Justintoxicated

im the opposite I never use the front brake because its harder to pull when you need to stop fast. I don't have to feel the rear brake lever to know its there soon as I move my boot I can feel it stopping. Im with your friends keep the rear brake, maybe jsut adjsut its position so its easier to use?. You never know when you might need to stop fast.

I started it up and there was not much smoke coming out the pipes at idle. I have just repacked the silencers and this is my first time running 110/ mixed... How do I know when i need to change the pilot jets?

I never really had to change my plugs but Id replace tehma every now and then because they looked like shit. Usualy I jsut buy some when Im tryign to figure out the jetting. Takes aclean set to change the jetting. 4 years is a LONG time to go without any Mods that requrie a jetting change. Here they are about $10 for 2 plugs some places want more some less (but not much) I have gone through maybe 10 plugs over the 4 years plug chops etc... When I started to fowl them (last trips out) I rebuilt the top end

Have you ever tried the amsoil or Do I really need castor now? I mean how agressive is this porting? heh

the V-shaped helps you to slide around easier, i would recomend them for duning and the straight ones for strictly drag. Both will work for both instances it just depends where you want the emphesis. I love my V-paddle Skate II's and I could not imagine switching to straight paddles unless I only wanted to drag race. I just ride teh imperial sand dunes though so its probably a little different there.

I just installed a new DID X-ring chain, but havent run it yet...Looks great sitting on there after I ditched teh stock chain. Seemed to me the O-rigns were shaped a little different too, they had like a flat side and a bevel.

Did you add the parking break block off near the brake disk? If not thats probably your problem. Also if you look next to the fuel tank on the left side, there is a little black box, you may want to disconnect that also, but you need the block off and then I don't think that plug will matter.

go to where?

Problem is its close to $800 a year for insurance if your under 23 like me...If I would have bought insurance I could have purchased a new quad already, Its nearly as expensive as making payments on a new one Sorry to hear you things were stolen. More often than not people you know are the ones that break into your home. My friends brother stole an assload of stuff just from my room back in HS, Just compleatly busted out a window to get in...Stole my Sterio system (yamaha and old school pioneer) Boom Box and at the time N64 and all the games, money. Things like 30 CD's that were missing were not covered by in Insurance. Iand this is before CD burners were even out. Disk-man and lots of other things too...All I got back was my N64 and some tweakers had stripped the connectors to hot wire it to a TV that didn't have the right plug and deleated my saved games too!....that was when N64 was new though heh. I hate theives! most of my stuff was probably pawned off for drug money.

was it mixed with oil? I hear oil deteriorates the octaine if not used within 2-3 weeks

I sat on the yfz 450 and its not really much bigger than a warrior

# Your products will arrive at their destination within 3-5 working days all the way from germany eh? lol only 2500 for the craptor! THis has to be illegal or something. someone contact the FBI or something.

if you have a solder gun slder that shit so it won't be a problem again. Soldering wires is easy as pie. Jsut make sure you heat up the wires and touch the solder to the wires not the other way around. Heatshrink over it will make it look nice and keep it protected.

I thought Vitos were forged, arent they made by weisco? I thought weisco only made forged pistons? Interesting though, But I thoguht warming the shee up was not as important (or dyer rather) with cast pistons? Is that perhaps why they make them thicker than weiscos? Because they are cast?

I just got the NOSS head, seemed to get installed pretty easily. Race gas will be dependent on your dome sizes, you jsut need to find a store to pick the stuff up. Many of my local shops sell it like Motoworld, Veys, Duncan Racing, etc. There are many different grades and octains which are dependent on how much you want to raise your compression. I would imagine getting your crank welded would be a good diea too but im not sure how necessary it is for Just an aftermarket head. The wicked head looks bad ass but I can't wait to try the noss head out

I havent tested mine yet, but replacing the stock lever with the yamaha factory one + 3 REALLY HD springs for the clutch seems to help the gears engauge smoother but I don't have any real testing on it yet...Im also unsure abotu the shift star mod, I know it helps you to find neutral easier but I think with a good lever and springs the rest isn't needed as bad.

purple ice is about the same as water wetter, but this engine ice is non toxic and clams to reduce temps more than water wetter (claims up to a 50F drop from normal mixed coolant and water) added to straight water (which is 20F drop with water wetter). Maybe I should get a thermomiter. I have an Infared thermomiter that reads surface temperatures, will that work?

nope I have never been there and I had a broken shoulder from a minor crash at ocatillo all summer. Sorry to disapoint

ill find out soon enough I think 20cc will be fine for now but I can always replace them should I want to run straight 128 octain or something. My wallet will be much easier to lug around then too, and less weight means more acceleration..

damn I had that problem also but it turned out it was bad gas. Did you clean out your carbs?

anyone mixed these before? I don't want to blow myself up or anything

I saw some VP stuff like ultra 4 or something like that yesterday, they told me it was highly oxygenated for 4 strokes to improve horsepower but was only 93 octain. Is this the stuff your talking about?

that would be sweet but I need to get it done by this weekend im not sure they would ship ontime? I put in the new needles and I have a feeling they will be just about right (might need a new pilot jet) I do still have the TORS and don't plan on ditching it untill I buy new carbs this summer. How far open aprox should the slides be in the idle position? or should they be compleatly closed? I can sync them after that np. I got teh carbs back on with the new needles that make it run richer, and I was already rich before im hoping it is close to about right. I have to wait till I get home this afternoon to fire it up for the first time because it was 12:00 by the time i was finished last night. The TORS and carb boots are fucking annoying as hell! Luckily I should not have to compleatly remove the carb to jet it here on out. 370's are HUGE! SamCo said the most they normaly use is a 300-310 from the results of their dynos on a ported bike, Alba and motoworld told me the same thing. But all 3 of these places use aftermarket needles I beleive (not positive about motoworld) I think ill throw my near new plugs in for break in then ill toss new ones in and take the readings. After I drive it a little I think ill have a feel for needing o go up or down and ill buy a couple sizes in either direction. but I may need to change the pilots first anyways... Man this is a pain inthe ass

hey people, My banshee is all back together now...Im ready to start break in. I have 2 bottles of yamalube 2R (the big bottles 32 oz) I figured I would use them up first. Bad idea? The bike now has porting and cooing head with 20cc domes. I was thinking about switching to Amsoil or MC1 after that. Usualy I get my oil from rocky mountain but they do not sell amsoil. I also hear Bell Ray MC1 is pretty good stuff for a ported bike (Synthetic also) and they do sell it at www.rockymountainatv.com. Im not sure where to buy the amsoil from. Which oil will be better for a heavily ported engine? I have also been told castor works great but I hear other issues of it gumming up peoples cylinders. I ride mostly dry desert dunes like glamis. Thanks,

It seems the T6's are the toomey versino of SST's both perform better on stock engines than their counterparts the T5 and Fattys, but the T5's and fattys perform better on ported engines then. I hear the FMF's are better than T5's with most porting but that may jsut be speculation. Fatty's = more low and mid to top, T5's equal less low and mid and more top. They both haul ass and are a huge improvement over stock. Im not dissing CPI's How could I? I want a set myself! I just heard they were not as good as T5's or Fattys on a stock engine, that woudl not mean they are not good, jsut that you would see mroe benefits of using Fatty's SST's T5's or T6's on compleatly stock engine. But I don't have a pair to test for myself.