Justintoxicated

Sorry to take up more space, but exactly what else will I need to run 30mm carbs? or will they just fit right in place of the old ones?

definately all starts with the head unit! And you also have to have a good amp, alternator that makes enough power to run it, speaker enclosure, and good speakers, and a vehicle that can take the volume (not vibrate to hell). I have never even heard of a W4! You can bring them over but I warn ya I cheated, Mine are in a nice big banpass box, not to mention its in the crew-cab of a small truck I'd like to repalce mine with a W7, but then I feel that I hardly ever turn them up, so maybe a W3 would work for me. W0's are super efficient speakers, there TONS of subs that will be louder than my 0's im not saying that mine are the loudest in any way, but they are almost always alot more expensive or dual voice coil. I dunno about those kenwood amps, not even their excelon ones, my friend had one for a while it just kept breaking, I mean they are decent but there are much better amps out there, especially for driving subs.

I can't beleive this, even my old JL W0's out pound so many of the newer subs n crap these other companes make. They have been run overpowered for so long now and have never blown. I got 2 12's in a box for $240 and this was something like 6 or 7 years ago; thats a VERY reasonable price. Your goign to have to pay more $$ to squeez large amounts of bass out of small tight enclosures. The clarity of the sound in there newer subs in combination with durability is hard to touch. My friend bought 2 sony ES subs 2 years after I purchased mine payed over 2x as much and they were sloppy as hell and could not reach near the same levels of sound. Another friend also like the sonys but quickly blew them up. Sometimes you get what ya pay for, my sterio system has lasted a very long time now though so for 240 they were worth every penny I spent. The quality of there stuff the way there new subs mount, and the clarity of the bass are what make them so expensive. Many other brands of speakers just don't hold up over the years, and for a similar priced fosgate I belive JL will blow them out of the water in terms of clarity, percision and durability. If anyone thinks their $240 subs can out crank my 6-7 year old subs then bring it on! I don't care how new they are. Again the older alpines were great quality, so i guess its JVC that builds them now, probably junk then...I like quality of the eclipshe stuff but IMO detachable face is a must. I don't care if the sterio won't work in someone elses car after its been ripped off, and your windows have been smashed in. Your still going to have to replace yours! So far my Hifonics amp has been great, but then again its only driving 260 watts of subs.

I liked their first CD better.

I have a stock head if you want it, it has a slight casting flaw on one of the domes but I don't think its anything serious as it worked fine on my shee for 4 years untill I swapped it for an aftermarket one. It isn't modded or anything PM me if your interested I have pics.

damn maybe thats the problem, well what all is needed for a stroker besides a $400 crank? I know I would not be able to afford one for quite some time. So I could not use my current cylinders with their porting for a stroker? Guess its a little late now lol...

Well I find myself varying the throttle, speeding up and slowing down on transitions from dune to dune. Im hardly ever going slow though, but I do need the power to be there when I hit the throttle. I also love racing up the hills as I love feeling the top end speed. I really do not want to compromise top end since thats the most fun part of being out there. However, I can't be on the pipe the entire time while duning, and should I need to let up because there is something in my way or im making a transition I need the power to be there when I get back on it. I shift alot of course, but sometimes I find it hard to get back on the pipe after im already heading up a hill. I know 35 are a bit bigger than what Im looking for for sure. Im getting some 19 cc domes and running a 50/50 mix right now, I know the domes will help with the bottem end some but will they be enough to allow me to shift into a higer gear after im already heading up a hill? Mostly I find my transition from 3rd to 4th gear a hard one to hit when not hauling ass. Im not exactly sure that what I need is bottem end though, I just need enough power down low so that I can accelerate quickly back onto the pipes top end. For instance if someone slows down for a witches eye in front of me I hate having to shift all the way down to second or sometimes first gear to continue making it up the hill. I'd like to be able to back off the throttle some in 3rd then nail it and get back on the pipe. Also I do not want to need to be in 4th at the base of the hill when i race up test or olds, We start the races too close to the bottem of the hill, and besides the whoops are hard to deal with when nailing them at the top of 4th gear, I would like to be able to get on the pipe in 3rd and eventualy shift up to 4th 1/2 way up the hill. Hope this better explains what im looking for. I dunno where to get 30's at this time either.

Yea I have his 12 port too although not a stroker like you have Its gerat, TONS of power! I don't have the larger carbs yet either, how much bottem end did you lose with the 34s? Im looking for something that will make this engine easier to ride through the dunes than it is with my stock carbs. I have to be on the pipe alot more right now, but its because my carbs are way too small. But on the flats the shee is much much faster than before even with the stock carbs! I would definately recomend his work. I have some pics also, if your interested in sending your cylinders to Jim you can drop me a PM and i "might" send them to ya. I went up 2 teeth on the front and the bike still wants to wheelie more than it did with the 13 tooth. Im thinking I might need an extended swing arm in the future I dunno how you do it with a minus 2, Im already leaning way forward, even with 2 people on the shee leaning forward it still feels like wants to wheelie when it hits (but im too careful to allow too much of that with someone on the back) Customer Service is TOP notch, I can't even imagine better possible service!

Well The time is coming to look for new carbs. (hopefully anyways) I was going to go with the 33mm flatslides, but I'm not sure how much bottem end I would lose. Im wondering what other Glamis/Gordons duners run? Will 33's set me up mostly for drag? I like to shoot the hills, but mostly dune, Dragging is fun too but I do these 2 things more often. So Im wondering what would be a better decision for me and my riding style. What else wil I need to purchase to run larger carbs? I have PassionRE's 12 port but I'm having trouble making the decision between 30's and 33's. I probably have some time to decide (untill summer), but in the mean time I'm keeping my eyes out for deals that will be hard to pass up.

isn't the electrix stator split into 3 channels though? Im not sure how they divide them out, but its also a good idea not to max it out. I would go wtih 75 watt bulbs to be safe. I hear electrix overrates their stators slightly, + some of the power is only for the 3rd channel. With 100's you would probably only have bright lights at WOT, and they would go out almost compleatly idle. Im running ricky stators 200x1 stator and with 75 watt bulbs they are nearly out at idle. But make good light as soon as I get on the throttle.

yea I went with 350's and did a WOT test and they were to lean. THey gave me a 260 and a 360 on mistake so I went right to the 370's and they worked alot better. Might be slightly on the rich side, but much better than the 350's. Im running 50/50 mix with 110, or recently 114. I have been trying to sync the stock carbs but they suck. I can't wait to get some 33's or 30's. I was just thinking about pulling the cylinders mostly to make sure the rings are alright on the piston. But if I shoudl jsut leave them on I may do that.

I would ask the guy that poted your Banshee if he set you up for larger carbs

yea its the right one, here is a picture of the left cylinder Hey Jim. I was thinking about pulling the cylinders inspecting the pistons and rings and having SDD inspect the cylinders before I put the new domes on. Or do you really think its not necessary?

so it sounds like it must be leaking case oil then into the crank? I checked the oil level and it was still full? What do you suggest I do next to find out what the issue is? Should I pull the cylinders off? Do I need to hone my cylinders and replace the pistons and rings? Or should I open up the carbs and look in all the jets first?

double post ...

well do a compression test before and after you put it on, if your compression is higher with the 21CC domes then you will probably notice a little difference. If not then your bike will just run and look cooler

did you re-jet when you put the K&N on?

damn lol, might as well give it a shot, everything elsesuddenly needs work anyways lol.

No I didn't rev up the bike, not for a very long period of time before I checked the compression anyways. Yes there is some scoring on the inside of the cylinder walls, I can feel the scratch with my finger nail although they are still smooth enough that I can't feel them with my fingers...My compression actualy went up from 140/1389or139 to 145 in both cylinders after the last trip. One of the domes is nearly black, that dome came off the same side with the scratches and extra carbon. There was no coolant in the cylinders. mix ratio is 36 to 1 with castor oil. The carbs were out of sync before the last trip but I feel I got them back in sync before I went out, it idled much better and still does than before. (they were off a mm or 2 before) Any ideas? To top it off now I have the flu.

no, I just lost alot of compression so I thought it was time for a rebuild. Ill check the oil tomarrow though. Damn it sucks being sick.

the springs are already compressed, and its still compleatl loose. it has no tension at all, so it is doing no good. The other 3 springs are fine and they all have tension. All 4 springs worked fine before I remove the engine and put it back in...Do I need to remove the engine again?

iin addition to the problem im having with mounting the pipes I took the head off to change the domes. These have 1 weekend of riding on them since I put on the fresh topend I dunno what wrong with this thing but im starting to hate this frickin atv.

Well after the engine was removed from the frame and put back in I have been having trouble mounting the pipes. On of the springs has no tension at all so I pulled it off, the other side is fine, But I do not know why im hainv problems on the one side. The lower spring still goes on but it seems like its about to fall off it is so lose. Anyone have any idas?

FMF just sent me a few for free when i called asking about getting those little rubber gromits for the pipe mounts which they also sent me for free

how big is this dune compaired to china wall? I really hope I get to go and tear it up.