Justintoxicated

I have used both Belray Gear saver and Golden Spectro and I have to say the Belray is much thicker but also works MUCH better and last alsot longer (clutch starts slipping with gear saver after a few trips. I believe I will stick with belray and pay the extra $1 a quart...much cheaper than clutches... I would not run ANYTHING with fristion modifiers...and what works best in cars may not work the best in your banshee...also some castrol synthetic is much better than others car wise, the stuff made in germany is top notch , i believe it beat out mobile 1, while the stuff made in elesewhere is garbage!

are you sure you were overheating? Or were you just dripping coolant on the pipes? If it was jsut coolant on the pipes then stop filling up your resevoir or relocate it. Are you sure you installed the clutch correctly? Get a billet shifter to reduce slop, or deal with the stock one.

MWallrat, you really should consider camping in the washes near the dunes, There will be alot less traffic there! I think we should hit up the washes where we were the other time. It's way better and your not in the middle of riding area. I'll be there with a blue BansheeHQ sticker on the shee. And you can't miss me lighting up the dunes at night (blue lighting underneath).

I don't buy it...I mean yea 450 can be beefed up but I don't buy that they are beating ported banshees running the same fuel. Meaning alcahol vs alcahol gas vs gas... Must have been some slow banshees there.. Not saying it's not possible or that it did not happen, I mean sure a 30,000 450 will beat a 10,000 banshee...But I have yet to get smoked by a 450 (other than when I was running with fowled plugs)

Cubs look very similar to the stock cylinders...especialy if you paint them black...

Yea 9 paddle will slow you down some jsut as this guy says, you can still stay in the power but I garantee that it will run faster with 8's if that is the case. Go ahead and overpaddle your bike if you want to everyone else is doing it... my 8 paddle extremes are a good match for my bike and I'll bet anything I'm making more power than you (not bragging but porting carbs etc makes a pretty good difference). I would DEFINATLY get 8 paddle extremes over 9 paddle non extremes. the 9 paddle non-extremes will flex more making them similar to an 8 paddle extreme, maybe a bit more traction with the 9's...the extremes will also last longer and will be ok untill you do more mods... If you had a 4 mil ported stroker I would say go with 9 paddle extremes... But hey don't take my word, call a tire expert and have them tell you the same thing.

35mm Air Strykers!

Basicay I have narrowed your decision down to Skate II's great tires for piped banshee. A little heavier are Sand Star II's a little more traction but also heavier tire (never tried them myself) or 8 paddle Extreme Haulers. (pusing it with extremes probably better off with normal haulers although they won't hold up as long) Pick one of the above... I would not recomend running a 9 paddle tires with your mods, it will only slow you down.

OMG what are you going to run them on a +10mm cub stroker? 12 paddle extreme are quite agressive, even on a 22 inch tire! If you have a stock stroke engine you would be WAY better off with an 8 or 9 paddle extreme (depending on tire size) Banshees need some wheelspin you don't wanna over paddle your motor.

Here is the mount / Adapter I made for my new water Resistant Circuit... Here si teh box without the mount this stupid mount cost me $15 to make cause I had to buy a huge 3 foot piece of aluminum....OH well I guess, this project is nickle and diming me though! $25 for a water proof plug for the harness too! and the little flag connectors I will be getting are about $15-$20 also...or I can just buy like 12 for $12 at radioshack...figure I may as well curchase 100 for a little more $$ Action shot (looks much better IRL) Blue LED's only Stock Headlights (yea I wired them up also for the hell of it) and Red Taillight added. Some other stuff I painted Off Topic New Axel and Painted Hubs. It's hard to really capture what the paint really looks like, It's a MUCH deeper red and looks MUCH smoother than in the pic, sparkles a little in the sun, and looks metalic in color (like annodized) (dunno why I even bother posting this pic lol it loosk ALOT different)

sounds almost identical to my jetting mine idles forever...

Well I found a water proof 6 circuit plug for the Switches and also found the Flag Terminals aka right angle terminals. Should have these parts by tuesday. I made a mount for the LED circuit from a nice piece of aluminum and it came out great for my limited tools... I also almost have finished fixing my webserver so Pics coming soon!

those LED's are going to be shit for brightness...They are not even high end LED's hell the LED's I use for underlighting are brighter... Not all bulbs/reflectors are created equal. It's not all about how many WATTS your lights are I would suggest contacting Osram/Sylvania and getting "MR16 IR" bulbs their 35 watt Halogens are as bright as typical 50 watt MR 16's (30% brighter than typical MR 16's) which are probably twice as bright as the stock headlights (especialy on older banshees) to run HID's you really have to have a battery and do teh DC conversion. See my post in repairs and mods for more info. 30 watt HID should be brighter than 100 watt halogens. I'm Currently running 2 50or55 watt Osram IR bulbs...they are VERY bright About the same as when I had 70 or 75 watt MR16's (which tend to overheat) I will compare them to the Trailtech MR16 HID's when I get ahold of them. the Osram bulbs im running are noticably brighter than the MR11 HID setup... SDD has a post on this forum too and I have sceen his Retro fitted HID's into his HELLA housing. Those things are BLINDING, the reflectors worked OK IMO, it's always best to have a reflector made around the light source, but I have to say his lights throw VERY far and look trick as freak.... Monkey boy, what stator do you have if it is electrics your probably running more than it can actually handle...I hear ricky's makes the same power and is on 1 channel where as the electrics is splitting the power into multiple cannels and does not put out it's rated wattage (or it's rated at more rpm's than banshees are typicaly ridden at). Just like car sterio amps a 100 watt amp can often outpower a 200 watt amp if the input voltage is rated higher.... Isn't there 1 60 watt channel and 2 100 watt channels on the electrix? 2 75's is the limit I would run without the extra 35's, but I would actualy recomend running the Osram bulbs instead to help keeping the lights bright at low RPM's plus I find my 55 MR16 IR's brighter than my 70's were anyways. I don't see the point in runnign 2 tail lights in series...why not just run 1? Your not gaining anything here. Even if each light only recieves 6V instead of 12 your probably using the same power or helle ven more power since resistance goes up as bulb gets hotter.

I have Tags and they tweeked slightly (when I say slightly I mean you could argue it all day that they are still straight with an untrained eye) from when my dad rolled my shee in the sand. They are Raptor bend though, almost exactly the same as the banshee bend but I did not have problems with my thumb throttle extender sticking out to much unlike the banshee bend for whatever reason. The annodizing is also coming off where I ziptied the throttle, brake cables etc to the bars. if you want real good bars look into the ones made by F.A.S.S.T I think they are like $300 though! http://www.fasstco.com/html/flexx_bars.html

Interesting, your FMF's turning blue, since FMF does not chrome plate pipes...At least mine were nickle plated..

I clean mine after every trip to the dunes.

I wanted to get mine chromed but they were not ready for the chrome so I jsut have mine spray painted still...I would get them PCed if I could find a place to do it cheap...I should have sent them with my A-arms to the chrome shop

I would not run that shit if it was me...It looks like he freaked up the boysen ports and resleved the cylinders? is there any material between the boysen port and the seleve wall? Hell is there even any sleve left where he bored the hole? from the pics it looks like the cylinders are not even runable cause it looks like the piston ring will catch where he freaked up the boysen port.

Sounds like the cylinders he is buying have 2 boyesen ports and 2 boost ports per cylinder. Do Boost ports really do anything?

I run a 14-40 with my 12 port. 8 paddle extrmes.. I could gear high but I actualy utilize my 6th gear... Hill shoot in 4th and can almost but not quite hit 5th (I also have a little problem with spark but I know I am within a tooth of being set up correct for what I do... I wanted to do 15-43 but RMATV does not sell a rear 43 tooth sprocket + I owuld need to lengthen my chain. I think a 14-39 would be perfect for me. I would not plan on running a 16 tooth up front for drag racing...15 38 sounds possible to me if you were runing the same tires and expect your bike to have about 12 HP more than mine. Personaly I would do a 15 41 to start and go from there cause after you cut your chain you will have to add a second master link to re-size it. plus rear sprockets are cheap so long as you don't use a weird size like 38 tooth

I want to get a pingle so I can run 2 filters without restricing flow.

sounds right, the first one describes the old style ricky stator (the one I had replaced) The second I'm not sure if that is for the new stators of not, but I don't think it is, because he said I would actualy have to mess with the ends of the coil in order to float the ground on it. But Like I said offered to do it to the new stator for me so I took him up on the offer... Mine came like this. (not sure exactly how his newest stators generaly come setup) 2 yellow wires, both attached to opposite ends of the lighting coil. and a black wire connected to the the screw in the stator. (ground) so the 2 yellows run to the the rectifier's (by trailtech) 2 yellow wiers and I ran the black one to the ground on the distro block. I'm pretty sure this is correct. I don't think the black wire is really needed for me (I believe he added it so I could plug it into the voltage rectifiers ground) but I figured I would ground this extra wire into the block so that the motor would be grounded to the frame (block also grounds to the frame) and ran a seperate ground wire from the block to the stock harness and to the rectifiers ground.. I'm also going to connect up the stock harnesses ground so it will be grounded in 3 places (don't care too much about ground loops on the banshee frame. No Flat pannels for the banshee, b ut maybe one of those electric coolers to go on back? Still need to verify the crarging system is working correctly...Need to finish up and get the bike back together the rest of the way.

if you have to replace teh crank you might as well make it a stroker...

Well on the old ricky stator you just isolate the black wire after unscrewing it fromt eh stator plate... Ont he new one the process is more complicated and since the old style cases bad spark on some banshees (like mine) Ricky Stator replaced it and said he would do the floating for me. The new one has a 10 ohm charging coil instead of whatever my old one had 38 ohms or so...I can't explain how to do it cause I did not need to do this part... It varies from stator to stator. You float the ground on his new stator like wyou would on the stock one.