Justintoxicated

I like it but how does it seal up around the stator / flywheel to keep it from rusting?

Aren't most high powered LED's gel filled? Come to think of it By definition PWM is means the light turns on and off many times a second, but usualy at a higher rate than your eyses can't pickup. Now to find a way to mount something like that on handlebars would be sweet! While those lights probably won't beat out a 30 watt SMR16 HID, I think they would certainly look cooler on the handlebars (the 10 watt version).

Toss a ported Cub on your 4 mill, end of the Zilla... or if you want to piss him off, find someone to build you a fast Sabertooth and beat him with a 250R brandon thats a clean lookin zilla.

I called Shens not BS Can you find out what the internals are? Watt for watt even the osram (german) led's are not as efficient as HID. Of course you can build a higher power light that will be brighter. I have not played with the 10 watt LED's yet though.... I would believe they are more efficient than those trailtech 11 watt HID's (those are not efficient for HID's), however if you compared 3 of those to a 30 watt HID with appropriate reflector you would get a more fair comparison... (like the larger lights on his wbesite) I was actualy on your friends site last night because I'm thinking of going with his lightbar for my handlebars but I'd like to know if the LED's are at least CRee XRE or Osrams. .75 amps does not mean anything as far as efficiency, you need to measure efficiency as power. PWM transformers are the budget way to regulate lights. I'm not knocking it but they are generaly cheaper to build than high 90% + efficient constant current circuits. On larger lights the cost only goes up exponentialy and probably woudl not be justifiable to make decent profits on. PWM is fine because it takes advantage of the LED's ability to turn on and off extreamly quickly and boosts the "efficiency" of the circuit, although the efficiency of the light output is slightly reduced. If done right PWM is fine but as you slow the pulse you start to get that flickering effect. I'm sure this likely pulse fast enough that you can't tell... I wasnt comparing the warm up of the HID. At start up HID's are not as efficient for sure, but thats only for a few seconds... I'm still looking forward to the day when a single small LED will be more efficient than a HID, but it has been proven over and over that they are not there yet, even with new OSRAM (german) Golden Dragons. If you can verify that these are indeed the OSRAM LED's then I may be interested in purchasing a 8" lightbar from him. many of the lightbars out there use generic knock off LEDs. If HIDs are more efficient then why would I want LED? Well if my battery dies then an HID is not going to stay on, it will keep going out every time I let off the gas because they have a cut off voltage unlike LEDs which will just dim out, (so rev up the bike and they will get brighter stop and they will dim with a dead battery: MUCH BETTER THAN HID) also a similar power and efficient HID will likely be larger and a pain to have mounted on my Bars (the MR16 Trailtech HID's are not the most efficient either which is what I have now for handlebar lights)... The flood beam from the LED would help blend all the artifacts from my cheap kragen HIDs which would be my primary driving lights. Fair Enough, I have had my Share of RMAs as well, but theres not alot of other options either. Maybe the company has gone downhill since the ower passed away, I have not purchased anything from them since then. However the ricky stator is probably the easiest one to do the DC conversion on. I hope you were not trying to pull 200 watts from his 200 watt stator... My friend and I have both had some problems with the ricky stator, so I just bring a spare when I go riding, but I havent had any issues for some time now and when I did it was because of the hardware (except for his older version which problems with the ignition coil). All the stator is, is a coil of wire and a pickup coil, so theres not TOO much that can go wrong with them (they could however be improperly wound etc)... Someone should make a nice solid billet stator and not use China Hardware / Manufacturering to put it together

as bright as 35 watt HID's? I call Shens, what LED's are those using inside? What kinda of circuit and how efficient is it? depending on internals I might be interested!

both stators are POS, go for the ricky stator though. The Ricky Stator's issues can be solved by upgrading the hardware it comes with. If it has philips head screws replace them with some higher grade allenhead bolts (mounting the stator to the plate). The stator itself should be fine if you get his newest version, and it is very easy to float the ground. Unfortunately a battery has nothing to do with how large of a stator you need. Every time you are not on the throttle you will be draining the battery... having a higher output stator and flywheel DOES help and I would certainly get both if your changing to HIDs. The stock stator and flywheel will only power about 70-75 watts of lighting properly, beyond that you will run into issues. If your converting to DC then subtract even more... nice job on the luxeon conversion, however that would jsut not be enough light for me. However if you find a way to do a conversion using Cree XRE's let me know! I have been running luxeons for several years, they are ok, but not as efficient as HID's so I don't use them for headlights. I know how bright a Quad Luxeon flashlight is as I made one that runs off Lithium batteries, they are quite suprising with XRE's aproaching HID efficiency and not having the warm up / constant current issues they would be alot less problematic on a banshee or other small vehicle with limited power source.

I used to run F&L 111 leaded Race gas in my banshee, the plugs would foul up with lead all the time and would need to be replaced often. Soco now sells unleaded VP110, I no longer have lead caking on my plugs. It used to look like a greenish substance, but thats probably because I was mixing with MC1 back then. I have never tried AV gas. I don't know why some bikes have the issue and others do not. My Friend ran the same fuel and never had any problems and even ran the same plugs.

http://herrjugsracing.com/Product_List.html Slighshot clutch + Wiseco Basket if you have a notched basket.

No its not worth the $100 price difference, just make sure the screws are tight on the V-force 2s and DONT threadlock them.

You guys just stay at camp and drink all weekend? Looks like I missed everyone this year... Camped in the Washes since my friend had a trailer and no 4WD. I was looking for the HQ group but never saw you guys at the hill, you were probably all at the drags or maybe I just missed everyone. No Matter ran into some electrical issues with my HID's and spent all of saterday fixing the new 250R to make her dune worthy... Nah I tried it before the 4 mill ported cub is a very thirstay motor. the 250R would have made it though! I just ended up not going on any long rides. Oh and yea KD cycles is the place they have a store at the vendors too with almost everything. They are closer to Gordons than glamis though, and you have to watch the time because of the 1 hour time difference in AZ. Missed them one trip by 30 min and ended up having to drive back home.

I will of course be out there as usualy, I think we may be camping in the washes though. I know the banshee won't make it from the washes to the HQ camp and back.... I'm not sure if my TRX250R will or not. Hopefully I'll see youa ll out there as usual, I know I havent been on the forum much lately. Good thing there is a flat drag over by gecko road, not just the drag at Olds. And sometimes night drags over near the stor (really flat drags)

The best thing you can do is buy a thumb throttle extender, or a new thumb throttle that has one built in (even better and even more expensive). I also run cut springs but if you cut too much you increase the chances of the slide sticking in the throttle so I would go with an extender first, unless your cheap

sounds like you welded the ball to the clutch rod. Never hold the clutch in while coating down a large hill. This can also happen from holding the clutch in while reving the bike up to get a good launch. Yes it is a common problem, get a pandcake bearing when you replace the rod and ball.

Depending on the version you have the install process may vary. On the version I have I remember having to put the clutch pressure plate together, then adjust the pancake, then take the clutch pressure plate (attached by the screws with springs over them) back off so I could grab onto it from the backside to sinch it tight and lock the adjustment in place. The first time I was not able to tighten it enough and it spun off into my clutch case and trashed my lockup clutch (actualy it still would probablty work fine but I decided to replaceit anyways. $100 mistake (luckily that is all)...

TRX250R of course :biggrin:

I have an extra parking brake blockoff for my banshee, and I'm wondering if it will fit on my new 250R? I would check but I'm a couple hundred miles away from both bikes and placing an order online.

id go with a wiseco because they are not just billet but Grain Forged, come with everything you need and is a real quality basket for only a little more.

I would certainly keep the CPI's....Shearers make a little more power on top, but the CPI's make the cube nice and rideable and still maintain some lowend and midrange power. Shearers will be all topend and harder to enjoy riding (unless your going to drag only). 30 hours is fine since cub cylinders are plated. You could change the rings but thats it, if it runs fine and has compression I doubt I would mess with it at all.

What good is that? Just have your buddy put the plug wire close to his tounge and watch his face when you kick it over.

Althoguh I had problems I would still recommend them they seem to backup their products. I have not had any problems with the latest one other than the crappy adjustment (same as most other shifters though). I still wish they would make one with the brass splines insert.

I'm on my 3rd RIS shifter the first 2 cracked. Howevere I think they were milled a little off and the 3rd one seems to be holding up fine (Thicker walls in the lightened section). However NONE of my shifters look anything like yours WTF. All three of mine were 2 piece shifters. Other than cracking my only complaint is that it does not have brass splines like my buddies. He can put the shifter in way more positions with the brass spline insert. My RIS seems to either be too tall or too low for me to get good consistant shifts with boots on. I have it set in the too high position for now and dremeled down the stator cover where it rubs it.

They are pretty good with replacements. Problem is not1 elses makes a HIGH output stator that can run all my lights... IMy old one had spark problem that I noticed after porting, it ran ok with stock cylinders though, replacement had the cheap china bolts that stripped out, No problems since I got the newest one but time will tell. I heave head abotu the plate istelf stripping out or grade 8 bolts stripping out (Grade 9 Allenheads should be overkill compared to what the stock stator has).

Had it since they first came out, what like 3 or 4 years ago or something. Maybe its been longer. Had my stator replaced a couple times so now I carrey a spare (I have 2 HO RS stators). Have not had any problems since I upgraded the bolts, however I'm thinking about finding some longer grade 8 bolts and using a lock nut on the backside as well. THe new bolts should not strip like the china ones, but they don't thread in quite as far either. That said my friend bought his Flywheel around the same time, and first trip this season the magnets broke inside and are sliding around in it which he thinks could have warped his crank. Still going to run mine though for now. We don't know for sure how the magnets broke, perhaps it was caused by an out of true crank....Or perhpas neither is the cause/effect of the other.

Had it since they first came out, what like 3 or 4 years ago or something. Maybe its been longer. Had my stator replaced a couple times so now I carrey a spare (I have 2 HO RS stators). Have not had any problems since I upgraded the bolts, however I'm thinking about finding some longer grade 8 bolts and using a lock nut on the backside as well. THe new bolts should not strip like the china ones, but they don't thread in quite as far either. That said my friend bought his Flywheel around the same time, and first trip this season the magnets broke inside and are sliding around in it which he thinks could have warped his crank. Still going to run mine though for now. We don't know for sure how the magnets broke, perhaps it was caused by an out of true crank....Or perhpas neither is the cause/effect of the other.

Had it since they first came out, what like 3 or 4 years ago or something. Maybe its been longer. Had my stator replaced a couple times so now I carrey a spare (I have 2 HO RS stators). Have not had any problems since I upgraded the bolts, however I'm thinking about finding some longer grade 8 bolts and using a lock nut on the backside as well. THe new bolts should not strip like the china ones, but they don't thread in quite as far either. That said my friend bought his Flywheel around the same time, and first trip this season the magnets broke inside and are sliding around in it which he thinks could have warped his crank. Still going to run mine though for now. We don't know for sure how the magnets broke, perhaps it was caused by an out of true crank....Or perhpas neither is the cause/effect of the other.