90Bansheedude

Page 7 through 9 in this PDF http://bansheequad.chez.com/manuel_yzf350t_chapitre5.pdf OR chapter 5 page 6 (pg177) through chapter 5 page 8 in the full pdf or manual. Yes, that would be great to get a second opinion.

Ok, i just pulled them back off and rechecked the float height. They are both sitting at 21mm which is between their 20-22mm spec, although the left carbs actual fuel level when the bike is running is atleast 2mm lower than the left. This is why i prefer to check the actual fuel level, not just the float height. So Yamahas specs must be off on fuel level (not float height), as with my floats set at recommended setting, the actual fuel level is no were near the 3-4mm above the bowl to carb seam as it suggests. The left carb runs at about 2mm below and the right runs almost dead on the seam. I can cheat the left carb to 20mm float and right to 22mm float so that they will be the same actual fuel level height (which is what really matters), but I would still like to know were it is supposed to be. If for nothing else, peace of mind. So i will continue looking or waiting to see if anyone actually knows this.

sync them by eye first, so the slides open and close at the exact same time, watch when they just barely go past the top of the carb opening on WOT (bike off of course), so they are somewhat close, then clean or rejet or find air leak etc then use the tool when its running good. You can get it running good without the tool.

It is laid out in the manual on how to do this, but how i understand Yamahas measurements (being 3-4mm above the float bowl seem) doesnt seem right, thats why i am asking if anyone else knows anything about this. The carbs overflow nipple also serves the purpose for checking fuel level with the clear tube (as talked about in the manual), you just have to slightly crack the screws on the bottom that would drain the carb bowls down the overflow tube. Now i have cut smaller chunks of tube to slip on there and make easy to read both at the same time as they mention and am not using the bikes 2 into 1 overflow tube. I am fully aware of how to set float height (not checking the actual fuel level) and have cleaned, rebuilt, jetted many different carbs on different applications. Originally i thought the fuel level was too high causing it to go down the overflow, but now i think it is just after it sits awhile, which would mean that my needles are not seating 100%, which will not affect the performance of the quad if it is only a small amount, as it uses more fuel than it would leak past. This is why Yamahas mentioned fuel level seems to high to me, it is much higher than any other one i have done. Most or atleast alot of them are at or below the float bowl seam, not above 3-4mm like it reads in the manual. Does that make sense now what i am asking? I did this on my Raptor 660, and the specs make sense for it. It is actually a better method to fine tune your TRUE fuel level than just setting the float height, as the raptor has some performance gains by fine tuning it with this method. Not trying to raise a stink, just trying to get some clarification.

Yes, thanks, i am aware of that. My needle and seat may be old/worn, but probably only letting a couple drops per minute at the most. I still would like to find out if someone is familiar with testing the fuel level height outside of the carbs with a clear tube.

They are Mikuni. I am pretty sure they are stock carbs without the TORS crap, just screw on lids. The overflowing after sitting is probably just ever so slightly leaking needles. I can readjust the floats, but i did them when i put them together. I always like to verify the actual fuel level to make sure it is running were it is supposed to be.

I appreciate the response, but i already know that and mentioned that i already set the float height to the spec listed in the service manual. I want to verify the fuel level is correct by the clear tube method, but I cant seem to find much searching for it to verify were I think Yamaha wants it to be.

I am pretty sure that if you use an aftermarket DC stator and rectifier you can use the frame for ground, as it would be the same situation as floating the AC ground by removing it from the frame and running a wire that way you can use the frame for DC ground. This is all for the lighting, as the ignition is a separate coil and system. You dont mess with it, just the lighting circuit. If you are running rectifier and DC lights without floating the ground on a stock stator, you have to run ground wires to the lights and make sure the ground does not have continuity to the frame when hooked up to the lights (make sure light case is not connected to -neg wire and frame) If floating the ground or running DC stator, use the frame for -neg for your DC and lights without problems. Just curious, didn't it come with instructions???

Ok, i am familiar with how to set float height and check the fuel level with a clear tube while the quad is running, done it on other quads. I set the float height when putting the shee together, but think 1 or both might be slightly off as i am trying to fine tune my jetting, and it tends to spill a little out of the overflow if it sits awhile, so i am trying to check the fuel level with the clear tube method. Here is a link to a smaller pdf of the carb stuff, the fuel level measurement is on page 9. http://bansheequad.chez.com/manuel_yzf350t_chapitre5.pdf Yamahas nice clear pictures and specs they give dont make sense to me. How i read it is.... the fuel level should be 3-4mm ABOVE the carb bowl to carb seam at the center of the carb, as the say "3-4mm Above the Carburetor Body edge". That seams way too high to me, isn't it? Or what are they considering the Carb Body Edge?? Right now, my left carb is about 2mm below and the right is pretty much on the seam or slightly above. According to how i read the specs, they both need to be raised, but then it will likely spill over even more, unless that is just sticky needle. I think the right side needs to go down, but i dont know. Anyone else messed with this or able to clear it up for me? Brian If you want to see my entire build, see it here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/146660-90-banshee-total-rebuild-project/

Yes I did, I even show it in my build link. I know its a stretch, but maybe a tad rich at about 80f, so that it will never be too lean. Or change that to 70f - 95f Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

One thing i forgot was elevation should be approx 1720 ft

I finally got back to my project a little bit. See it at http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/146660-90-banshee-total-rebuild-project/ It may be only a little bit of progress here and there, but im gonna try to stick with it as life allows. I got it running and am trying to dial in the jetting. To my knowledge the motor mods are... Crank - Possibly, but not for sure Ported Reeds - Believe they are aftermarket Exhaust - Bills Pipes Timing - Believe it is approx 4 deg advance Air - K&N seperate direct mount pods Carbs - stock with 30 pilots and currently 340 mains Plugs - B8ES Stator and Coil - Believe it is stock Location - Nebraska Temp - 80F When i got it, it had a hole burned in one of the pistons and was jetted with 280's. I tried 300's then 320's and finally 340's and was not getting any noticeable bog or performance drop. I do think it is running cooler now, with the 280's it seemed to be hot. The brownish plugs were used but the jets were put in progressively larger until 340's. The plug chop was done with the 340's. It starts very easy and idles wonderfully with the speed screws barely lifting the slides at all. Idle mix screws at 1 1/2 turns out. What do you guys think about the plugs and plug chop? I am kinda thinking i could go richer yet, but at the same time, i think im there and going larger than 340 seems like too much for this setup. i want to make sure it dont burn up another piston but dont want to get it too rich. Looking to jet it decently or slightly rich at this temp so i can ride it at 100F or 60F without messing with jets. It also seems like the plug might be a little hot? Maybe should go with a B9ES or BR9ES (i think next time I order plugs, im going to get resistor plugs. I also need to get some proper plug cap/boots as these have no resistor protection either.

Evidently I cant edit my post to add the link since im on my PC now, so here it is if your interested. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=173835&hl=

or send me a message if you're interested in some as I'm collecting quantities for a run of them Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

I just posted up a thread about the same repair that I made quite awhile back, and looking to make a few more. it's a new thread under the repairs section Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

I like them when they are chopped like that.

Thanks, so now I got the boots covered either in a kit or separately, just need to find those dang caliper bolts! As hard as it is seaming to find some, I may just machine some, if I end up with some spare time before I find some bolts. lol

Boots maybe right, but those are the brake pad pin bolts, I need the actually bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket and allow it to self align to the brake disc.

Is it steering lock you are talking of? Were it kicks past and locks into place down by the spindle arm.

Looking forward to seeing more progress and pictures!

I see the kits you are talking about that have the bolts for the pads, but I have yet to find one with the bolts for the caliper, or the oem partsfinder doesn't show them either. I guess its considered part of the caliper. Anyone have any that aren't worn out that they can spare? Or any other ideas were I can get them?

Sweet, I hadn't checked back in in awhile, and its looking very nice! Im sure you were having a blast trying it out on your test run.

Im rebuilding a banshee, and got the rear caliper polished and put on, but realized that there is way too much slop in the slide pins, and the boot is missing on the larger of the 2. Does anyone know were these can be found? Or does anyone have the boot for the larger, and the pin/bolt for the smaller? Thats what I really need. If I cant find the pin, I can make one (but id rather just find one), but the boot, not so much. Brian =)

What I am hearing, is its not really pivoting if you grab the end of the arm, its more of sliding front to back? Stupid question, but are the bolts tight? or is the bolt shoulder not inside the tab hole completely? If i think Im reading you right, a couple of washers would probably be ok. can you compare the new parts to the old parts, in the length and see if the spacers are shorter?

Thanks Tim! I thought they turned out pretty sweet too!