90Bansheedude

cool cool, what are your plans? Basically the 450 quad with the shee motor?

LOL......I think he's serious!

Ive got a trailer that we usually load one in the truck, then 3 more on the trailer, and then the gates go up, and then the 2 trailer gates get locked with padlocks, the tailgate with internal lock, and the trailer gets padlocked to the truck hitch too. The sides of the trailer are about a foot and a half above the deck. They could be taken, but it would be some work, and probably not just 1 or 2 guys either. When Im really paranoid, Ive got one of them heavy cables that I run through them to make it even harder. Now I suppose Ill loose my Truck too! I hate thieves! If I ever catch one in action, either him or I will be hurting really bad! Brian

Yeah, probably couple bucks from your local auto parts store, or heck, walmart probably even has them. You are looking for a valve core remover. If you can use a screwdriver, then you can do this. You might still have trouble getting it all out without dismounting it or atleast breaking the bead, but who knows, maybe you get lucky. Or after you remove the valve core, you could maybe set the tire so the water is all below it, and then take a slim straw or something, and a shop vac and some duck tape to fill the gap and stick the straw down in there to suck out all the water. LOL A regular straw might be too big, maybe a coffee straw, or maybe you can find something. I just thought of this real quick, I figured I would throw it out there. Brian

No Joke! LOL, that is ridiculous! I cant wait till someone calls or emails him with fake BS! LMAO

We fixed a truck that the same exact thing happened, so dont feel bad. Then they brought the same truck back in on a later date, to fix the door, because they somehow caught the four wheeler on the door. (dont ask, I dont know!)

He's definitely a smart one! You can tell by just looking at him! IDIOT!

LOC, you never said how your trip was to little sahara. Did you go or not? Also, did you notice anything funny about the stator and charging system, and 2nd gear on that raptor you traded?

Another bump for you, and I got a question. I know why people go with longer swingarms, but why shorter?

LOL....Yeah, i think ill start with the compression gauge. Oh and by the way, the pilots are already a 30. With the 280s that are in it, i was thinking order 2 each of 300, 320, and 340 to try and get dialed in, then later order an in between if needed.

You may need to check your cable and how it is routed cause it sounds like it is getting pulled on. Maybe loosen it up a tad also at the thumb throttle. If the wires on the top of the carbs, the tors unit and the throttle are all cut or gone, then the Tors is removed. You dont have to get the kit to remove the units from the tops of the carbs, but it is nice cause it cleans it up alot.

Awesome! Great help, mopar. I appreciate it. How can you test the compression ratio? Or is knowing the compression PSI enough? I will set the timing at +4 because of what people are saying on the forum of it being a good safe number.

Thanks, funny thing, i decided to make a post just for this question, cause nobody had responded yet, until you did right when i submitted my post! LOL I can see if I can get some AV gas (not sure on the octane). I will check compression when I get it together. Ill see if anyone else chimes in here or my other post, but I think 320 sounds alot safer then staying with the 280s!! Brian =)

Im ordering some parts, and want to get a few jets also, so I need some quick recommendations. (im sorry, i know everybody must be tired of jetting questions!) What would be a good number to start at when breaking in the new top end? I hate guessing on jetting while breaking in a new top end, for fear of melting my new pistons. What do you guys do for a situation like this? Guess high and then break in awhile and then to plug test? I bought the bike with blown top end (hole in one piston, front edgemelted on the other. It has stock carbs with 280s installed. My Elevation is 1600-1700, bike is Ported, K&N filter, Bills Pipes, Reeds (not sure on brand, but has large bottom reeds with 2 on top of those per side), timing (+4 maybe?, someone said to start at 0, jet, then adjust timing?), compression im not sure about (supposedly a milled head, but i dont know about that until i get my stuff and get it back together), gonna probably run 91 octane if possible, and 32:1 mix and B8ES plugs, also I may run the airbox lid because of riding around water, but the bottom of the 2 tubes in it has been cut out. Temp will be around 85 in Nebraska. What would be a safe starting number! Thanks guys! Brian =) We should start up a thread were everyone posts there mods, elevation and jetting, and sticky it, to help give people something to browse for starting points! I think it would help alot for questions like mine. If it sounds like a good idea, let me know and Ill do it! If you need a picture of the porting, i can get it. It doesn't look too massively hollowed out to me.

Ok, thanks, thats why ive not heard of it before! LOL

What is this about? Any body have a clue? Yah, Ragun, sorry bout that, gotta get used to the new forum.

Wiseco Part#: 513M06475 Product Type: Single Pistons Description: YAM RZ350/BANSHEE PRO-LITE 2549CD Displacement: 355cc Bore - Standard: 64.00mm Bore - Actual: 64.75mm Bore - Oversize: 0.75mm Stroke: 54.00mm Cylinders: 2 Note: Pro-Lite Note: Liquid cooled Installation notes...It doesn't seem to tell me what Im looking for, but it is interesting! Drill 2 holes in my new pistons! Is this true!? Wiseco M series Piston Install Inst.

Thats what I was thinking too, except i had about 4 less y's in my "way to lean" =). What would be a good number to start at when breaking in the new top end? I hate guessing on jetting while breaking in a new top end. What do you guys do for a situation like this? Guess high and then break in awhile and then to plug test? Elevation 1600-1700, Ported, K&N filter, Bills Pipes, timing (+4 maybe?), compression im not sure about (supposedly a milled head, but i dont know about that), gonna probably run 91 octane if possible. Any starter suggestions! Thanks guys!

How much is it, maybe we will go. My buddy was the one who traded you. We met at Advanced Motorsports in Aurora. How was your trip...to Little Sahara, right?

Im over by York, when is the jamboree? You dont have to be members of their club do you? Ive taken my Raptor there a couple weekends ago, and would love to take the banshee im working on there, if i can get er done! Brian PS Did you trade a 02 Raptor for a 01? Banshee that was beefed up, recently?

I may replace the bushing for safeties sake. Im going to compare whats there to a parts breakdown, maybe thats were the piece came from that marked up the clutch basket and case!? ( I cant find anything visibly missing anywhere else anyways) Is there an online service manual anyone knows about? I know there was one for the blaster. (ill have to look and see) I got the flywheel pulled off last night, and the case split, and the tranny looks like its brand new. I was surprised because of the shape of the rest of the bike. Torque specs, yep im familiar with them, but maybe I should buy an inch pounds wrench now, ive borrowed one way to many times!!! LOL

I took them to the machinist, he checked them, and said they looked good and consistent. So, im going to order some pistons, probably the ones in the link below. Ive got my current problem taken care of, but for future reference, when I order a set of pistons... say for example RJATV Ebay Wiseco 64.75 piston set Are the pistons going to be 64.75, or should the bore be 64.75, or what, im kinda confused!? If the bore is supposed to be 64.75, then anything over that is wear, or is it a common practice to give them a little more space for clearance?

all i have is a regular old digital set of calipers Ill see if the machinist is open tomorrow.

Thanks man! Thats some good info. For the kick idler bushing, what do i need to check? That it spins freely (it does) or that it doesn't wobble (it does a little)? The shift shaft seems to move freely, but not have any slop, but the pin that is between the spring that has a locknut on it, is loose enough to turn by hand, its like they bent the lock washer before the nut was locking the pin tight. What do I need to adjust on the shift shaft? (i didn't know there was any adjusting besides moving the shifter) Do you have specs on the side play of the con rods? Thanks again, I really appreciate the help! If you didn't see my other post, I only had to give $260 for the whole ball of wax!! I was happy, even if the motor was total crap! Brian :biggrin: