BANSH-alena-jol-EE

im doing a complete rebuild, so ill be going slow and steady while im breaking her in, but once shes broke in ill be racing her often...so id like to get it correct....some other factors i have is that i put molybdendum oil soultion on the cam faces, so there is a film of oil on the surfaces when im checking the clearance....but ive slide the feeler gauge in so often now that i think most of it has worn away.....all of my valves are in spec but 3....or so i think.....i have 2 intake valves that the 0.20mm feeler (upper tolerance range, maximum loose) slides in with id say a medium resistance....and i have 1 exhaust valve that takes the 0.30mm (upper loose tolerance maximum) and it is much tighter a fit....i think im happy with this exhaust valve clearance because its such a tight fit....but id like the 2 intakes to be slightly tighter, they have a 154 shim a 156, this is the exact measurement of them, i used a mic...so i got a 158 and a 159 that im thinking about switching places with, this should tighten them up a bit.....the clearance on the valves that have the 158 and 159 were right in the mid range of the clearance range, at 0.15, so i think this would be ok? i guess what im worried about is the 2 intake valves perhaps having a clearance of say 0.21 or 0.22, maybe 0.23, the next size feeler i have is 0.24 and this one will not fit in....

thanks for advice

hey, i was wondering about feeler gauges, this isnt banshee related, i appoligize, but i cant get a sensible answer from other forums...checking valve clearances on my gsxr 750, the service limit of the intake valves is 0.10 - 0.20 mm or 0.004 - 0.008inch and the service limit for the exhaust is 0.20 0.30mm or 0.008 - 0.0012inch........so i guess heres my delema, i dont have and expremely precise feeler gauge set. mine jumps from 0.008inch to 0.0010inch to 0.0012inch....0.0014inch so on for the exhaust there is a few valves that i can stick the 0.0012inch in, although quite snug..and the 0.0014inch will not go in...i haev a similar problem with my intake valves...so what im wondering is is this a correct reading? also i heard that the valve clearances tighten up rather than loosen up, so should i adjust the shims or just leave it? thanks, im not sure how much sense this all makes but i sppreciate any input

hello, my friend just got a new clutch lever put on his bike and carburators cleaned....the banshee runs when in neutral, revs fine, but when clutch is pulled she wont run, she is sputtery and shuts off, even when in neutral....any ideas? thanks

yah she is already bored 20 over with weiscos...i should have gotten her ported at last rebuild...i wonder if its still worth to port not that ill have to bore her again...and the cylinders will b through half its bore life ahha...?

ok so i compression tested her, but engine was cold...but i dont think it matters cause it was 30 psi on the left and 85 on right...so i guess i sucked dirt in....whats the chances that she may just need new rings? or think have to bore her and new top end?

it is getting colder, but she doesnt feel like shes running lean...however ill play around a lil bit with it...gonna clean air filter maybe there clogged, i highly doubt it though....could dirt be clogging in the gas tank somewhere, in the fuel valve or something? although i cant c how any dirt could have gotten inthere... i will comp test her but i may b hard to get her warmed up to temp...i dont wanna have to bar her to warm her up ahhahha

ok so far the carbs have been cleaned and no clogging of pilot jets...looked in at the reeds with a flash light and all of them seem to be fine none missing no obvious signs of damage...didnt want to unbolt the manifolds cause i think some of the bolts are rounded and im worried about re-sealing....so what else havent comp tested her yet...havent looked at plugs either...

thanks bro

hello, took her out yesterday and she ran fine for 30 min, then she started to bogg at low rpms... she would run if full throttle....not a chance of her idleing...wondering what this could be...

ive used the stage 3 amr rev box for almost 2 years now, havent had a problem once...not sure if its worth the money over a stock cdi, but it certainly didnt feel any worse, bike hauls ass, i have full fmf, sst headers and powercore 2..also vf3 reeds and k and n pods...

ive been riding mine now for a year with pods, through winter, rain...no problems just cant go fast through water...you have to clean your outwearers much more frequently...looks way better too ahha

splended ahhaha, i took off the chain rollers, have been riding like this a long time now, very aggressive riding ahhah i may have been over tightening chain, so i guess this is a problem that should be fixed sooner than later ahhaha

hello, got some play in front sprocket...its all torqued up and punched, so not play due to that issue...i guess theres a bearing in there somewhere gone/going, or whats the deal-e-o also i have issues containing my self from not wheeling the bike all the time ahhah

hello, im obsessed with getting anything off the sheeban that doesnt need to be there, basically all thats left is the bunch of electrically taped wires that look so ugly running from front to back, can ne of these be cut out? tors removed, rear brake light removed, front brake light indicator wire unplugged, i have the headlights removed but ill leave that wire on...thanks