Justintoxicated

I have the skat track mohawks and I no longer really like them, In a drag they are fine, but I find them digging too much in the dunes. I have almost ate it a few times because of how bad they dig in. Better than stockers I guess, but not what I want anymore...I think im going to go with ITP's all the way around, if only someone could verify they are better than the Skate 2's or even sand tires unlimited all the way around... I just don't think Skat-Tracks are my thing, I know so many people who have bought them and hated them because they fall apart, in comparison to sand tires unlimited......

circuit was re-built and I tested the taillight amps, Perfect! Musta been a bad component... Just need to insulate the 2 lights tomarrow (hopefully) and I'll be finished...Unfortunately the banshee is not running, but I may be able to simulate it with an old PC PSU for a picture, although the lights will be at a constant brightness in this case.

what about the ricky stator A-arms are they still any good?

Hey guys, I don't think im going to make it. I have some sorta coolant leak. I thoguht it was a split ring in the head, but I was really careful when i put it on this time after replacing the bad o-ring. When I start the bike it starts spitting coolant out onto the pipe and shoots coolant out the pipes also. Im now guessing I need to replace a seal on my crank. (the seal was just replaced when I had my crank welded, But I guess it has already gone to shit. I think im going to need to split the cases again, so ill probably be out of luck untill next year or longer (since I lose my job when I graduate college)...

I AGREE!!!...man winchester bay and spinreel make glamis and st. anthony look like a childs sandbox!!!! the dunes out here in oregon have to be a good 1000'-1500' in elevation...whoa! Mike so you have to re-jet 1/2 to the top lol I still hope to make that dumont trip, I hear they have a nice big hill, but right now there are bad engine noises on the shee, I think there might be coolant in the tranny fluid OMG Figured, since I jsut put it all back together that something else would go wrong...

I believe stock is 14 tooth, so take a look. My favorite ratio with FMF pipes and a K&N was 13:41 I could easily pull 4th and almost 5th up the steep side. 14:41 was a little better on the less steep side, since you don't need to drop a tooth to get into 4th on that side of the hill... I like the steep side better for racing though, especialy against 4 strokes

I would take it apart, see if there is grit in the diff or bearings, take it apart check everything over, then make your order...Might save you some cash... I don't have an RC10 but I have an HPI savage...About to toss the tiny 21 BB back in it for this weekend, because I had to send the S25 .25 back to HPI.... Grrrrrrr Best thing is RCs are easy as hell to work on...

where are the grease zergs?

one of my friends has one but it will be a while untill I see him...The clear clutch cover is cool because when he broke a seal we sould see the coolant in his oil.. I guess you get to watcht he oil turn black also

I got the softer ones made for show bikes and sand from rocky mountain ATV..So far no trouble and the help keep the sand off the oily shocks. They look much better than the standard ones, but I guess they are mroe prone to tearing etc, unless you onjly ride in the sand like me I can post an image of them if anyone needs to see.

yea, well the main problem right now is just time... Im supposed to go out this weekend to the desert, but it is not looking good at all. I have the coolant leak in the head fixed, but now there is a strange sound coming from somewhere in the engine case...I think it could possibly be a blown seal...Im afraid to go, but SDD is going to take a listen or look for me tonight so hopefully ill get to the bottem of this too..I have all the ideas in place to solve the issues with the Heatsinks for the LEDs needing to be isolated, jsut need to find time to build a new circuit and add the insulation between the frame. All in good time I suppose...

yes I have, I may do that in the future, I have run into some problems using red LED's it appears the Heatsinks also need to be isolated, the light on ebay looks pretty cool but the LED's are so bright you can't see the housing anyways The one I have now uses optics that would not fit the LED's but a flood would probably work fine for a taillight also. so it could be done Maybe after I get a working model together ill try it.

I meant to say for true and weld, I probably could have had it welded for free, but not trued.

don't worry about neons, my new lighting kit with 2 small 3 watt LED's puts them to shame...have some faith, I have run into small problem, but not with the underlighting, just the taillight. Just waiting for the store to get some engine ice in stock so I can light them up and show ya...Neons are shit to me now, too big, break to easy and suck up way too much juice. + these LED's 2 are just as bright if not brighter than 2 large neons and have a much richer more true color. They are about 30 lumens each (3 watts is an insaine amount of power for an LED). They also have a 20,000 hour life expectancy for the 3 watters. Colors other than blue put out up to 80 lumens each, I have yet to play with anything other than blue, the blues are very very bright at around 30 lumens they light up my garadge. Anyways a pic says a thousand words I suppose. So just wait another week or so and ill have my prototype done. You won't be wanting neons I gaurantee it!

cheapest place I found around here was $90m every other place wanted about 130-150 but to $200... Thats what I get for living in San Diego though I guess.

The kit does not tell you how to modify your transfers, send yrous to jim and don't look back...Ill decide for ya lol... I took a chance and sent mine to Jim a few months ago when He was not as big a name on the forums, now iM glad I took that chance, everyone is sending Jim their stuff. The works is exceptional and the price is right, give him a call then call the other places, Thats what I did...well We talked through email but same diff.

well I hope Im hitting the nail on the head, stock banshee technology is pretty damn old...Yet when i bought mine in 2000 it was still the fastest atv even stock, but thats befoer all these new 4-strokes came out... Not much has changed on the banshee recently that would affect performance so I WOULD HOPE THAT A NEW 2004 ATV COULD BEAT IT STOCK. However, once you start beefing up the banshee, even for the same money it should be able to take a 450, which to me is suprising because normally it should cost more...

about this big --- and this long ---------------

yea stop it! I already with I had a stroker instead of a 12 port...Grrrrr Jerk!

you could sell it to me for $1000 im 6 foot and big enough to ride it Would removing a couple inches of foam from the seats really work? or is that just a myth?

yup

You should have no toruble with 450's unless they have dumped tons of cash into them...Just with my 12-port from jim, it hauls ass so i can't even picture a stroker...Ok maybe I could but still

For me (same kinda riding at glamis, gordons etc It will; be a tuff decision between ITP SandStars Or the Old School Skate II's I love my Skate II's I hear the Sandstars track a bit better, but the Skaet II's are lighter, so for me it is a tuff decision. Does anyone know which one of these 2 is more durable? My Skates are down to 1/2 paddle (in some places due to chunking) after 5 years of riding and I'll be in the market for a new pair next season. IMO for sliding and manuvering, weight, and traction all combined these are your best 2 choices, sand sharks etc are too heavy for my taste, but will do if your on a budget. Also if you just wanna throw roost lower the pressure in your paddles Skate II's can throw a huge roost when they are low on air heh. if your sand dragging more than dunning then stick with straight paddles for sure, but you sound like you ride more like me, and there is no comparison to Skate II's after you have had them to straights for sliding around etc. I was going to try skats but everyone I know that runs them says they wear out too fast or the paddles fall off (on the V shapped ones I know you can fix them but what a pain)...However I'm running the lightweight mohawks up front and they are decent. I think I'll probably switch to ITPs all around when I get the chance though. A little more hookup may be jsut what my new morot needs

I use golden spectro motorcycle gear oil. It's supposed to have extra addatives that help to preserve your wet clutch. Im not talking about friction modifiers that are bad in SOME conventional oil, just that this stuff IS supposed to be better than conventional oil...This is a long ongoing debate, but $6 for a quart vs 3 vs new tranny is a no brainer for me. I don't see much metal shavings in my oil when I drain it either, I usualy don't see any unless I have neglected to change it for a long time. I usualy change it every 2-3 trips to the dunes depending on how many gallons I put through her or how hard I am on the clutch. The only time I have ever really sceen metal shavings was when i first broke it in then there was a little sparkle, now when i change it you have to really pay close attention to see any at all. not saying conventional oil is HORRIBLE, just that this stuff is a little better. A new tranny is more than a new topend, yet everyone is so concerned about using the best oil in their pre-mix? Just my 2 cents.

we managed to get the bolt back in properly without tapping, or a helicoil, It appears there was jsut something stuck in it from when it was crossthreaded at the bottem, but after pressed past that it goes into the rest of the threads fine...What a relief!