Knuckle Racing have alll kinds of parts for these that range from mild to wild that will amaze even that biggest 2 stroke fan... Hope this helps..

Ive used some pretty trashed cases before.. With a bit of love and epoxy you can fix some up very nice.. Is it best case scenario, no but they often will work for yearswith no problems.. Post a couple pics...

This is SO true.. I started with 250r and have been through the whole sceen now.. I have made lots of passes on a 20mil cougar (825cc) and yeah its alright.... But as stated there was a need for more.. So we are building something bigger and with a turbo/nitrous... You will out grow anything that you build, banshees are like pants. To answer your question if you are gonna have a 4 mil ported motor, just have your builder cut you a set of domes when they do the porting.. It wont be much more than the plate and you will have a far superior setup than you would with the plate...

Why the new cases? Because of the chain break.. Save your money.. You are gonna need to send your crank and cylds to a builder to have checked out and bored BEFORE you buy pistons.. This wont cost much money, but it is the PROPER thing to do!! Let them check the crank and then true/weld it.. have them check the cylds for round, and if necassary bore them.. After that, its just a matter of going through everything, checking bearings and wearable parts etc... But you are waisting your time if you dont do it properly and not get the crank done and cylds bored...

better than stock? YES... better than most others? NOPE

so they are gonna make each set made to order? So one month after someone says that are the chit its gonna be the 35th of Neverjuary before you can get a set... Availability is nearly as important as how they work, knowing that there more than likely isnt going to be a heads and tails difference from them to another.. Is a few HP worth waitng an extended amount of time? Not for most.. JMO

Get yourself a manual. and pay close attention to things when you take it apart... On things that I take apart that have many components Ill write on the with perm marker little notes, as well as sketch a quick picture if there are multiple parts that go in a sequence.. They arent all the complicated once you start taking it apart..

The reed itself broke or it rattled the screws and the went through to motor? Generally reeds will smash up without much damage to the cyld.. I've ran honestly I bet 20 pedals through my motor and turbo before we got it figured out, but they don't do any damage..

Oh ok.. I would use a clippard style. The DMR ones do work well but like stated are pricey and can often take some time to get.. most all of the sponsors on here could get you hooked up. I use WK for my PJs but others will have them. I know WK stocks them ready to go, so if you need them in a hurry they can get them to you quick.

can you ask the question again?? I dont understand it either.. Im guessing your trying to replace some PJs, but only have 1 carbs setup for them?

Man thats really weird.. And theres no clearance issue with anything in the cylds that it could be hitting? (I would hope not, but worth a look) The 2s make more power but at this poing it might be best to try the 3s and see if you can keep those in it.. If not, try buying some stock cages (Those are 250r honda cages I think) and give some other pedals a try... My turbo bike can chew up reeds whenit want to, but I know why.. Yours shouldnt be going through them like that.

Your not seeing the big picture here.. You have NO choice but to spilt the bottom end and inspect everything if the plug was smashed closed, and there were pieces fyling around in there you have no choice.. Unless you want it to chew up your brand new pistons the very next time you start it you have to split the cases and inspect everything.. The piston isnt gonna gernade and smash plugs just from heat.. THERE ARE OTHER ISSUES!!!

More than likely the chain is skipping.. Check your sprockets as well as your chain tension... Be sure to check your sprocket hub is tight on your axle as well..

Are you sure its not running out of fuel? I have seen where if the bowls run dry and it coughs as its trying to get fuel it can and sometimes will tear up reeds real hard. Do they break completely off the cage?