Justintoxicated

I would do both, Porting typicaly reduces compression so a coolhead with smaller than stock size domes will get your compression back to where it should be. It's a great time to do both.. ALso new carbs to go with your porting! not much power is gained from overboring...I would not do it..

Does this increase spark more than a Dyna Iginition? I'm considering doing both.

It's not that T6's won't work with porting it's just that T5's work better.

Did you install the Clutch Plates in the correct order? I mean they are ballanced you know...

Id just leave the bellray in untill you can get more...should be good for more than a month... I like engine ice for coolant.

I'm interested in one.. But what are you all using for the plug caps? I went to get some new caps and the only ones I know work are from yamaha. $150 for plug caps or whatever they were seems a bit expensive... So this coil will not fit where the stock one is mounted?

Depends if there is water in the cylinders or not... Probably would need a complete rebuild, might as well make it a stroker if you have not already done so.

I get free wireless so I jsut droppe dover $100 to get my x-box setup for X-box live. Wireless Ethernet Bridge and Switch and new controller etc Been paying for it every month but only played it for about a week. I agree halo 2 kinda sucks on x-box live...I'm disapointed... Thanks for the reminder to cancel my subscription, I'll probably forget by the time I get home.

Just regular grease, it does not matter much, I just use some all purpose grease. Idea is just to keep the O-rings in place.

I stopped by the Nology Booth at the sand show and one of the guys there tried to tell me that racing fuel burns 5 times hotter so I need a nology coil to keep up with the increased temp .... LOL Umm Race fuel burns cooler. He then told me I could expect a 2-8! HP gain... I think I might need a new coil as no matter how jetted I am I seem to go through a set of plugs once a trip...The lead fromt he race fuel eventualy cakes on the plugs. I wonder if a new coil would help burn it off?

I saw the new one at the Sand Sports Super Show It looked nicer than last years. I wonder if the new ones are available yet.

Thanks I'll give them a call if you get the number.

Yea I think you guys are right...not adjustable I was thinking incorrectly... Oh well I guess I'm getting them anyways ...Hopefully the Camber will be set correctly!

What appears to make them adjustable is that the heim is not bolted right into the A-arm, the nut on the opposite end should allow the camber to be adjusted while install on the banshee. This makes it so you don't have to take the A-arm off to make the adjustments like the Quicksand. According to most people on here thats no big deal, just need to set it once, but thats what I ment. Similar to the Pro-Comps, but a Way Stronger design in the Heim type joint itself. They do not have Castor Adjustments. Any pics of Billet tie rods that come with them?

I almost rented a room from a guy who is a chromer, but now I can't find his number...Most of them don't have website I guess or don't advertise...

Not sure, one place said stock A-arms for banshee would be $75 shipped, $125 for aftermarket tops (depends on complexity). This is for ... Copper and Nickle base and tripple dipped. I'm thinking about going with Black Chrome uppers and Reg Chrome Lowers. For them just to be different. Another place said $200 tops, but they use a 5 step process and use 5 layers of chrome! A bit excessive for a Banshee I think...but they promise that this stuff will bling! I'll let you know when I find out more.

I have a stock head off my 2000, will sell it for $50 Good shape. Can take pics... I also have a bunch of other stock parts, stator, intake etc...Let me know what you need.

Looking for a good chromer in the LB/LA area that than copper base and double/tripple dip some A-arms for $150 and under. Anyone?

You guys are funny, Stan, I saw your grab bar again at SSSS this weekend. I had some ideas, but I'm still very buisy still.... being buisy sucks... I like the grab bar but might miss carrying my cooler I did not etch my own circuit, I don't have that much time lol...And the pats I used were larger, so it was not really necessary.

Gary makes great stuff, he uses High quality Aircraft grade Heimes not cheapo ones that ar emore prone to breaking. I like my QS Swingarm as well the chrome job on it looks great. Not sure if it is tripple dipped or what but the finish is perfect. This time around I think I will be going with custom creations A-arms, they have an amazing Heime-Joint Style Ends. I'm not sure what they are called but it look WAY Stronger than a heim join does and felt VERY solid when I had them in my hands at the sand show. What I liked here is that they appear to also be great quality compared to pro-comps and come with a joint superior to Heimes they also come with Tierods with a billet housing that look trick. I also like the fact that they were adjustable while installed on the bike and don't need to be removed to make the adjustments. I want to thank Gary for all his help though and would definately recomend his products to people on the HQ. He is a buisy guy though but welds don't get better than his, and he dosent use some $5 or $10 Joints on his parts either.

I woulden't run castor927 32-1, unless you want alot of carbon build up on your cylinders and pipes.

I mix my first few tanks with extra oil like 24 to 1 for break in (with yamalube) ....and keep it under 3/4th throttle for a couple tanks. Then I switch it to a full synthetic oil after that You want those tranny gears to break in right, thats most important.... Topend can always be re-done but splitting he case can be a bitch.

try 40 to 1 with castor, don't go 50 to 1. What problems are you having?