Justintoxicated

since your not runnig sand tires int he dunes I would stick with the 14, you would probably get alot of wheel spin, although after your going the 13 would be nice for the hills. Since they are not too hard to change you could get one and play around with it, especialy if you planning on getting sand tires soon.

I left my tors in tackt. SDD put a new clutch lever on my shee which removed the parking break lever, cable and the parking beak near the brake disc was replaced with a parking break block off (nice shiny billet one) Total cost was about $50...I still have my TORS in tact untill I change carbs, I have never had a problem with it OTHER than with the parking brake part of it.

I just dropped 20's in my shee, butim planing on mixing 1/2 VP 110 1/2 pump (91)....

I got the new needles installed, But I need to re-sync my slides...About how raised should they be in the idle position I can't rememebr but I think it was like 1/2 centemeter?

I don't like them, where are the grease zergs? I hear ricky stator makes pretty damn good arms for a good price, the LSR ones look very nice too. Not sure about the others as I havent sceen them. I hear alba has a special running tripple weight shocks + a-arms for $1000. I hear teh alba arms are also nice. Ricky has great customer service too, I haven't heard anything bad about him expect from other sellers. And he has always been able to help me out when need be. He even pulled off my flywheel and installed my stator for free after I removed the rest of the parts

as far as porting I feel the Fattys work much better than toomy T-5's or even SST's at least thats what the dyno charts showed me at SamCo last time I checked. And not all porting is the same. Fattys were designed for the Banshee too and so were SST's Im of course Biased cause I have FMF pipes, but I like the toomys too especialy the finish they put on them, I just think your paying more for the name than when you buy FMF's. The FMF's are typicaly much cheaper here by about 100 or so but they are very good pipes. Honestly it depends where you want the power. Or if your picky about sound, I also like the way the toomys sound better (T-5's) Of course CPI's are better than both with porting but worse than either pipe before porting from what I hear. Also im not sure if they make a hush kit or silencers for the CPIs? feel free to argue this is jsut what I have sceen.

I just picked up some engine ice coolant, Damn shit was expensive! $18 after tax for 1/2 gallon...I was just going to use water wetter and coolanol but they didn't have any. So My choise was this or 2 small bottles of honda coolantfor $9. I already have water wetter and the guy at the counter told me this stuff already has water wetter in it. But when I got home I noticed it says it is non toxic and water wetter is HIGHLY toxic and causes cancer. So Would it be a good idea to add water wetter to this stuff to further enhance performance? and make it nice and toxic too? lol

I agree but the closest place to go testing is about a 2 hour drive away so i wanted to make sure its fairly accurate before I go out. I don't think the cops would like it if I was pinning 6th down my 25MPH street. Heh, thanks again.

I havent sceen the specs on the T6's but if they are like the T5's they are mostly a top end pipe, the FMF's lose a little on top end but have more power throughout than th T5's...I havent sceen any dynos with the T6's though. Cool thing about the toomys is the hush kit is available and may or may not become a necessity at glamis soon. However you can mod a the hush kit to fit the FMF's or so I hear.

I stopped by SamCo and I got 2 free toomy needels (i didn't want to buy the kit because im changing carbs soon), He told me with porting the stock needels really are not very good. SamCo seemed to think 320 would run rich in combination with the toomy needels and he told me the piolts are fine unless I have to adjust the screw for more than 3 turns out. He suggested I jsut use the 320's and if they are too rich I could go down to 310's or 300's but he thinks it might be perfectly fine with the 320's Does this sound right? He told me to install the needles on the 4th position from the top. Also one of the needels has a point on the end and the other is rounded, they are also a slightly different color. Taper length and clip spacing is all exactly the same. They were jsut spares he had laying around I guess.

PassionRE told me to start with 35's and work my way down and also to change the pilot jet one size up from stock... But thats $50 worth of jets I could have it dyno tuned for like $125... I read that whole article, and acording to it my banshee should be lean but instead it runs very rich...It was rich before...I dunno what to do and I don't want to spend a boatload of money on little itty bitty jets

when I added a K&N, removed my lid compleatly, and FMF pipes, I went up to 320 mains and left the pilot stock... Runs just a tad rich in the day (Desert) then runs possibly a tad lean at night (Desert) The temp drop at glamis is huge from day to night. I don't see anyone re-jetting to go on night rides?

Well I want to get my banshee re-jetted. Before I was running 320's with K&N filter and FMF pipes no air lid Now I have advanced my timing 4 degrees, Recieved some nice porting (REALLY opened it up and added some extra ports) and changed the head to 20CC domes from the stock head... Jets are $5 each around hee and they won't let me return the unused ones. I was planning on just bying a bunch and and trying them out but for that price, its almsot cheaer to have someone dyno tune my banshee. The local shop says not to change the stock pilot jet still, and that my jets will be no larger than 330's even after those mods....

I dunno but they BEG MOTHERS.

Jim really opened my cyinders up - 12-port . I just got it back together compleatly minus carbs and jetting, Ill let you guys know how it rips when I go out thanksgiving. Can't wait to ditch these stock carbs, Just having to deal with jetting again with that damn tors on the top, it's really annoying.

I ment for each kit, they are threaded correctly. I jsut installe dthem yesterday they look much better than stock and use hexes that are the same size as the ones that come stock on the reed cages.

Well I have other feelings about the 13 tooth sprocket. After adding pipes I lowered the front a tooth to a 13 for glamis, I like it much better than the stock 14 tooth for hill shooting up the steeper hills. Like the steeper part of olds, the 13 tooth allowed me into 4th gear while with the 14 tooth I just couldent quite hit fourth because it would lose too much power....

I got both kits (stator side and clutch cover side) from alba last night, they have hexes so stripping should not be a problem anymore. I think they were like 7 or 8 $ each.

I'd like to have one of each, a 450 yammy and my banshee But I think the 2-strokes are definately much cooler, and simpler, also I believe they are easier to mod for HP. But I could be wrong.

Im not sure but a voltage rectifier would fix the problem and they are not very expensive either. Thats how im going to run my 350ma 1 watt LED's for my tail lights when i get my shee back together. It only cost $1

ahh I had to remove the clutch basket again and it poped right off, I never done this before so well Then my roomate tripped the circuit breaker with his hair dryer and my computer needed to have the bios reset before it would come back on! WTF... So I couldnet tell ya I figured it out. oh well thanks for the replies though

Hey anyone have any ideas why I cant get my case apart? We already pulled teh top of it off before, then we put it back on so I could clean it later. Now I can't get it back apart. The case seperates for about an inch then it gets hung up only I can't determin what is hanging it up! THis is really agrivating as I need to have it clean by saterday!

Justintoxicated!.....decided to drop your load huh?...go with the 33's on your port job...but honestly, get those v-force reeds first ,and if you can only get one of them now,...go for the reeds...your cylinders should be there in a couple of days, and after you get them, keep your hands where we can see them...Jim thx ill see if I can convince them to pickup a set of 33's just for me, then maybe I could still get the free dyno tune . I have plans to get the bottem end back together this weekend, SDD from the forum is coming by to help me out. So reeds are more important than carbs? I was thinking about just having my stock reed cages ported for whatever kind of reeds I want, as was the offer. Not sure how much difference there would be between ported cages and new ones though.

I havent had any trouble with my ricky stator illuminator lights, the one piece design helps keep them sealed up. I love the handle bar mounted lights as they allow my to see where im turning before I turn. They repalce the stock handlebar mount and require key-relocation but they were NOTICIBLY brighter than my stock lights even at the same watts with the same stator. They were also more clear and white of a light. Great for the dunes at glamis as you can adjust them side to side, I have mine centered in front of me and it gives off a huge circle of light. Thought I already posted this but I guess it got erased?

anoher vote for the ricky stator illuminators, even at stock wattage they are brighter and more clear than the stock lights. My friend likes mine more than his PIAA lights even with his stator rewound. Of course since then I have replaced my stator for even brighter lights cause you can never have too much light at night illuminators vs lazerstars -illuminators use interlocking ring system (have never had a problem breaking bulbs like I hear some people have with the lazer starts. It also keeps them sealed up pretty well since they use a 1 piece design unlike the lazerstars. Ricky stator can give you detailed instructions on how to install your new lights using the existing wiring setup. Just ask him. -lazerstarts include a place to mount your key with handlebar version, where as the ricky stator handlebar version requires you to relocate your key. I purchased a pollished billet key relocator and re-located it under the seat. I think its kinda cool and makes the banshee unique but it is another $20 for the billet relocator for under the seat.