90Bansheedude

lol, they are pretty crappy, but its should be the same as looking at the bottom of the slides compared to the top of the bores looking down the carbs, shouldn't it? Thats easier anyways cause i can see them both while moving the throttle. After using the vac sync tool though the left side is maybe 1mm lower than the right when Wide open to get even vac on the tool mid throttle.

Well i tried it a couple times after work today and when it was cold, it seemed better, and when i leaned the needle out completely and turned air screws out 3 turns, it seemed better, but not 100% yet. Im going to borrow some 27.5 jets from 99michael probably and try them to see, and i may also try some 320 mains i have just to verify if it is lean or rich. If those dont help, i will go back to 340s and may try drilling out the pilots if i can figure out approx how large they need to be comparing the 25s, 27.5s and 30s that i have available as a test. If i need larger pilots instead, i probably wont get them by the weekend, but its not a deal breaker, just would have been nice. I called all of my local sources today, and no luck with any jets or getting them from them soon enough. I also have some T5 pipes that i can try from 99michael if i want to. The one local parts guy said if its ported massively and modded greatly i may be out of luck, but im not taking that as an answer. Will keep you posted.

It has new plug boots on it already also. @ Camp, so you ended up with 350s and 32.5s to richen the pilot and then leaned out the needle 2 grooves? Was that the final fix or did you do the pickup gap at the same time? I think i would have checked the pickup gap when i put it together, but it was awhile ago and i cant remember. Its scary to think that the guy before was only running 280 mains!! No wonder he melted a piston. I will see if i can find some 32.5 pilots that can get shipped to me before the weekend and try those.

currently 1.5 out, but tried from 1 to 2

Ive got stock carbs and an off idle bog, stutter, stumble, whatever you want to call it. It starts easy, idles well and runs strong, except for the off idle bog which is interfering with my low speed vertical wheelies that i like to do, especially having a +6 swingarm on with the low speed off idle bog makes it very difficult. I have tried double checking float and fuel level height, changed the needle clip many different times, synced the carbs with the tool, tried running with choke half on, no matter what, i cannot get rid of it. What do you guys think, I was thinking it seemed like a rich bog, but doing some more reading, maybe its lean?? although the choke isn't helping. Do you think i should go to 32.5 pilots or what? Needle - has 6 clip slots, tried all but the top and bottom ones with not much difference Ported (but not sure who or for what) Reeds - Believe they are aftermarket but they came with it Exhaust - Bills Pipes Timing - Believe it is approx 4 deg advance Air - K&N seperate direct mount pods Carbs - stock with 30 pilots and currently 340 mains Plugs - B8ES Stator and Coil - Believe it is stock Location - Nebraska Temp - 80F approx Elevation 1700 Engine was leak tested when i put it together, and passed wonderfully Plug Chop Post Link http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/182681-340-jets-plug-chop-and-plug-read-opinion/ I am trying to get it all done and tuned perfect for a possible trip this weekend, but if i need different pilots i will have to see how fast someone can get me some. Brian

Is there fishing in that pond or smaller bobber style fish like bluegill or kid pole sized fish for my boy (5yrs) to fish? I dont know if him or his pole would like the large channel cats, but i would. LOL

All you need to know is it is Dupont DIC Flat Black. This is not a normal mixed color, it is kind of in their industrial line and is super tough and does not require a clear coat. I thought it would be good for this application so im giving it a shot. The tech manual does not give specs for the amount of flex additive to add, but we talked to one of our reps and he said we should be good to add the same amount that would normally be added. I forget what it was now, i dont use flex that often, but if you mix other stuff, you will know when you have your tech sheets in front of you. I used the Plas-Stic 2310s cleaning paste washing and cleaning multiple times per tech page, then I think it was 2330s Adhesion promoter and then sealed with Chroma Premier #???? sealer, then the flexed DIC Flat Black after that. I had to sand the sealer after 45mins or so with 800 grit quit abit before shooting the paint as it was a little fuzzy or something, probably from the plastic and static electricity, even though i tacked it off with a tack rag. See the far left column option A http://www.axaltacs.com/content/dam/NA/HQ/Public/Cromax/Documents/TDS/CX-TDS-Plastic-Preparation-Eng.pdf This isn't the exact guide we have at the shop, we have an older Dupont one, but i think all the info is the same.

It is painted with Dupont automotive paint with a flex additive as well as the adhesion promoter and Dupont sealer with flex in it as well. I work at a paint shop also.

thanks! I like it too!

I would only need enough room for for a pickup and a 6 1/2' x 12 1/2' trailer. Dont own a camper, but i do have a tent! I could get there Friday if needed. That does look like alot of people almost too many! My boy has been wanting to go fishing, is fishing allowed in that pond you speak of? Would they not even allow my little slow golf cart on the road?

Were abouts are you located?

Is there usually plenty of room to camp or is it majorly crowded? Ive never been to the Jamboree before.

I would like to if it works out.

Figured it would be nice to see who all in Nebraska rides and were. Genoa is closed currently and is probably one of the better places close to me. Harlan has some nice trails, but not alot of wide open area if you want to drag. Im about 10 minutes from York, Nebraska. Brian

sumbitch.....that sucks

I think black would have looked awesome, but i might be biased. LOL It gives it some good contrast.

I had high temp powder flat black done on mine. I dont have alot of time on it yet, but i have gone on several rides and they still look good. You can see them in my sig, or click the link for my build and go to the last page or so to see bigger pics.

Look at pictures of one you like and then tape them off with masking tape like mentioned. I actually used a jigsaw with a good sharp fine blade on it and a belt sander and a sanding block to make sure they were straight, but i was painting mine. I have actually seen and would like to try sometime a cutting attachment for my soldering iron (the trigger style with 2 ends coming from the tip) as i think it would be like cutting butter with a hot knife.

Sparkle New Red frame and Flat Black! Oh wait, dont do that, i want mine to be different too!

The windows on mine are so old and clouded over i cant see anything in them, so i have to look down the bore of the carb itself after taking the air filters off. If you had an airbox on, that might be kind of hard though.

I had a clicker style foot lbs torque wrench awhile back and was converting in/lbs to ft/lbs when working on my 92 Yamaha Seca 2 bike, and the torque wrench was horribly inaccurate at those low torques, which caused some stripping on a few bolts, but fortunately they were not super important bolts. Now i have an in/lbs torque wrench, the style with the arm on it that allow the bend of the torque wrench to move the needle. Some people think its an old style tool, but that way i can see it moving and in case the clicker doesn't click your not screwed. It wasn't even that expensive, it is craftsman and i think i found it online around $30 give or take about 10 years ago. Probably a little more now of course.

I dont know about those and snow, but on sand paddles are nice, and otherwise, i like my Kenda Klaws.

Very Colorful That sucks with the tickets. How did you give you 2?

Nice catch, that seems closer to what i am getting and more realistic. If it is not running, you may have needle seepage if they aren't sealing 100%, and if it is running any vibration or fuel suction that is happening will be the same as when you are riding it. Maybe not necessary, but it gives the absolute closest reading possible. I feel confident going with the .5-1.5mm reading. Mine will likely be closer to .5 not 1.5 though. Thanks for finding that, i overlooked that. I do like it also, as you can verify the level to be correct. Setting your floats is kinda of like telling your boy to go to bed. Unless you double check it with the clear tube method, it/he might not be were it/he is supposed to be. LOL Brian

Also, if some of you that are pretty sure your float height is correct want to check your fuel level via the clear tube method, i would be curious is to if any of yours meets yamahas 3-4mm above the seam spec. All you have to do is take your drain/overflow tube from the carb bowl and stick it up along the side of the carb in the center while it is running and loosen the drain screw just enough to get the fuel coming into the tube. Then make sure you dont have any air bubbles in it to mess with your reading.