Justintoxicated

Ok worthless post. I was not sure what to get so I just went with Elka Elites... setup for 200 lbs, Expert rider, Dune Valving.

hmm thats what I origionaly thought also, is it jsut hte new frames 05 and up that are powder coated maybe? Case I was told they are PC these days...I think my grey frame is just paint.

Well my subframe is cracked in a couple placese, so I'm looking into getting a stock 2005 Banshee frame...I sure did like the red frames on the 05's... Is the stock Powder Coat pretty good? Or does it suck compared to aftermarket? I'd be getting it in this color anyways.

I had a moto 4 80...No Suspension...Those thigns last forever I still see them runnign around... Kinda suck though...

I'd PM Gary and ask him, I think they are Chromoly, hell they must be, he pays alot more than other companies do with the cost that he offers the arms themselves at a lower cost. His arms are a better deal. Cheap for A-arms is under 600 chromed. I won't run Janssen stuff, thats just me though, not when I could get some from QS..I pound my bike pretty hard though... Many people have had good luck with Janssens, other have gotten hurt. They probably sell alot more than Gary does...But I have not heard of one of his heims failign yet..

NP, how old is your ricky stator? MIne is a few years old, I'm having mine replaced under warranty.

to Disable it you simply need a parking brake block off and unplug the box etc.. You better disable it (by not plugging it in) since you don't actualy have the TORS uniton the carbs lol. I have a parking brake block off I'll sell real cheap (Brand New) . Let me know.

Got a Quote Today.. Aerotech said they would chrome them for $240!!!! f u c k that...

ok I been looking at all kinds of shocks and just figured I'd post to get some more feedback. I need alot of adjustment.... So I'm looking at Elka Elites or Works Pro G Series 4. I think works has stepped up their quality a bit this time around... I believe the elites have better springs and the Works have better technology.. http://www.worksperformance.com/html/atv.html I found this quote on another forum...And the Pro Series is a step above the widows.. "just for some info for people that might not know. works pro series are made with the same shafts and valving as elka's. the only thing that i could think would be different is the springs and the sticker on the rezzie. works is probably the smartest shock company out there. i bet they have made more money off the steelers than any other shock company has off one shock. my assumption on the black widows would have to be that they are going to be one hell of a shock to beat. but i might be wrong. " Anyne running these they are about the same price as the elkas... I believe both are Dual Rate shocks for the banshee.

Wait till you get some real pipes!

Called today and they told me to call back monday. If nothign else I'll go with the copper based tripple dip for $100

Well, they said they would not refund it but exchange it. The notch in my shift shaft goes all the way through.. But when the Shofter is level with the foot pegs the bolt hole and notch do not line up....So the bolt clips the edge of the shift shafts notch...I could probably grind my shift shaft with a dremel but I'm not sure that is a wise thing to do...I don't want to end up splittnig my cases as result of the new shifter... I'll see fi I can find a way to post a pic without the webserver. I'm a bit pissed at RIS. they told me at teh sandshow it retailed for $75 and they were selling it to me for $50 ($60 after tax)...I went to their website and see one for $65...What a rip...Mine looks WAY better than the one listed on their website though...Nice thing it is it milled from a solid piece of billet unlike most other shifters...Unfortunately I can't use the POS.

well I found out RIS is right by my house, so if I ever get off work on time (not likely) I will swing it by and exchange it. But it looks like it will be a couple weeks... Anyone else with his shifter have to grind down their shift shaft? I have a feeling that the replacement is not going to fit either.

I would get the QS if it was me...I hear Janssens use cheap heim joints...Not something I would wannat trust my life on.. In fact for MX racing I would probably stick to balljoints, I would not want a Heim coming loose due to wear. but at least with QS Heimes you can be sure they are top notch, not like the $5 ones eyeball engineering and other companies use. What is the billet thing your talking about? I'm getting some custom creations A-arms with Billet Tie Rod covers...Sweet Looking arms and should be very strong too...But Not adjustable fo you MX guys...

I'd post pics but my linux box crashed...so I need to save my website and re-format it (pain in the ....) The bike in my avitar is light by 4 LED's 2 Red and 2 blue.

Return to who? I got it at the sand show from RIS...

don't get more than +2 for trails, I would only do +2 if your going to widen the rear axle and front A-arms... Otherwise keep it stock for trails... Lean forward to keep the rear end down. Now if you want drag and dune a +4 is a good length if you don't like to wheelie or have over 70 HP. Drag only I would go +6 if you have the ponies...The longer you extend it the less weight you have under the rear tires too. I love my +2, just right length for Playing Jumping and a little dragging. I woudl not be afraid to take my bike on trails either...but might as well leave it stock for a trail shee IMO.

I just got a new RIS shifter. It looked so shiny and perfect I did not even want to install it. It appeared to be a VERY high quality Billet part.. WRONG. The f**king thing won't even install so the shifter is level. Unlike the stock design, the Allen head bolt actualy goes through the notch in the shift shaft... when installed level with the pegs the bolt does not clear the notch, I have to move it up a spline and then the shifter is at a 30 deg angle with the foot pegs...You would have to stand up to shift! When downshifting it clicks down to the point that SHOULD be the correct installed position....But it cannot be installed lower because the bolt does not clear the notch in the shift shaft (the shift shaft prevents you from threading the bolt in... SO the shifter cannot be adjusted down to the correct position (level) without griding out the noth in the shift shaft to a larger diameter. for $80 you would think it would fit.!!!!!!!!!!!! I give this product 2 thumsb down....Putting the stock shifter back on tomarrow...

Oh man I feel like such a rush right now too, glamis is such a short time away....! I have ALOT to do....

I tried Golden Spectro and Bel Ray. The Golden Spectro is much thinner eve though it claims the same weight. I even mixed them together once heh. I must say I will only be buying Bel Ray from now on. The golden spectro would cause my clutch to start slipping if I left it in more than 2 trips.

Next time Make sure your chain is in good shape, and your sprocket. It came off because 1) It was worn out or 2) You did not have the proper tension. Also you might invest in a $30 Billet case saver the next time around...If you don't check your chain often. Keep your bike maintained better next time and you won't have to deal with replacing the cases. This happens all the time to people using worn out chains... I recomend getting a DID X-ring... If it was me I would definately replace the case and not mess with welding it... Not sure on the top and bottom issue...

I juSt got a thumb throttle extender from Mod Quad, WAY easier to hold in now...Never had much of an issue before except for that first trip of the season... Took about 10 minutes to install the only difficult was poping out the old busing to replace with the ball bearing... Looks better too. well worth the $30 I prefer a thumb over a twist on a quad cause when you turn the bars to the left you naturally bend your wrist and increase throttle if you have a twist, with a thumb I think it gives you beter controll. On an Bike I would not use a thumb throttle though.