Justintoxicated

I saw them at alba the other day, I agree I don't like the way it looks. But I can't wait to hear how it will performe. The structure of the bikes looks VERY similar to the YFZ450, but the plastics are not as cool

Ikikazz, I ordered enough LEDs to make you a setup (all red) since I had to order some for myself anyways. it will be a while though, I think I may have found someone to help me with the brackets too. I'll try to find out soon. I have alot of things going on right now, I need to get my shee running ASAP.

Do suspension and wait ntill you need a re-build to do the engine. I got Jim's porting and im really wishing I had suspension now, I ride mostly dunes like 90% and I can see whre suspension would be nice. When your doing 70+ on the road, and you can't see far enough ahead, some good shocks and would be nice insurance. Widening the Banshee would help to make it more stable when launching off the tops of the dunes and also when you fly off one because of that sand illusion of being flat. I hear a longer arm will also help you with the whoops a the bottem of the larger hills. I need one to keep the front end down. You can lean forward as much as you want but I bleep the throttle too much going up that razor back I'll surely flip myself over. I don't even have a stroker, just a fast prot job. just don't go too long on the swing arm or it will be hard to ride in the dunes. I went with porting because I needed to rebuild anyways, I was origionaly planning to get suspension. You can easily go over 1500 with just suspension mods.

I can't see much from that one cause your bad cam, it looks more like rust in that pic lol...I'm almost done with the ruff grit on one cylinder...need mroe sand paper, then its to 180 - 400- 600 I don;t think I will be able to nail EVERY nook and valley doing this by hand. Can someone suggest me some bits for a dremel to make things look fairly decent in harder places to reach? I might buy a dremel tool for my air compressor tomarrow too, because teh dremel is just too fat...I have new respect for people who do this to the compleatly polished level.

Yea, I used the ground coat on the computer cases I customized, Once I sprayed it I decided to leave only the gorund coat..It really is good stuff.. So the ground coat is also temp resistant up to 500F? cause it does not say on the bottle...I guess I'll sand for a few days and see how far I get by next weekend and determin if I want to use it or not. How is it holding up on your frame? I was thinking about using it on a few places, but decided I need powder coat for that. Do you have a pic of your cylinders with the ground coat and metalcast?

I started sanding and now Im thinking I just should have sprayed it and left the cast look.. This is going to take FOREVER... That ground coat is sounding better and better ;P

I have used the ground coat before and I was not too happy with it, I mainly want it to match the Noss head...Should I buy adhesion promoter or jsut spray the metal cast on? Im not sure the ground coat is high temp? I mainly use it for plastic in the past.

great thanks man! BTW how should I prep them? 400 grit paper after the paint stripper?

to check spark, undo the plugs stick the plug wires on them, hold bu the rubber and put the end of the plug close to smethng metal (Chrome pipes etc) and kick it and see if you can see the spark jump.. Make sure you have the choke tube connect that connects one carb to the other(between them). Th bike won't start without the choke tube connect the carbs.

Since I have to pull the cylinders off today, I was thinking about painting them to match my NOSS head (Red) with the metalcast (anno finish) paint. It says it is resistant to 500F, and is for engine headers, but is paint heat resistant enough? Otherwise I'll probably just wait till I can afford polishing (which I plan to eventually do anyways), I just have a can of this stuff already and thought it would look nice. If not metalcast, I also have a new airbrush im dying to try out, but I have no idea what kinda paint to buy for it.

pretty sweet, someone buy them and let us know how they hold up! I'm guessing you need a battery for them to blink in the right pattern though?

not sure yet, it really depends how many people are interested, the more people that are, the cheaper the parts will cost me (order in bulk). Somewhere around $100 though more than likely..But don't quote me on that yet...And definately wait for the pictures coming in about 2 weeks I'll order some extra reds I suppose. I think the taillgiht without optics (directed beam) might work better also, but the choice would be yours, I have to find a place to make me some brackets, I'm in the middle if enhancing the one shown in the picture, will take some time though.

you can port them yourself, I did mine, in the future I will get the exact specs though. I want V-force, but I may go TDR with my ported cages. I dunno yet, im broke.. lol

not much, water wetter about $8, and coolanol about $7, vs $15 for engine ice...Although you won't use the whole bottle of water wetter. Just some of it. Prices may varey a bit, and it depends what coolant your mixing it with.

yea, great support! The guy I know that owns a shop was trying to convince me to buy a Pro Design, I told him other heads cool better and he started talking about what happens when your out at glamis and you blow an O-ring and you can't find one, or you can't change the domes because you have to order them and ait a month. Then along came the noss head, that can use pro design domes (although the special cuts seem MUCH better design; minus the "special" special cut I got lol) and Cools better, AND has better support. The head was great with a good annodized job too, the crazyest thing is that as MY luck would have it, this is exactly the type of thing that would happen to me, just plain bad luck. No matter how good of quality something is, when I buy it it will be bad or break.

Yea, NP I'll send them back then when I get the new ones(19CC Special Cut? )...Now I just gotta get a base gasket and I'll be set. I don't think the small ding in the cylinders will do anything, from what I have been hearing...The mark on the dome with the screwdriver in the picture is the part that protrudes, because the last rung is milled too low. it also pushed that indentation into the base piece. I'm glad you are going to replace it thats sweet! Thanks, JI

pretty cool, except I don't like rainbow...Like I said, LED's are the way to go for sure. But I can Gaurantee that just one of the 3 watt LEDs Im using will be multiple times brighter than those, and since its only 1 (or 2) they will be much lighter and easier to mount. I have to order some more right now though. Of course the ones im using are also probably more expensive, but what do you expect when your pulling 150 lumens from 2 LED's...Mine will only be pulling around 50 because they are blue, still though more than enough light...

people tend to run straight water wetter with water in their computer cooling systems, But some have found it does gunk up, and has caused a few pumps to fail, laving people with toasted hardware and a leaky mess to clean up...However I would still probably use it in my computer simply because the affects of not having it could be even worse. As this is not common, but it does mean that water wetter can gunk up. Its good stuff, I just prefer the engine ice also...Althoguh I have spent $60 on the stuff in the last month! OUCH..

Hey dlnoss here are some pics to clarify the problem... The Clue.. The dome was cut too low on top, leaving a raised step above the screwdriver where it is discolored. Here is the damage to the head, where the dome cut into it from being cut too low (The step dug into the head) This leaves the dome uneven, so it is not flush with the head. More extreme when we first removed it from the cylinders. about 20 thou off. I hope the pics clarify what Im talking about, I didn't spend alot of time with the MACRO pics so they are slightly fuzyy, do not adjust your monitor.

Ok well we got it apart today, after trying out SDD's leak down tester. VERY Cool SDD! And thanks again for your help, I owe ya! We discovered the problem to be a bad dome, The last rung on the dome's top was cut too far down .002 too much, so there was a step where the alignment cut in the domes contacts the head. This pressed into the bottem piece of the head and left an indentation in the head. Im guessing the head is shot now too I also fergot to rotate the domes like I had thought the first time so it appears I don't suck at installing heads, it was a bad dome. It was recomended I also remove the cylinders from the bottem end and blow out the coolant in the crank case with my compressor, maybe lube the bearings with some yamalube or such. So it looks like I'll need New head, New Domes, New O-rings, New Base Gasket. More Engine Ice. (Doh $60 in engine ice in a month!) I'll be sure to take pics to better explain tonight. I was hoping that I would be going out presidents weekend, but right now it all depends on getting it back together and running... On the bright side I installed the head correctly, and gained back some confidence

alba has some clear ones I was looking at today for about $80...WHen Mine go bad Im buying those, they would complement the lighting perfectly, with the right coolant dye they would glow like they were radioactive ...Sorry I dunno the dyameter.

typicaly forged are stronger, but get weaker every ride, wherer as cast start out weak and get stronger with heat cycles... Of course this also makes them more worn and brittle.. I went with weisco last time, nothign special just the industry standard IMO. Can't go wrong with them, jsut have to let your bike warm up first...Which you SHOULD do anyways. I was origionaly going to try the SS, but I hear they don't work as well with ported cylinders? I also heard some people having problems, so I just went with weisco. I hear vitos cast pistons are good too, if you need to save some money.

going to look into everything this weekend. No way in hell im sanding all the red Annodized shit off the head plate though Ill let you guys know what happens.

mine uses to hesitate a bit in 5th and 6th with a 14 tooth and paddles...I was running 320, but its hot here...Did you have the problem with the 14 tooth?

I would do both and mix 50/50 with some 110