90Bansheedude

Is this clear as mud yet? For a really good DC conversion without floating the ground by the trail Tech rectifier regulator for 60 bucks and a 2000 or more milliamp battery like the Tenergy one on ebay for $20 and hook it up as described. :-) Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

Yes except the wire that is shown grounded from the stator and on 1 side of the rectifier is a wire coming out of the stator wiring loom and running to the rectifier. This is becoming way more complicated than it has to be. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

Is that for Trail Tech or a different one? Im not familiar with bajadesigns. Here is the TT pdf. http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-116.pdf I talked to one of their tech guys about it and they confirmed that it was ok. The banshee stator has 2 wires coming from the stator and one going to ground, so it would have 3 total including the one going to ground that sometimes gets floated. Just an FYI.

Also you do want the rectifier regulator bolted to the chassis so that it can bleed off any excess voltage when it is regulating it. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

If you do not float the ground on the stator you will have two wires coming out of the stator hook up both of those to the regulator. if you floated the ground on the stator you would have a third wire, that is the wire that we are ignoring. Yes you do need to have a ground hook from your lights to the trail Tech regulator or battery just follow their wiring diagram. Is that clear or do you need any more clarification? Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

You just need to make sure that the lights you hook up the case is not connected to ground. mine were not some of them may be so verify that or make some type of insulator. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

Correct, just don't worry about the wire connected to frame ground and hook up the two that are accessible. And no I am not using the stock ac regulator, I think they want you to use a battery, atleast a small one. I think I posted a link earlier to the one I used. I am very happy with this setup. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

With the trail Tech rectifier/regulator you do NOT need to float the ground nor did I. You just have to make sure all your negatives for your lights and such are ran with wires and not touching the frame. I repeat you do NOT need to float the ground if you do not want to. I thought i already made that clear. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

By the way thought I'd say I'm not associated with trail Tech by any means whatsoever Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

I tried to get off cheap also and all it did was end up costing me a little bit of money and time as well then when I actually bought the trail Tech unit I have a wonderful set up that works perfect. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

Read my last post.... if you are regulating the AC to 12 volt before you change it to DC it will not be the voltage you expect. You need to rectify it to DC and then regulate it to 12 volt DC after it is rectified to DC. This is why I recommend the trail Tech rectifier regulator set up for 60 bucks. I have a simple 2000 milliamp rechargeable 12 volt battery pack that was like 20 bucks hooked up as well then I can have light for quite a while without it running if I need to fix something or somebody wrecks and we need some light. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

If it follows standard rules and the aftermarket box does not have a regulator in it and relying on the stock ac regulator, I would think at 12v ac you would end up with 7.6 volts dc and if at 14.5 ac then you would end up with 9.2 volts dc. But real life application may prove otherwise. Or...... that's the liquor talking.... lol Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

Once you get it hooked up while using the factory ac regulator post up what you're dc voltage is at idle and at some higher rpms. I kind of doubt it will be correct, because there is a multiplication factor when changing to DC, and since you are regulating it before you are rectifying it, I would be curious as to what volts it is putting out. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

The capacitor that's in that box takes the place of a battery to eliminate flicker if it is large enough for the application. But I'm still curious as to if its just using a standard $5 bridge rectifier to convert to DC in there or something else and what he's using to regulate it. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

Sorry been busy but you can't really see much there's a capacitor I'm assuming there's a bridge rectifier in there but all I can see is the capacitor and some foam stuff Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

I'm still curious on what exactly it has inside of it if he gets to take it apart to find out and maybe it'll have some specs on the parts inside or we can look them up from part numbers or stress test it adding wattage until it blows if someone wants to find out for everybody else. Or did anybody actually asked the seller to see if he knows how many watts Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

Probably depends on how hot it gets because inside the plastic box it can't really dissipate heat much. All you can do is try it and see and if it doesn't work go to the trail Tech one you can choose to float the ground or not either way Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

No problem do it how you like. Would anyone be game to peak inside that box and see what's inside? Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

You don't have to float the ground on the trail Tech one either. I talked to the tech guy just to make sure and did not float it on mine and it works wonderful actually. I would actually be very curious what he actually has inside of that box if it's just a standard $5 bridge rectifier or if there's a lot more. Does it come apart easy to take a peak? Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trail-Tech-Full-Wave-DC-Switching-Regulator-Rectifier-w-Auto-Shut-Off-7004-RR150-/171840281574?hash=item28027a9be6&vxp=mtr Trail tech one is only $54, not much more and can handle 150 watts. I would recommend it.

Some rectifier regulators or bridge rectifiers need a battery to work right. I tried a simple bridge rectifier without and burned up a set of lights. Trail techs also says must have one. I used a Tenergy 2000mah battery http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenergy-12V-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Pack-w-Bare-Leads-/390335352447?hash=item5ae1ccce7f It fits in the tool tray very well. I bought 2 but they only shipped one at first, and the one was sufficient, but planned on fitting the 2 in together in parallel for more capacity (4000mah) You can fit 2 of those in the tool tray and with a small piece of velcro, foam and a zip tie, its not going nowhere. I will be getting my shee out possibly this weekend to get it ready for a ride next weekend and if i do and remember, i can take a picture if desired. I like the battery, because then if the quad dies, you still can have the lights for awhile to either see whats going on, or signal for help. Or if you need it to see to fix something on a buddies quad or for loading, etc, you dont have to let it sit there idling. I would highly recommend going for the $60 Trail Tech one, it works great, is adjustable and has a time delay off feature that is just, well, kinda cool.

Curious if anyone is going to the NOHVA 2015 Fall Jamboree in Genoa Nebraska in just over a week, October 9, 10 and 11th. Im pretty sure i am going with the Shee and some others and probably camping, although i may have to leave for abit on the 10th if i cant get out of a prior commitment. They have Drags, Banshee Drags, Timed Trail ride, Barrel races and more, as well as open riding. Link to the Jamboree info http://www.nohva.com/jamboree.htm

That would be 5 Kg/H not Cfm, sorry.

I dont have the stock needles, only whats in it. If i need other needles, pilots or reeds, i will have to order them. Yes, i have the sync tool and it reads about 5 at idle and i was setting part throttle at about 13. Maybe im not going about diagnosing the problem right. I do know that with the 340s in, and the needle close to the middle riding trails it was getting loaded up, so If i have the 340s in i should lean the needle. I think with the 320s in and needle close to middle that problem is gone, although im not riding trails, but on the road and in my yard (3 town lots) which is a little different. The gurgle i was trying to get rid of is when rolling really slow in first and punching it WOT it gurggles and then takes off, but past the point of bringing up low speed wheelies. But after watching abunch of other banshees, i notice almost everyone clutches to wheelie, with the Blaster i used to have with a +4 swingarm and the Raptor 660 stock swingarm, i never had to clutch, just roll slow and punch the throttle while pulling back and it was up. But thats probably because of the large pistons and low speed torque, and the Banshee has a +6 currently. I think i am going to drop to a +2 and see how i like it. How would YOU go about finding the right needle position, ride abunch of 1/4-1/2 throttle (although 1/2 ends up being pretty fast) and adjust it just until loading up is gone? How about the pilots, put in as large as possible and richen the air screws until it wont idle good anymore and then lean/open the air screws a little or go done a jet? Is it hard to tell if its the needle or pilot on the part throttle just off idle? It seems like it may be to me, unless i need my pilot alot richer and my needle leaned out all the way. Now if i am punching it full throttle from barely rolling, would a rich gurggle be from the full throttle main, or the pilot? If the throttle is pinned while gurggling it wouldn't be the pilot anymore would it? Unless its not wound enough to pull the fuel from the main yet, or has a tiny amount of already pilot metered fuel it has to burn....???? My jetting knowledge is enough to get them running decent, but the fine tuning I haven't done enough of to have it nailed down yet.

I think the 27.5s were too small, seemed to heat up fairly fast at idle and still didn't fix what i was trying to fix so i put the 30s back in. I did put the 320s in and it might be slightly better, still doesn't run hot, likes to stay around 180ish give or take, but maybe im just expecting too much stabbing the throttle at too low of rpms. Im getting tired of messing with it. If i feel like it tomorrow, i might try swapping the pipes and see what that does. For now, i will work on wiring up my Trail Tech Rec/Reg for the lights.