Justintoxicated

depends on color, and watts. Its not jsut the bulbs but they need Heatsinks, Good thermal epoxy, and a specific voltage or current to run properly. The 5 watt LED's are very expensive up to $50, 1 watts are usually around $15-20 after shipping and HS. Lots of factors though, luckily the reds are amongst the cheaper ones. Still expensive toys to replace. Luckily their typical 1/2 life is aorund 10,000 + hours but they can go longer than that depedning on the light, HS, Bin, Voltage, Temperature etc. Anyways 10,000 of riding is quite a lot longer than my top-ends last

4x4's are more utility and mudding, they will go up anything, but slow. For dunes Get a banshee or the new yfz450. the shee is WAY cheaper and has arm ripping acceleration, I have not had a chance to ride a 450 yet, but im not convinced its better than a shee yet (they did not even give it a cool name jsut YFZ 450 ) , stock vs stock it will be faster, but stock shee pipes are so restrictive, and for the extra 1500 the 450 costs you could easily mod the shee to go faster than a 450. other than the 450 there is no other 4 stroke I would really consider for dune riding, unless you don't have enough $$ or just want a cruizer.

sorry to post this in yuor post but I have an engine cleaning wand for my air compressor, It basicaly is a normal air nozel and a tube comeing from it which you put in a cleaner of your choice to blast it onto the engine. Youc an adjust flow of the liquid to air etc. Would simple green be the best use for this or is there a degreaser that does not come in a spray can?

well it appears now that the circuit is working properly, Im going to have it tested out compleatly tomarrow.. On of the RED LED's still lights up, since they are in series that explains why the other appeared dead also. Perhaps it was just a defective LED, but for the price it had better not be!

We have a democracy? What A joke...We have one of the weakest forms of democracy possible....A strong democracy is one where the leaders are able to guid the people to the point that after they leave we are able to lead ourselves... We have very little power in deciding laws or anything the government regulates...I blame it all on capitalism.... Still better off than many places, but we are not as well off as we should be for how much wealth our nation owns...I just don't think its the people who get the laws made, its all about the government brain washing the people to make more profits, or worse yet, more capital... "We fought your wars with all our hearts, You sent us back in body parts, You took our wills with the truth you stole, We offer prayers for you long lost soul. The remainder is, An unjustifiable, egotistical, power struggle At the expense of the American Dream, Of the American Dream, of the American, Of the American." System Of A Down

A stock YFZ is also $1000+ more than a banshee with pipes, and filter. If you toss that $1000 in a banshee is SHOULD walk all over a stock 450...If you continue from there putting more into each bike, the bashee with the same amount of $$ into it should win in a drag race. I ride with a couple, and the guy with the 450 was even telling me that banshees are still the best way to go for speed, and how much he liked my bike. I told him I liked his bike too. I doubt mods to a 4 stroke will keep up with a banshee I just don't see it. I need to go race a couple with my 12 port and see how I do, But I have a feeling I won't be losing to any 450's unless they are built like that duncan one. I don't understand how a 4-stroke can have enough top end to go faster than a banshee up a hill like china wall that musta been a cool site to watch... this is where the shee should be king but be proabbyl had spent alot more $$$... but those duncan racing guys can do quite alot to their bikes. Im willing to bet there was over 10g's into that bike you described. They also probably have an advantage over the whoops cause lets face it stock banshee suspension sucks! $$ for $$ a Banshee should win from what I have sceen. But you can't compair a stock shee with its restrictive pipes to a 450 when the 450 costs $1500+ more. Im sure the 450's are nice and im not dissing that bike, I would LVOE to have one, but for king of the dunes I have yet to put my money on the 450. I'd love to race some 450's with pipes and cam and whatever else they do to them, vs my banshee with pipes porting, and soon carbs and reeds.

Double check the head is sealed down properly eh? So install it remove it? and install it again LMAO? The pistons I have now are for cylinders 2 sizes over, I don't have the box with me at work so I don't know the exact size.

I'd recomend you send them top Jim (PassionRE) But I don't want you to go as fast as me, maybe you should go to trinity or something LOL. No shit Jims work is clean and top notch. I hear GRR also does good work and so does Patriot, but as of now I'm glad I went with Jim. Jim can tailor your Job to your needs, and he wants to make sure you get the porting you need. I fi get another bike I know where im sending it!

OMG I lit this up and had everythign installed friday night! ....Before I discovered a coolant leak in my cylinders, the shee is now down for reapir. All I can say was Holy Shit those only having olittle lights are bright. I was worried that only having one up fron't and one behind would not be enough to light up my engine's NOSS head, but its enough to instead light up my entire garadge, and these ones are only 30 lumens each Vs other colors like cyan that are rated at 80! The blue is just my favorite color for this type of lighting, and anyting NEON seems to react to it like a black light...This is one of the coolest colors I have ever sceen and staring at the LED's directly they make a strange irrey halo of light. You will all be suprised I think im not sure if my camera will pick it up properly. My friend put those cyans on his 3 wheeler and now some more friends want me to make headlights for their 50's! Not sure what blew in my circuit, but it took the red taillgiht with it. I think it was my regulator (I drove it in spec but I guess shit happens). Ill have to make a new circuit soon. Otherwise ill be sure to take a pic of the blue underlighting for you, the smile on my face was huge untill the red's went out....

I dunno, probably the next size up, these ones of a whole 15 gallons on them. + I don't know how to fix the bolt I stripped out, so I guess im looking at $1500 on top of the 1200 I just spent. Maybe its time to sell the shee and get something else. I love the power. But I can't afford to keep fixing this.

if I have to hone it now, im done till next winter since I have no money (just had it honed and new pistons and rings), thats why I threw the head back on...but if I blow it at least you can rub it in my face. I would not be able to get it fixed untill next season sometime (honed and new pistons), so I think im going to just run it?

its not very deep at all, just deep enough to show up. it is no deeper than the scratch on the other cylinder, and that is already disappearing after only 20 minutes of riding.

I figure I'll just toss it back together since I don't have any money anyways. But just wondering how bad this damage is. Had a little coolant leak, this is the damage it caused, I already replaced the O-ring that split, I was a little more careful this time, and the head went on a little easier too. Last time I had to slide the dome a little cause I didn;t have it centered or something, I questioned the ring on the bottem but figured it would be fine...Guess I slid it a little too much and pinched it a little. The bike overheated while I was riding. There was however still coolant in the cylinders when I pulled the head...Ruined my little trip to Gordons Well this weekend, but im hoping it's not too serious because im supposed to go out next weekend too and I have 9 gallons of gas to burn! Now my only problem is figuring out where in San Diego I can buy a metric tap, I somehow cross threaded one of the engine mounts in my lower case, guess the mount was not lined up, so I cross threaded it about 2 way up into the case before it got hard to turn...

Yes I can probably make one for anyone who wants it. But your probably not going to like the price. These LEDS are expensive, and everything is made by hand (circuit too) so I won't post a price untill after I post pics of me lighting these things up thanks for the encouragement though

Well here is what I made, close to finishing them up today, just have to drill the mounting holes. The 3 watt Blues are 30 lumens The 1 watt Reds (The big ones with optics) are 27 lumens Blue high power LED's just are not as bright as others, the 1 watt blues that look the same as the reds are only 10 lumens, but most other 3 watt LEDS are up in the 80 lumens range! Anyways I had to sacrifice some brightness for Bluuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu underlighting but I think you will all be suprised when I light this up. Not many people seem interested in this post, but jsut wait till I get some pics. Heres the beta setup Ver .8 ; V.5 was just a taillight and my prototype, which was still very cool im getting alot better. Here is version .5 (2 1 watt Cyan LEDS 30 @ lumens) Improvements over .5 are the following more sturdy twin circuit construction provides increased power. Smaller Project enclosure Better thermal interfacing material (Artic Silver Epoxy) Modified Taillight bracket (LED's do not have to be seperated, and rubber insulation rather than clear silicon, perhaps more to come) Added 2 3 watt LEDs for underlighting yet still shrunk project enclosure containing a dual circuit drasticaly. The brackets are still betas as they are not polished or anything but will work. the twin LED holding bracket is a little over 3 inches across action pics soon to come.

There is only one wire comeing out of mine too. The other wire is a ground wire and should be grounded. Anyways, I have a spare stock banshee voltage regulator for sale if you need it, make me an offer, I got a beefier one for an aftermarket stator, but the stock one still works fine and is in great shape. shoot me a PM if your interested.

Actually I used no compression. That's probably why the middle pic is kinda blury, but I didn't feel like dick'n with it. Looks good enough for the girls I go with! converting to gif greatly decreases the quality and size of the file, I was just suggesting using web compression instead (not both). Might be a slightly larger file though. You go to photoshop and click "save for web" adjsut to appropriate quality and file size and save it...pretty easy stuff I also think it looks good enough though nice sig!

180, and can lift 360 holf shit bro! When I worked up to 190 my max was like 2 45's on each side, 1 Rep lol *(i did this once) But im 6 foot and kinda skinny, or I was, I stopped going now im gainging weight somewhere else. I wish I could get back into it like HS and first years of college...i guess I could if I stopped doing all my other hobbies. Just don't have the time right now, But I think im starting to look like shit again (muscle wise) It helps to work out when riding a shee and riding other things too GF's take up alot of time also, they woudl rather hang out than go to the gym with ya...I really need to cancel my membership I have been paying for 2 years now and only gone a handful of times lol..After a 10 hour day I just wanna go home, work on the shee, or play the computer or hang with my girl and what not, I just can't do it anymore. I'd probably have sever shakes even lifting the 45's a few time now lol. I heard creatine was bad for you, of course I used it when I started anyways... cause I was a skinny bastard, but eventually I stopped, if you do take it make sure to drink TONS of watter.

Ahh now I see, I was thinking "compleat plastic desert tank ment that it was a plastic tank lol...It should read "compleat plastics and desert tank" oh well im dumb lol.

yea its nice, Backcountry did a good job on this one. What does this mean anyways? "brand new direct drive lockup" is that something to do with the way the gears are? Like straight vs angled?

I hear teh ricky stator ones are good, but I dunno about these. Over the years I keep hearing durablue sucks though, thats for sure.

Thanks again man! Ill try to tighten them when I get home homie.

the only problem with heater hose is liek the stock crap they use it breaks down quickly and will begine to leak, nothing like ending up with oil all over you and your plastics I'd go for a billet clamp, I have had goo luck with the one pice O-ring connections, but others may suggest something else. You should be able to get the Orings for the Fattys where they attach to the engine at any local ATV shop. Pickup a better air filter and some jets while your there if you have not already.

the toomys will give you more peak HP than the FMF's (T5's vs Fattys) I dunno about SSTs Vs T6's But the Fattys will give you a couple more HP all the way up to the top (more area) than the toomys Just depends what you want... Banshees are around 35HP stock I believe. 40+ might be the power of the engine but not rear-wheel as mentioned. And dynos will varey. As for mounting, banshee frames are not perfect, its probably your frame that is slightly off rather than the pipes. Don't worry though its normal, you may have to slightly tweak the pipe to get it into place. You should also modify your air box and filter at the same time you get pipes. Make sure to re-jet

what kinda sealer? Will yamabond work? Clear RTV silicon? or do I need to buy something else? Also the piece can be removed without removing the head right? (sounds dumb but I didn't look it over all that well when the head was off) Its not leaking much, jsut a few drops here and there.