Justintoxicated

I thought 32 to 1 was thick for amsoil? 260 sounds lean, I would imagine you should be around 310 min at that altitude.WHen I had that setup I also moved the clip on the needle down one position from the top...

I just wanted and initial reading after rebuild, + im trying to get it dialed in. It looks like I can get some smaller domes since im mixing 1/2 110 1/2 91 Ill check it with another tester when I get out there on T-day

damn, motoworld wants $400 for carbs, they said they will pre-jet them for my application, Like I would trust those guys to pre-jet anything after they told me 320's were to rich and to go down to 300's after porting and timing advance instead of going up lol. Oh well At least I have time to look around

new thought: How were the tests constructed? In the test was it pure distilled water + water wetter? Vs Pure distilled water + Engnie Ice? Water Wetter and pure distilled with no coolant should preform about 8C better than just water... However water wetter + coolant 50/50 with water should not work as well as just Engine Ice (Supposedly). its easy to show results from a test that are really one sided. Not much will be better than straight distilled water except straight distilled water + water wetter. Coolant works much worse for cooling than straight water, but it adds protection from corrosion and from freezing. I hear you can run straight water wetter + distileld but it's too risky for me. The tests should have been conducted comparing water wetter + 50/50 coolanr/water VS. Straight engine ice in order for it to be a fair comparison. Otherwise they are compairing apples to oranges. This is because engine ice is pre-mixed coolant and water wetter is simply an addative for your coolant. So if they were jsut adding engine ice or using straight engine ice Vs, water+water wette the results are VERY biased. Just curious, I don't have the mag but I would like more info. Thanks.

I hate those gaurds too, but I still have my front fenders.

linkage? I just payed $20 for this shit (Engine Ice)! Most people swear by it, and I don;t trust mags but is there some link or something online that can attest to this? My bike ran much cooler, but after all the work I did I can't know for sure if it was due to the coolant or not (added cooling head, and running 1/2 110 )? Or maybe water wetter payed off that Mag to make it look good? I have used water wetter in the past and it works for all kinds of stuff ATV's Car's even liquid cooling for PC's...The engine ice is new so I thought I would give it a shot, but if thats true ill have to dump some toxic water wetter in there to get rid of its non-toxic biodegradableness. Are you sure it wasetn purple ice or some other "ice" coolant I know there are quite a few of them out there.

anyone have any ideas what to do for the optics? the optics these things come with are more geared towards flashlights and thus may really be blinding to someone behind me, I was trying to think of a way to illuminate something more like brake light optics, the blue color is too cool, it reacts with anything neon like a blacklight.

I hear the fattys work better than SST's after portin. But I have no proof or anything like that, SST's were designed around the stock porting.

ahh yes thats probably it then. The bike flat out hauls ass, although I need bigger carbs and reeds so that I can flip myself over on take off Guess I get some smaller domes too

I was just concerned because I was told it should be around 160-170 THe mods were fresh bore 2 sizes over, 20CC domes w/ NOSS cooling head and PassionRE's 12-port on the cylinders The gauge has a tube its a MityVac Compression Test kit, brand new from Alba I hand tightened it for both cylinders, Im running 1/2 110 1/2 91 pump gas

With 20CC domes in getting about 139 PSI...What should I do? This is after riding a tank or 2 on a fresh rebuild. It ran good but is this bad?

is the stock clutch that bad? I just tossed some HD springs on mine (3 of them are HD)

Lol where did you hear that? I don't see how that could possibly be the same lol

Heres a pic of the LED's im using for headlights on my Nitro RC car, I'm going to use the same ones for my tail lights only in blue, so they are not quite as bright

motoworld at like $18 for the bottle

yes, it works, well too...But now im using engine ice coolant. Good results so far.

Ill be at gordons near the little kiddy track in the center. We usualy camp really close to there. Ill be out there the friday after thanksgiving till sunday.

im in the middle of designing one myself, Only im tired of those piddly LED's so Ill proabby toss on some 1 WATT LED's that with optics are the size of a quarter Just need to test my circuit out this week, Then the blue led's will be blinding who ever is unlicku enough to get behind me These ones say "treat as a class "something" laser on them) If it turns out good I may make some for friends and members, but they won't be as cheap as the ones on Ebay cause these LED's go for about $15-20 each. I hope to have it done soon, but it depends how much work I get slammed with in mhy classes this week. If 1 watt isn't bright enough (should be too bright actually) Ill toss on some 3 watt or even some 5 watt LED's although these would probably make better headlights than taillights lol.

Just put your head on last week and went for a test drive this weekend, Clean looks and solid design, and I didn't have to change any studs. Very satisfied so far. Although I did not install by myself the O-rings etc look prettys imple and straight forward. And at least now I won't have to replace a gasket every time I rebuild. The O-rings look like they seal much better.

add some water wetter, good toxic shit Mine used to boil over a little when going up and then down large sand dunes, like it would rock the coolant out over the pipe when the coolant was near boiling...I stopped refilling the collant bottle and added water wetter, and the problem stoped

thanks guys, took it out this weekend and it stayed ncie and cool with engine ice + cooling head. Guess Ill just toss the water wetter in my truck or something

If you havent changed your main jets yet your going to want to do them at the same time, you have to remove the mains to get to the pilots. It is easy but its a PAIN IN THE ASS with those huge carb tops...I know cause I just did mine like 5 times! Just to let you know with new main jets and the lid on the airbox my banshee would BOG WAY WAY down. Pull the lid off and it screams! Huge difference there...You can mod the stock filter plate...Chop off all the plastic extendor pieces untill you have just the plate, then seal it to your stock airbox with clear RTV silicon and either Zipties or Bolts through the top... I have been running this setup for nearly 5 years now without any issues. just make sure you check to see if dust or anything is getting in on your first ride. I'd go with 300/310/320 mains (you will have to play around) and size 30 pilots (I ran the stock ones with this setup for 4 years though)

FMF recomends 30/32 pilots for K&N no lid and Fattys...I would probably go with the size 30, as the 32.5 if enough for all that + porting and advanced timing on mine (Even a little rich i htink but idles fine, dies when you pull the choke out though). just pulled my stock one and it was a 25.

Damn man that sucks I have been using golden spectro 2-stroke tranny oil in mine and I have no problems, other than a lighter wallet because I change it too often heh. Guess your not going to go to fast with burned out clutch plates. I was thinking about getting that same clutch setup! I was thinking your jetting at first since I was having the same problem this weekend out at Superstition, It would rev high and not make much power for how high it was revved, found out my jetting was off had to move from 350's to 370's and I think I may try 380's now Anyways, at least your on top of the problems now I also found moving from 25 (stock) to 32.5 pilots helped a little with lowend hesitation.

well Jim really opened the cylinders up. I went out this weekend only going up 3 jet sies and changing to toomy needles and I was way to lean...Ended up putting the largest jets in for my stock carbs that I had 370's and I think I can still go with larger jets! Also switched form 25s mains to 32.5s. I can see that the stock carbs don't seem to be big enough for maximum power, it feels as if the motor wants to pull even more still..Much faster than before though, can't wait to try out those 33mm carbs. Many places told me Im crazy for even purchasing 370's with any port job, but hey it looks like I needed them after all. I have a feeling it will be the same way with these carbs.