banshee-mike

mine is a arm

which ones do you have?found some on ebay made by full flight for $399 and it comes with tie rods and brake lines.just dont know if they are a good brand.

my stock arms are bent so im looking to get some different ones.i do mostly trail riding and once a year dunes.im wondering which arms i should go with and if i should go wider.my shee has a wider axle in it already.

does it sound like it is hitting a rev limiter?if it does,try pusing in on the wire that goes to the parking brake on the clutch lever.

i got my synch tool from jeff and synched the carbs and it stop the problem..now both pipes smoke the same and dont know if its the cold weather out or synching the carbs but that mofo is screaming right know.thanks for all the help guys!

i synched them by just looking at the slides.i just ordered a synch tool from jeff so when it gets here ill synch them the right way and see if it helps.

ya the carbs are synched and tube is in place,

i checked coolant and its full.any other ideas?

no havent check that,if its sucking coolant what does that mean?

the left side smokes more than the right side.i have a fresh topend,320 mains,30 pilots,middle clip,air screws 1.5 out with fmf fattys and pc2s,+4 timing at sea level.could this be bad seal in the motor?the motor runs strong through all gears.

wanting to know what chain lube i can use that wont fly off and get all over my painted swingarm?i been using some lube thats messy as shit.thanks guys!

i did buy it from fast for $70 but i was including shipping.and i think the modquad would have been better because of the angle.

do you realy have it?

where is crowley,t.x?im in houston.how far away is that?im interested in them but dont know much about putting them on a banshee.

i just installed a esr temp gauge.it seems to work fine but not crazy abot the position of it.i put it in the top hose right before the rad.i could only adjust the gauge about 1/4 turn and thats it.cant twist it counter or clockwise because of the way its made.it would been ok for the bottom hose but thats not where i want it.i like the position of the top hose because i believe it gives a more accurate reading and its hidden.it is visible through the cutout of the plastics by the tank but the gauge is upside down when i look at it.not realy a big deal but i did pay $80 bucks for it.just thought i would shout about this to give yall heads up before yall bought one.

ya im new to this shiz,lol.

wtf

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have?fmf fatty and pc2s 2) What type of airfilter do you have?k&n pods 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all?no air box 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com )sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using?30 6) What size main jets are you using?320 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for?80-90 deg 8) Do you have a port job?no 9) What kind of carbs?stock with tors removed 10) What size carbs?26 mm Thanks!

i had a similar prob like that and im in texas also.the wether changed about ten to fifthteen degrees and i noticed banshee was harder to start.i screwed the air screws in a half turn and it seemed to help.i believe that by turning the air screw in it richens it up a little.

do you have the stock carbs on there?if so check the crossover hose that connects the two carbs together.

ok i have come to the conclusion that the bike isnt vibtating worse its just takeing longer for it to come to a complete idle.i also noticed that when im going slow in first gear that its bogging till i clutch it.the temperature here has dropped about 15 degrees and im wondering if that is my problem.will 15 degrees difference cause something like this?everybody says that two strokes require alot of fine tunning,maybe thats what im finding out.this is my first shee so im trying to learn as much as i can.any help is greatly appreciated.

i went ahead an ordered a esr gauge from fast.they only had silver damn it, but it will do.

oh and btw i know what you mean about eager to get it going because i put it together the first time and didnt get the stator wires out of the way of flywheel and my lights stopped working.the flywheel had cut the yellow wire into.so i pulled everything back apart and fixed it and took my time putting it back together.

i used a high torque impact to put the flywheel back on but did not sit there and hammer on it.i did the business card gap on the pick up coil. i put the split line in the cases on +4 which is turning the plate clockwise.is that right?the bike runs realy strong the way it is.it is a little harder to start now after the timing.but only have to kick it about 4 times ver 2 times before.

im running stock head on 93 octane at sea level.the timing plate is marked so im certain about the advanced.when its vibrating the boost bottle hits the pipe and that is what got my att.didnt do it before the plate but now im wondering if it has always vibrated this much and for some reason the pipe may be to close to the bottle?