Justintoxicated

I thoguth you were supposed to bore and hone your cylinders after porting ?

Nope thanks for the input I find it interesting, It seems the big bore out of frames work better witht he 4 mil cub than the regular bore, but thats not the same as inframe pipes at all...

Neither will make much of a HP difference, and definately not the head... The head will make your engine run cooler and give you more lowend if you get the correct domes. I also like the O-ring concept better than the gasket style. The Reeds will make your throttle response more snappy and might add a HP or 2. Personaly I would do the head first, and do the reeds when you change your carbs to something better down the road.

How much for all the parts to make my 2000 have a rear brake light?

I heard that this is a pretty common problem with shearer pipes.

did you get your fatty's chromed yourself? Otherwise I believe they are only nickle plated NOT chrome..

what difference do you notice? I may be going with a 7 mil cub if I have the extra cash when the time comes. Are you running 35mm Air Strykers? Anything else the bikes have that are different? I actualy think the CPI's look better than the Shearers

Thats bad ass I havent driven my Savage in over a year, right after I dumpe dlike $300 into it I put it on the shelf and have not driven it since...Where can I get tha ATV body? Where does the motor pop out?

Lonestar makes good stuff, but you can't go wrong with Quicksand or Cusom Creations for A-arms and Swingarms. They are not mass produced crap... I a myself running a quicksand rear swingarm and the welds and build look pretty damn solid to me, I wet to the Cusom creations A-arms because I liked they way they were construted and there were not as many adjustments. but both companys seem to make some solid stuff. Also check out alba pro-comp a-arms, I think they are a bit overpriced but if you can get a deal on them by telling them your a members of American Sand Association I think. They also have a compleat front suspension kit that including the shocks and a-arms.

Yea right that will just spin the entire sleeve around in the bushing. We could not even press mine out with a big ass vice, even tried smacking them with a hammer they would not budge...

My stock crank was starting to seperate from just pipes after onyl a few seasons. I had it welded and trued before it was out of spec...

Banshees don't have a retifier, just a regulator. Have you traced the yellow and black wire from the stator and checked the connection to the regulator?

Well I talked to my friend and he says the Big Bores are the way to go with the 4 mil cub, it may not be a 440 but it would sure flow alot more than a 440 with stock cylinders.

fuck it dude go buy yamaha factory racing clutch lever for like $28 and a parking brake block off plate. And be done with that shit. The stock clutch lever is a POS anyways!

x2

I was there but the underlights are now hooked to battery so no flicker at all. SOunds like you were pretty close but it was damn crowded!

I use K&N cleaner on the outerwears and rub them with my fingers untill they are unplugged. Sometimes I have to use my fingernail to really remvoe lodged crap. I had to cut m A-arms bolts out also....Searching for an aftermarket graded one, not have not come up with anything yet... I ordered some factory ones and just used those. if I was you I would order a stock yamaha bolt.

a good start would be checkin the head to make sure it is flat and flush. get some 600 grit sand paper and place it on a nice thick piece of flat glass and slowly move the head around, check the head and make sure there is some scuffing across the entire bottem and that it is compleatly level. That woud suck if it was the rubber plug in the cylinders. Don't use 2 gaskets! Hopefully your case is not full of collant. Might as well pull the cylinders all the way off and inspect everything.

I have tried using rubber bands to keep the pods from hitting my Fatties, I put one aroudn both pods and by the end of the trip they had worn holes in both outerwears from rubbing together. I know the shearers make mroe on top and I know they pull hard when you gt on the pipe as I rode my friends banshee with them and he has the smae porting. What I did not like was the loss of mid and lowend which I wwould miss. The quality of the CPI pipes themselves is more impressive to me, and I can probably get a better deal on them also. So with a 4 mil larger bore cub I should be looking for a small bore CPI still? Loco where do you get the header wrap?

I remember reading that you could actualy setup the V2's to make them flex more but they wore out MUCh faster. thats kind of what I was thinknig about also

It's also nice to have your lights not go dim when you let off the throttle Thats my favorite part, and makes it worth running the battery right there. Nothing like poping over a dune and killing your bike cause the other side drops off and having your lights go out... Or having to keepit reved up more than usual while putting around.... I got my new ricky stator and my bike revs out much cleaner than my old one after testing my setup out last weekend.

Well I got some time, I'm leanming towards the CPI's since I like to haul ass through dunes more than drag race. I like the finish on them better also. But I'm not sure how my passion 350 motor would react to Big Bore CPI's...(untill I get my 4 mil cubs) and I'm not crazy about the stingers rubbing my pods...Even wrapped I think they would be pressing into the filters pretty good. Spacing with washers sounds better, gotta love the way the Shearers clear the angled pods so much better...

I dunno man but sounds like you may as well upgrade them

should be fine thats what mine use??? As long as they press in tight. Actualy I dunno I have never sceen a setup like that. Actualy I'm having a really hard time picturing bearings in there, so there is a rod pressed into some bearings?