Justintoxicated

What gas are you running? Ported Cylinders? Is it misfiring or backfiring? Detonationg possibly, is your compression testor reliable? Misseding something durring the fresh topend? Cleaned Pilot Jets with twisty tie? Factory parking brake or removed? Let us know. If you swapped plug wires and it's electrical and the side with the symptom didn't change, then that pretty much probably eliminates electrical. So then perhaps your detonating, just need to figure out why. Have you pulled the head back off?

The $150 in mounting hardware covers the cost of both of these kragen HID's which are more than likely brighter than the 35 watt Fuegos. Just an example of why I don't think the current prices are reasonable. Sure they are proabbly better quality but the Kragen lights also have replaceable parts and I'm not too concerned with the plastic housing, the glass lense and polycarbonate covers are as nice as anything, I don't even need to remove the covers when I run them. Now if I could get that handlebar setup for $200 bones with one 35 watt flood, I might be interested.

Exactly my thoughts. Esp when you have two of these already.

Why not just cut the grills off the stock ones then? Definately a cheaper solution if you just want better looks.

I like my factory Yamaha Clutch lever, way better than stock and cheap too.

It will be hard to get pics since I'm not around my bike, but they look like yours only I have a light bar that runs across. I will be heading to the dunes for presidents too. I might be selling 2 MR16's but I'm thinking about keeping the floods for now (undecided, and I need to test) Dont need all 4 anymore unless I mount 2 of them to my helmit but thats getting ridiculous. I'd actualy like to find another 35 watt car HID for the bars with a larger reflector than the trailtech, it would be easier on the electrical system to run then both MR16's.

Custom Creations also makes some nice dune A-arms. Theres no adjustments as they are already set for dune riding. Just bolt up adjust tie-rods and go (He uses Uniballs that are just a little smaller than the ones on my truck, rather than heims, and he offers gusseting), but last time I checked their website was crap ( http://www.customcreationsatv.com/) not sure if they have changed anything recently, they are a smaller shop as is QuickSand. If you need adjustment though, QS's are nice, Gary's welds look really clean on my swingarm, aircraft grade, just might be harder to initialy setup, some people get frustrated. Need to meet up with Gary at the dunes one of these days.

Yes but you have to change it 10x more frequently and it may not protect your clutch and gears as much. Gear saver is not super expensive compared to new gears, clutches etc. For the OP, do you have a magnetic drain plug? I don't normaly have any aluminum shavings but I do get some small magnetic shavings when changing oil on my magnetic drain plug. I'd be a bit concerned if it's only people using ATF- Type F that are getting aluminum shavings! Most of the wear should not be on aluminum parts other than the clutch basket... I'm not sure what the aluminum shavings would be from unless something came loose in your clutch case, or your slamming the crap out of your clutch backet or something.

If you want real bright power do the DC conversion,and get the Kragen 7" HIDs, but yes thoose should be better although I have heard the Hellas are a little nicer construction than the PIAA's on that lightbar. The HID's are atualy cheaper if you find the 25% off coupon and get them while on sale, but at worst they will only cost a little more but probably provide 5 times the light or more off the same amount of power.

But more importantly, does it smell good?

Might be worse with the air cooler (mine was). If your PC is on the floor, moving it to a desk will help. Or get some dust shields. I just air compressor mine out every 6 mo or so, and use a screwdriver to hold the fan blades so they don't spin.

Got my Lenovo X61S, Impressed so far! Not goog for gaming though, and the screen is only ok, but the quality and build look excelent, esp for the price I paid.

try converting them using the XVid Codec, Google for a how to.

I used to play BF2 but its so old and dated now and the graphics are old and dated as well. But once my new video card heatsinks get here next week hit me up if you want to play a match, it's definately a team based game. I have SoCom on my PSP and only played it for a few minutes, I didn't care for it much, but then again I never really got into it.

The head gaskets are flat and don't seal up as nice as others that have the OEM raised portion. Gaskets are kinda cheap so I'd rather get something decent. Nothign like spending $300 to drive to the dunes and having a head gasket leak...

Send it back to RS and get a new one for free? RS has been in the buisness for a long time, and it seems stators ignition coils need to be very precisely wound, RS has been through it all. Let us know how it works out for you though, I don't know of any other companies making decent stators right now so it would be great to have options, although 100 watts isnt going to cut it for me heh. Maybe Electrix but I have not really heard anything great about them either.

I have not had any because I refuse to run them. Heard some bad stuff is all.

dont get cometic, I would trust tusk over cometic, but your best bet may be OEM.

I think the chrome on my +2 is holding up better than any other chrome on my bike...But I got it years ago, he is probably using someone else now. On the downside it took the chromer like 4 months to do my swingarm, which is why I believe he changed chromers. Local chrome places want about $500 or more to do my A-arms so I settled for what they came with (my A-arms are not quicksand but just an eample) so if you have a hookup I would use that but for me to get something chromed as cheap as Gary is offering I would have to go to Mexico). Lots of harley shops around but they only do show chrome, which is tripple plate then chrome, Kinda excessive for an ATV IMO. Chromers are the worst, every time I get chrome it either sucks or I have to wait months for them to do small things like A-arms, and even then sometimes it still sucks. See if Gary can send it to his old chromer. I'm sure he will try to make it right but it willt ake forever!

My friend has the magnets break loose in his whch cause the crank to wobble then tookout his pickup coil. Unfortunately I need the high output stator to run as much lighting as I am, or I would have serious battery drain at idle.

The problem with the smaller lights is they are probably not going to be as efficient. When you start using bulbs as bright as these you need a larger reflector to be efficient. I havent tested the 4" trailtechs (only sceen them) but one of thes is probably 2+ times as bright as the MR16 versions. (I dont have a way to measure really other than seat of the pants) If these are too big the 50 watt trailtech 4" HID would probably be close (these are 35 watts each) but I'm still not sure if they would be brighter. 50 watt HIDs will need some crazy power if you want to run more than 2 good luck. With the lightbar, if they really bug you that much you can just unplug them durring the day it's only 2 allenheads take about 5 minutes... Supposedly the new trailtechs have Low Voltage Auto re-strike now, but since these cheap kragen lights go down to lower volts to begin with I have not had them shut off on me anyways. Id probably go with 3 35 watt car HID's for maximum efficiency if possible although I still have to figure out what to do for the handlebars, for now I'm going to run 2 trailtech MR16 Floods there since I h ave a huge battery.

Get the extremes if you have a cub. Im running them with a +2 and 4 mil cub, launching is hard but other than that im fine. or you can go with a larger tire with more paddles and smaller rims which will baloon up a bit more and can increase your top speed for drag racing.

skate II's and dunesliders(or clone) are better duning than haulers and mowhawks... Now if you want to shoot the hill then go with the haulers and mowhawks. I know cause I have both and I'm going with 9 paddle extremes + Sliders for the front (getting rid of the mowhawks). I'd stick with v-paddle but my motor is a bit too much for them (Cub). I can still slide the 9's around well enough, its just more work but I do miss the ease of riding with Skate II's compared to haulers. I'm getting rid of the mowhawks because they don't float nearly as well as dunesliders and tend to dig in on sharp turns in the soft stuff which makes the bike eaiser to roll and harder manipulate and slide around. Get CPI pipes if you might do more motor work later, othewise Tooms for FMF Fattys are fine. You will want to get matching silencers. Sandstars will work for rears too, they are just heavier. Also, I would use an OEM gasket. It's only a couple bucks. TORS removal kit just gets rid of the funky carb tops, you would be better off saving your money for new carbs unless they piss you off.

I'd get a Noss head instead....I think the problem was because they don't use O-rings but some kinda gasket? With a Noss Head you will have lots of dome options later should you decide to get a cub or do other more serious motor work.

Truck probably has a reflector in front of the bulb? I noticed this as well on my truck as well and its probably a good thing for all the little civics and priuses in the city, but my foglights are damn bright with HID's in them (no reflectors) These are very bright HID's and you can run them with the light covers which is definately a plus. Actualy the plastic housing isn't bad either cause it is lightweight compared to alternatives.