Justintoxicated

Do you still have the parking brake? Thats usualy the culprit when it comes to TORS. Unplugging the black box on teh left hand side up front disables the TORS so give that a shot too. But get a new cluch lever and ditch the parking brake!

Not sure about a cap since HIDs tend to draw alot of current at start up, the Battery shoudl smoth out the ac to dc conversion much better than a cap alone. But there more. The main idea is to stop the lights from going out when at low RPM (Cap would have trouble here since they are only made to store power for a slip second.) Plus HID's are not made to be turned on and off, so I think it would be ruff on the lights. I used the large battery because it had better capacity, so I can flip on my underlighting, or tail light while sitting at the top of olds or whatever dune and not get run over by dune buggies... So I wanted it to be able to turn on with the bike off... 5 switches. 1 switch will controll each HID 1 for turning my underlighting on and off. Factory switch will only controll the taillight. I may also add another switch later to turn my whip light on and off if I ever get around to wiring one up. Yes teh stator charges the Battery all day long.

pics back up

Inspect the frame for cracks and welds also, especialy the subframe...(the part the pipes silencers connect to) make sure it is not bent..

wow Hard Anno should nto fade like that.....HA Type III anyways, maybe they are just normal anodized? I jsut got a set so if that happens to me I' sending them to get HA Type III...

good thing they are not extremes lol, thats alot of traction under your ass.

C-12 108 octain is pretty good. I run F&L 111 though...It's cheaper too! I ran some 118 Nascare fule before...That was good shit, $8 a gallon though lol Just tried it for the hell of it...Not much difference...

If It was me I would weld it up (with gusset) and start looking at aftermarket +2 inch, cause your going to need shocks to go with +2 A-arms...

It looks like alot but not too bad actually, plus you can't see hardly anything with the rear plastics on. Figure 5 power wires (one to each switch) Power wire from Battery to switch, Power wire from switch to Distro block. And a Power wire fromt eh distro block to stock harness. One thing I liked about the mod is the stator ground and case ground are both connected to the Distro block, so This should help to ensure the engine case is grounded to the frame. Looks much cleaner IRL, cause few wires are not plugged in yet...But yea more pics coming. As I find time to work on it. The MR16 HID's have not been released yet but come out this month...So for the first few dune trips I will be running the hallogens off the battery. On the bright side, no more imming lights when poping over the top of a dune at night

Ok so I decided that 2 MR16 IR 55 watt bulbs (Equivalant to 80 Watt standard MR16) and 2 35 watt MR 16 IR 30 watt bulbs (equivilant to 50 watt standard MR16) just was not going to be enough light. Plus I might want to run a Blender, Cigarette Lighter, Air Compressor etc from the banshee lol.... so here some pics on my conversion in progress... I have all the hard parts done, all the stock wires are hook up and functional for DC, Stator should charge the battery while riding... Sorry this pic is still not available Blurry picture of battery box, (is actualy a deep red with sparkle). Thanks to You Know Who You Are on this forum. Nakid Banshee with wire harness finished. (Harness not Zip-tied into place in this pic) Battery box, distro block and lighted switch Switches Wired for illumination Switches mounted into radiator grill Any Questions? Things to do. - Add plug for wires to ensure easy radiator cover removal - Figure out how to clean up wire near radiator cover (Plan in grogress) - Tidy up factory harness (the wires in middle of engine in the pics.) Everything wired (so far except for underlighting LED and Taillight LED regulation box)

Point is you can bore the cylinders and change the head to compensate for any compression lost with the boring... It's not that it does not make the bike have more HP it's that it is WAY better to increase the HP of your bike in other ways... A new sleve and Porting job gets expensive to maintain....Better off going with aftermarket cylinders... It was all about displacement and weight of the bike then we would be seeing raptors wining drag racing...

Must be some crappy porting!

Too much for you! LOL With those plastics and a chromed frame you could be the King of Bling lol

Wallrat is your shee even poprted yet?

Not going to pretend I know anything but I don't think this is compleatly right, people changes the domes which increases the compression which changes teh point at which fuel combusts. If you go to too high of a compression I believe it can actualy slow you down.

Gary build things for people himself he is not a huge company like yours. I don't think it's fair to compare a huge company such as yourself to his. He puts his own quality work into his arms not just some guy at the shop. Gary isn't trying to make a living off his company he does this for people because he can, and offers his products at a very reasonable price.

on my ported 350 I also run 33 pwk, I don't think they make 30 mm pwk so that kinda sucks...I really wanna run air strikers but not untill I get a stroker... However I would definately go with whatever your builder says.

DUDE the Heims I showed look NOTHING like yours. Not to mention I have the same Heims for upper and lower arms. The ones I pictured appeared much thicker beefier and also important are the way they attach to the arms of the bike. And there are also noticable differences with Gary's Quicksand Racing. He uses a 1 piece design. Nuff said... And Going back to the origional argument, as has been stated many times by RNBRAD You need to constantly inspect Heims for wear. If you stick with your balljoints they are compleatly sealed. I have yet to see or even imagine a sealed Heim Joint. Cheaper Heims wear faster I would hate to have to replace mine every 6 months or so like some people have experienced (I"m not saying Fireball specificaly either). If yours are such high quality then I can't even imagine the quality of the Quicksand Heim.

Yea I have to wonder if they are making another part out of the wasted aluminum...I bet they are! Since it's one piece the origional block has to be pretty big. Only thing concerning me is the splines but I think it will be ok. My friends RIS has a coper insert in teh shifter that goes betweent eh billet and splines on the bike, he says it is mroe adjustable this way also, and I'm sure there are more aluminum splines for the copper insert piece since the hole would be larger. Sure is shiny though I can see my reflection. It is also lightened unerneath, not that it really matters since I jsut added a heavy ass battery anyways lol

sure is pretty now that it is installed

pics of me cleaning her up...Lots of work to do this month. Here is the metalcast on cylinders, and metalcast undercoat with metalcast red on top for covers. Looks better with mroe sunlight (sun was setting) (THis is the metalcast with the ground coat also, compleatly different effect but boy is this a nice dark red and it sure sparkles anyways.)

Out of frames are sick, Especialy when you roll your bike, or get too much air and wack your leg on them when your landing.