CarvedArt

*** UPDATE *** BDT v2.00 A little spreadsheet (requires Excel 2007 or higher) to help Banshee owners perform many of the frequently asked calculations and tasks. Of course this is provided "as is" and without warranty or guarantee of suitability. http://www.4shared.c...al_Toolkit.html I've updated and added a few more items. The Banshee Digital Toolkit CONTENTS: 1. How to Jet a Banshee 2. Banshee Jetting Calculator 3. Jetting Sample Settings 4. Needle Jet Specs 5. How to Sync Carbs 6. Quick Specs 7. Torque Specs 8. Color Options by Year 9. VIN Decoder 10. Speed Calculator 11. Horsepower Calculator 12. Pre-Mix Ratio Calculator 13. Chain Calculator 14. Displacement Calculator 15. Engine Building Formulas 16. Port Angle Area 17. Mikuni Troubleshooting 18. Electrical Schematic 19. Banshee Jetting FAQ 20. Carburetor Theory 101

Checkout this pin: http://bansheehq.com...howtopic=133650 There are 2 schematics; the 1 at the top is complete and the 1 near the bottom shows everything that can be gutted.

For metal-to-metal bonds, like cases, I prefer ThreeBond 1211; for gasketed areas I prefer 1194. 1211 is more permanent and 1194 is semi-drying so if you apply a very thin coat to your gasketed areas it eliminates the possibility of gluing both sides of the gasket to the mating surfaces that can lead to the gasket splitting in the center. You definitely need to prep the surfaces before you apply any of these with some alcohol, contact cleaner, or similar. Here is some sealant reference: ThreeBond 1104 | Component:Synthetic Rubber | Color:Grey | Op_Temp:(-40°C to 150°C) | Dry_Time:5-min Contains lead, Replaced by 1194 Hondabond #4 | Yamabond #4 ThreeBond 1194 | Component:Synthetic Rubber | Color:Grey | Op_Temp:(-40°C to 150°C) | Dry_Time:5-min High padding property It shows an excellent sealing effect not only on normal bonded surfaces, but also on bonded surfaces with large clearance Excellent resistance to vibration and impact After applied and dried, it will form a rubber-like elastic body and exhibit excellent resistance to vibration and impact Excellent resistance to high and low temperatures It keeps stable rubber elasticity in a wide temperature range from -40°C to 150°C Excellent resistance to water and oil Effective in preventing leak from threaded portions Sealing of flange surfaces and threaded portions Applicable to sealing of flange surfaces having large clearance Suzuki Bond 1207B ThreeBond 1207B | Component:Silicone Resin | Color:Black | Op_Temp:(-60°C to 200°C) | Dry_Time:7-min Has high viscosity and excellent protuberance, and works effectively for the joint surfaces that have a larger clearance Excellent engine-oil and LLC resistance Dries quickly and offers excellent pressure resistance immediately after applying and assembling Does not corrode copper and copperbased alloys Cures even if it is left at high temperature of 120°C in uncured state Note:Slightly difficult to remove ThreeBond 1211 | Component:Silicone Resin | Color:White | Op_Temp:(-60°C to 200°C) | Dry_Time:90-min Low viscosity, fluidic, and excellent workability Can be used with solid gaskets and it can be used for temporary fixing of O rings Corrodes copper and copper-based alloys. Can not be used for copper and copper-based alloys in tightly-sealed state Hondabond HT ThreeBond 1216E | Component:Silicone Resin | Color:Grey | Op_Temp:(-60°C to 200°C) | Dry_Time:6-min Has excellent chemical resistance Has high viscosity and excellent initial resistance to pressure Has excellent resistance to heat and cold Retains the elasticity of rubber in a wide range of temperatures, from -60 to 200°C or even, briefly, to 250°C Used for sealing of surfaces such as those of oil pans of automobile engines, water pumps, and transmission cases

Good catch that should read: Ignition = BLACK + RED/BLACK

Connections: Ignition = RED + RED/BLACK Coil = ORANGE (+) & BLACK (-) Voltage Reg = BLUE + BLACK [To Frame Gnd] CDI: WHITE/GREEN > STATOR (WHITE/GREEN) WHITE/RED > STATOR (WHITE/RED) GREEN > STATOR (GREEN) RED > STATOR (RED) RED/BLACK > IGNITION (RED/BLACK) BLACK/WHITE > KILL SWITCH (BLACK/WHITE) BLACK > WIRING GRD (BLACK) ORANGE > IGN COIL (ORANGE) Stator: YELLOW > VOLTAGE REG (YELLOW) & DIMMER SWITCH (YELLOW/RED) BLACK > WIRING GRD (BLACK) Do Not Connect (Open Circuit -OR- Tether Switch): Kill Switch = BLACK/WHITE + BLACK Removable T.O.R.S. Junk: Control Unit = YELLOW/BLACK + BLACK + BLACK/WHITE Throttle switch = BLACK + BLACK/YELLOW Carb Switch A = BLACK/YELLOW + YELLOW/BLACK Carb Switch B = YELLOW/BLACK + BLACK Lighting: Headlights = GREEN + YELLOW + BLACK Taillight = BLUE + BLACK

------- INFO The stock plug cap is a 5k resistor type. ------- QUESTIONS Have you verified that you have spark? (remove the plugs from the cylinders and kick the bike over while grounding the plugs out on the head) • Then if that's good did you remove the cap and try it with just the coil wire ends? Is the TORS connected? (disconnect the little black box w/ a 3-wire connector mounted on the upper-left front cross-member of the frame just under the front of the gas tank) Are the coil wires on the correct terminals? (ORANGE (+) & BLACK (-)) ------- TESTING --- PICKUP COIL First check the Pickup Coil gap it should be between .015 - .020 (about the thickness of a matchbook cover) --- PRI COIL Test the primary coil resistance between the 2 blade connectors on the coil you should get .28 ~ .38 Ohms If the primary tests bad, replace the coil --- SEC COIL Test the secondary coil resistance between each of the blade connectors and the corresponding plug wire; each one should be between 4.7 ~ 7.1 Ohms If the secondary tests bad, remove the spark plug boots and test without them. If the secondary tests good, replace the spark plug boots. If the secondary still tests bad, replace the coil. --- STATOR If both of these are good check the stator next: Disconnect the magneto connector (4-wire; GREEN, RED, WHITE/RED, WHITE/GREEN) and check the resistance between the GREEN and RED you should get between 13.7 ~ 20.5 Ohms If the stator tests bad, replace the stator assembly.

How bout this: or this: http://www.yamahaoft...name=CARBURETOR

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Are the carb slides in right; the angled cut on the slide goes towards the air filter. Are you sure the bowls are on the right carbs; the one with the little brass "BB" goes on the choke side. Make sure the choke crossover tube is in place and not cracked-up between the carbs. Also if it has been setting for a while the oil on the air filters could jell-up and restrict the air flow too much. If the carbs are too far out of sync you could have some trouble stating. A carb rebuild would be highly recommended if the bike has been setting for years, if the fuel isn't flowing through the carbs the jets gum-up, the rubber seals rot, and the fuel breaks down causing noncombustible particulates to gather in the passages and bowls. Though not the best idea, you could remove the bowls, place a catch tray under the carbs, and spray a healthy dose of carb/break cleaner into the back of the carbs while working the slides up and down. That should clean it out enough to confirm your issue.

I think these symptoms are temperature and/or bike dependent and I currently live in the desert. I have also experienced this on some Banshees in more moderate climates such as in the mountains of PA. As far as antifreeze is concerned the "Reserve Alkalinity" (causticity) is mitigated by use of stabilizers like borax, phosphate, or silicate to prevent acidic formation in glycol-based antifreeze. However, as antifreeze ages its PH can and does change which leads to a caustic state. I wouldn't compare it to the likes of hydrochloric acid but it is definitely caustic. I use Engine Ice (who also adds an anti-corrosion agent) myself and change it bi-annually so I don't fret the PH. Please don't take offense to this because I think you're a value-added participant on this site with a lot of good advice. I just have personal experience with this issue, on multiple Banshees, not always pertaining to an overheat condition. Here's a link to some one else who's seen the same: http://kuoi.com/~john/tips.html

AK is correct, the coolant will return to the radiator on the magnitude of a couple drams which in the grand scheme of things equates to almost nothing. It can also leak by shear virtue of how it was mounted from the factory if you ever climb or descend any hills. The tank can actually gravity feed and siphon off your coolant on descents; this is the "leak" that I was referring to. It can also exhibit this same "leak" if you get on it and bring it to a halt a few times. I'm not suggesting that anyone neglect a real leak due to an overheat condition; which you should be able to both smell and feel. It's more of a personal preference to not have caustic fluid drip onto the pipes that I spent a few ducks on; I have also relocated my tank to the front of the bike to mitigate this "leak." The primary reason for Yamaha adding the tank to the Banshee's design in the first place was due to federal regulations requiring off-road vehicles comply and not pollute the environment with hazardous waste (lead being main the hazard). It was more of a compliance afterthought than a well engineered solution for coolant recovery. That being said I 100% agree with AKheathen you should NEVER ignore an actual overheat condition 2-strokes will fail faster than you can say, ding-ding-ding if mistreated.

Checkout the upper-right pic in this RZ350 Service Manual...

I have his vids referenced in the Banshee Digital Toolkit. The next version actually has the one from tealakota as well.

Just in case... #6 drill = 0.2040 13/64 drill = 0.2031

I was working on something as an addition to the Banshee Digital Toolkit; it's in Excel so it doesn't format well here and doesn't have any lengths. (There 6 columns) Part | Thread size | Nm | m·kg | ft·lb | Remarks Lower arm & Frame | M10 x 1.25 | 32 | 3.2 | 23 | Pivot shaft | M16 x 1.5 | 95 | 9.5 | 68 | Upper arm & Frame | M10 x 1.25 | 38 | 3.8 | 27 | Wheel panel & Wheel collar | M10 x 1.25 | 45 | 4.5 | 32 | Sprocket shaft collar & Driven sprocket | M8 x 1.25 | 24 | 2.4 | 17 | Steering knuckle & Castle nut | M14 x 1.5 | 85 | 8.5 | 61 | Wheel panel nut | M10 x 1.25 | 45 | 4.5 | 32 | Steering knuckle & Knuckle arm | M10 x 1.25 | 38 | 3.8 | 27 | Caliper (Front) | M8 x 1.25 | 28 | 2.8 | 20 | Brake disc (Front & Rear) | M8 x 1.25 | 28 | 2.8 | 20 | Steering knuckle & Ball joint | M10 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Ball joint (Tie-rod) & Knuckle arm | M10 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Ball joint (Tie-rod) & Steering shaft | M10 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Ball joint & Tie-rod | M10 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Steering shaft & Frame | M10 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Steering bearing bracket & Frame | M8 x 1.25 | 23 | 2.3 | 17 | Use lock washer Handlebar holder | M8 x 1.25 | 20 | 2 | 14 | Bearing holder (Steering shaft) | M42 x 1.0 | 40 | 4 | 29 | Upper & Lower arm & Frame | M10 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Front shock absorber (Upper & Lower) | M10 x 1.25 | 45 | 4.5 | 32 | Engine mount: | | | | | Frame & Front engine stay | M8 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Engine & Front engine stay | M10 x 1.25 | 45 | 4.5 | 32 | Engine & Rear engine stay | M10 x 1.25 | 45 | 4.5 | 32 | Tension rod & Engine | M10 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Tension rod & Tension rod stay | M10 x 1.25 | 45 | 4.5 | 32 | Tension rod stay & Frame | M10 x 1.25 | 45 | 4.5 | 32 | Pivot shaft | M16 x 1.5 | 85 | 8.5 | 61 | Rear shock absorber (Upper & Lower) | M10 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Relay arm & Frame | M10 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Connecting rod & Swingarm | M10 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Relay arm & connecting rod | M10 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Footrest | M10 x 1.25 | 55 | 5.5 | 40 | Caliper (Rear) | M8 x 1.25 | 23 | 2.3 | 17 | Rear axle ring nut | M33 x 1.5 | - | - | - | 1. Tighten the inside-ring nut to 55 Nm (5.5 m·kg, 40 ft·Ib) while holding the rear axle. 2. Hold the inside-ring nut and tighten the outside-ring nut to 190 Nm (19.0 m·kg, 140 ft·lb). 3. Hold the outside-ring nut and tighten back the inside-ring nut to 240 Nm (24.0 m·kg, 170 ft·lb). Rear axle & Castle nut | M14 x 1.5 | 120 | 12 | 85 | Rear hub & Swingarm (Upper) | M12 x 1.25 | 120 | 12 | 85 | (Lower) | M10 x 1.25 | 60 | 6 | 43 | Brake hose union bolt | M10 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Brake hose & Caliper | M10 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Brake hose joint & Brake pipe | M10 x 1.0 | 18 | 1.8 | 13 | Brake hose joint | M8 x 1.25 | 20 | 2 | 14 | Rear master cylinder | M8 x 1.25 | 20 | 2 | 14 | Driven sprocket | M10 x 1.25 | 60 | 6 | 43 | Chain puller & Locknut | M8 x 1.25 | 16 | 1.6 | 11 | Locknut (Rear brake caliper adjustment) | M8 x 1.25 | 16 | 1.6 | 11 | Swingarm & Swingarm guard | M8 x 1.25 | 28 | 2.8 | 20 | Fuel tank & Fuel cock | M6 x 1.0 | 5 | 0.5 | 3.6 | Bumper: (Front) | M8 x 1.25 | 23 | 2.3 | 17 | (Rear) | M8 x 1.25 | 23 | 2.3 | 17 | Master cylinder & bracket | M6 x 1.0 | 10 | 1 | 7.2 | Fender stay & Frame | M6 x 1.0 | 10 | 1 | 7.2 | Stay & Frame | M8 x 1.25 | 23 | 2.3 | 17 | Cylinder head | M8 x 1.25 | 28 | 2.8 | 20 | Cylinder | M8 x 1.25 | 28 | 2.8 | 20 | Spark plug | M14 x 1.25 | 20 | 2 | 14 | Reed valve | M3 x 0.5 | 1 | 0.1 | 0.7 | Water pump cover | M6 x 1.0 | 8 | 0.8 | 5.8 | Joint (Cylinder head) | M6 x 1.0 | 12 | 1.2 | 8 | Reed valve assembly | M6 x 1.0 | 10 | 1 | 7.2 | Primary drive gear | M16 x 1.0 | 65 | 6.5 | 47 | Clutch boss | M20 x 1.0 | 90 | 9 | 65 | Clutch spring | M6 x 1.0 | 10 | 1 | 7.2 | Drive sprocket | M18 x 1.0 | 80 | 8 | 58 | Kick crank | M8 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Shift pedal | M6 x 1.0 | 14 | 1.4 | 10 | Flywheel magneto | M12 x 1.25 | 80 | 8 | 58 | Exhaust pipe | M8 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | Silencer | M8 x 1.25 | 35 | 3.5 | 25 | Drain plug (Transmission) | M14 x 1.5 | 20 | 2 | 14 | (Coolant) | M6 x 1.0 | 14 | 1.4 | 10 | Crankcase cover ( R ) | M6 x 1.0 | 7 | 0.7 | 5.1 | ( L ) | M6 x 1.0 | 7 | 0.7 | 5.1 | Crankcase (Lower) | M8 x 1.25 | 25 | 2.5 | 18 | (Upper) | M6 x 1.0 | 10 | 1 | 7.2 | Bearing stopper plate | M6 x 1.0 | 14 | 1.4 | 10 | Apply locking agent (LOCTITE) Shift cam stopper plate | M6 x 1.0 | 14 | 1.4 | 10 | Apply locking agent (LOCTITE) Stopper lever | M6 x 1.0 | 10 | 1 | 7.2 | Apply locking agent (LOCTITE) Shift lever adjust screw | M8 x 1.25 | 30 | 3 | 22 | Apply locking agent (LOCTITE)

Apply some grease to the foam between the mating surfaces to seal the gaps and you can use a large binder clip, or similar, to secure the filter mount. You could also cut the lid up in a number of different ways: cut holes with a hole saw, cut the lid in half so that there are still mounts on the front to clamp it down, cut the entire inner area of the lid out leaving the molded filter braces, etc.

Dirt in the carbs could be from the air filter not being oiled correctly, rotting/breaking-down, or not having a good seal somewhere within your intake tract. You should be able to locate any leaks by spraying some WD-40 or similar around the outside of the intake sealing areas. If rebuild kits are not an option right now you could just use a can of carb cleaner and some compressed air--any amount of cleaning is better than no cleaning at all. Most everything in the carbs can be adequately cleaned without purchasing a rebuild kit. The kit just guarantees that everything is straight and clean. If you're careful you can disassemble your carbs without damaging any parts, soak them in some carb cleaner, scrub 'em up (with a soft cloth and/or plastic brush), blow everything out with some compressed air (if you don't have a compressor--canned air [for dusting electronics] will do the trick), and reassemble. The only thing that most likely will need replacing will be the needle valves (which you have already discovered). Here's a decent YouTube for manually syncing your carbs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpqeSpbq0PQ

Rebuilding the carbs is a great idea, that will cure your fuel continuing to run after it's off issue. That behavior is controlled by the needle valve assembly, the o-ring that seals the outer sleeve of the assembly, and the float height. They go bad from setting and/or just age. Make sure you have plenty of carb cleaner and compressed air to get all of the passages cleaned out well. Also you should be aware that the carb bowls are carb specific, the bowl with the little brass "BB" on the front goes on the carb with the choke knob. If you can swing getting a carb sync tool that will come in handy too. Where was/is the coolant leaking from? Might it be leaking from the front onto the pipe? If it's leaking from the front onto the pipe that would be coolant coming from the catch can (sometimes called the overflow tank); the little plastic tank in the back under the seat. It has a High/Low marker on it but has no way of getting coolant back into the radiator. It has a hose that runs back up to the front and purges over the pipe. You can lengthen or reroute the hose to keep it from hitting your pipe and have it "leak" where you want it to so you can tell when you actually have a real leak. Have a look at this pinned topic: Banshee Digital Toolkit it should help you to determine if your jetting is right. It also tells you how to set your floats after you replace those fuel inlet needle valves.

If you have a coolant leak you need to get that addressed first. Definitely use the factory recommended B8ES plugs or the BR8ES resister plugs. The stock plug boots already have 5kΩ resistance built-in so if you have stock or equivalent boots you don't need the R plugs. The added resistance isn't going to hurt but you don't really need it. Heat range is your bigger issue here, the 9 is a colder plug and can cause plug fouling. Unless of course you've added some serious horsepower modifications that are causing the cylinder temps to go up significantly like by about 70-100 degrees.

Here's how you should turn'em: Turn the air screw all the way in, just until it's lightly seated, then set it 1.5-turns out Slowly turn the air screw in, then out, until you find the fastest idle If the air screw is less than 1-turn from Closed, it needs a larger pilot jet If the air screw is more than 2.5-turns from Closed, it needs a smaller pilot jet Once you have determined and installed the correct pilot jet and tuned the air screw for the fastest idle Set the idle back down and ride the bike, using Closed to 1/4 throttle positions Turn the air screw slightly (1/8 of a turn) in either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open

Along with this you should make sure the carb bowls are on the right carbs; the bowl with the small brass "BB" on the lower front goes on the left carb (the carb with the choke knob) Additionally, is the choke crossover hose connected between the two carbs? The carbs also need to be synced--there are a number of posts on here about carb syncing.

Don't know what you're starting with. Have you looked at these pinned topics: What jets are you using? Fill out this form... Banshee Digital Toolkit

General rule of thumb: ○ If the air screw is less than 1-turn from Closed, it needs a larger Pilot Jet ○ If the air screw is more than 2.5-turns from Closed, it needs a smaller Pilot Jet Basically if you're at 2.5-turns your maxed on the air adjustment so when you get higher, air density thins, and there's no way you can add air with the screws. You need to adjust your mains for every 1500-2000 ft asl (1 size smaller for every 1500-2000 higher). -► At sea-level I'd give it some 27.5 pilots and adjust the air screws. (You should be between 1 to 2-turns out.) └► You'll also probably have to richen your needles to fix your lean condition with smaller pilots. (3rd-clip position) -►You should be able to compensate for your mains enough by popping your lid @ 2000 ft (air screws may also need to be adjusted). -►Advancing your timing will increase your low-end as well +4 is a good place to start. You're flooding your cylinders whenever you blip the throttle so when you back-off the gas you're having to exhaust raw fuel before the plugs can dry off and fire well.

Cobra makes Universal Sparky Spark Arrestors for Pro Circuit pipes. DR.D makes some USFS approved Spark Arrestor Replacement Screens.

I just explained some of this in another post see if this helps: http://bansheehq.com...dpost&p=1163393