90Bansheedude

are the bolts majorly worn down? Try to figure out were the slop is coming from. 1. in between arms and bushings 2. in between bushings and inner sleaves 3. In between inner sleeves and bolts 4. in between bolts and frame tabs? and if so, both ends, or just one end, and is the shoulder in the tab hole, or is just the threaded portion in the hole?

Just the normal factory aluminum tube that connects the 2 is what he is referring to. Ive never had any experience with the "boost bottles".

It could be on one side and not the other because the second cylinder has weaker compression, and is not enough to cause detonation. What octane are you using for gas? Too much compression and not enough octane = detonation/combustion/ignition (whatever you want to say) before the spark plug sparks = really bad!

Good, Its always cheap insurance to help keep the carbs clean and junk outta the motor.

probably, thats just what I am used to pinging being, but I work with cars more than quads. TDC is top dead center, like it tries to explode the fuel mixture before the rod goes over center, and is making a hard impact on the piston instead of making it rotate. Advanced timing is great, because it helps ignite the mixture right when it needs to to get max hp, but sometimes if its too advanced then it ignites it too soon. Lets see if anyone else more knowledgeable with 2 strokes chimes in.

pinging that I am familiar with would be from too far advanced timing. It is igniting the mixture before it gets over the hump of TDC.

What are you using for bolts? The factory shoulder bolts? New bolts? Come with the kit?

WD40 im assuming? Thats a new one, but hey if it works, thats all that matters.

In my opinion, an air leak at the top of the carb, or anywhere for that matter could cause a leaner condition than what the bike is jetted for and pulling in air just through the air cleaner, and could cause problems. Really, most people said No it wont?

Could. I would suspect the carb on the gurgling side and probably the pilot jet, as you say it runs fine WO, but not at idle and low speed. But cleaning the whole carb on that side would be good. Then see what happens. You have a filter on the fuel line?

Ive tested other stuff that has been way out of range (non banshee) and it still works. Its probably a good guideline to have something to compare too though. I would say if you aren't having a problem and its not going to create a problem, then dont worry about it. If you are, then you may have found the problem.

Ah, I see. TTT, and good luck with the sale.

Sounds like you got a good start. I would change the oil also. Im assuming you changed out the antifreeze when you did the radiator. Id drain the gas too, and put in fresh. Lube the chain if its still good and a non oring type. Grease anything that already has zerks. (I cant remember if stock balljoints and such have zerks or not) Brian

So idle is the only problem and it was running great when you parked it, even at idle? Maybe something plugged up an idle circuit in the carbs. Were you changing the stuff just because you figured it was time, but it was running fine? Did you wash the shee, or change anything else. Disclaimer: Not an expert, just trying to help.

When you changed the filter and plugs is when the trouble started? If so, are the plugs the right ones? Try putting the old ones back in, and what type of filter did it have, and what type did you put on it?

Im interested to see what all you are doing!

Im guessing thats what you did then? Im glad you got it out!

Very Nice!

You parting out the whole thing, just changing swingarms, or what?

The only thing stupid would be to not ask if you dont know. Ask away, Im sure someone who knows what you need will chime in. Brian =)

LOL, yeah that stuff is tuff! You can get it off by sandblasting, but you gotta have a high pressure tank (not a cheapie siphon feed) and it will take awhile. I am sure there are other ways too, but thats what Ive done in the past. I dont see any problems with painting the shock bodies myself. Just make sure they are really clean, and atleast scuff them up with a scotch brite pad.

Maybe you have a better method then? What steps and products did you use? Did you ever lay it over or fall off and bend over the fender, or are you just talking about flexing from normal riding and the wind? Edit: I should make sure I clarify, that using the methods I described above, and normal automotive type applications, I am definetely not saying not to paint them, (cause I have also) I am just trying to share my experiences and making the possibilities know for those that want to do it. Depending on the quad, I would do it again in the future.

Fixed Pic link

It might just be the fact that its a challenging project thats fun? Ive had my fair share of them.

You must prep properly, or you wont have good adhesion or you will see sandscratches, etc. Full Throttle......The spray adhesive that he is talking about, is not what you are thinking it is. It is not like the spray glue, it is a chemical that helps promote adhesion, and is lots of times called "adhesion promoter" and is generally used in a real thin mist, (like if you sprayed a mist of paint thinner) not like you would to actually glue something. The sealer and clear are totally different. Sealer is the first coat (besides the adhesion promoter) and is like a primer. It is used to "seal" the surface for the paint. The flex agent in the paint is a good idea when painting this kind of stuff, but I will also second the fact that it may crack on full fenders. Its not the fact that they aren't prepped good, its the fact that if they bend farther than the paint can stretch, it will crack. The more build you have from thickness of coats and number of coats, the thicker the coating you have, and the more likely it will be to crack. The flex agent that is used on automotive bumpers and stuff, it prevents cracking under normal usage also, but if you are in a fender bender, and the plastic gets pushed in and moved out of its original shape, the paint will crack, just as it may under a similar circumstance on a quad. Under normal usage and not wrecking, no, you should not have any problems with cracking. If you tip over your quad alot, backwards, forwards, sideways, whatever, your plastics will bend alot, and instead of getting the white stretch marks on the plastic, you will get cracked paint. For a comparison example, I would say whatever you are doing, if it will put white stretch marks in the plastic, then it will probably crack the paint. (not scientifically proven, just my rough example as to what it would take to crack) This is kinda hard to explain, but Ill try. If it is a gradual bend over a larger area, (like grabbing both ends of a car bumper and pulling them in) it spreads the flexing out through the whole area. If for example on 4 wheeler plastics, the center section is pretty rigid, as it is bolted to the quad and resting against the frame, but the fender is loose and hanging out, when you push down on it, the area closest to the frame were it is allowed to bend is usually were the problems lie, as it absorbs the majority of the flexing. Just to clarify, I am not claiming to be a "super paint expert" this info is based off of my experience, others may have different experiences or opinions, all of which may have valid points. Brian =)