Justintoxicated

from my experience running huge jets in stock carbs does not usualy work well..but I'd check yoru crank intakes reeds etc to make sure that was yoru problem. Did you even looka t teh plugs and break it in before you went WOT?

I eliminated mine and the throttle is nice and snappy now...Did not notice any real difference. From my understanding it helps a banshee idle by equalizing pressure between the 2 cylinders when the carbs are not in sync. But mne are in sync and it's just another place for an airleak or for the rubber intake the split.

I hate jury duty and I have never been I always find a way out of it! So far lucky, but next time I'll probably have to do it. At least the work pays for it though...so do you have to go all the way downtown or something?

Dam man that sucks isn't this going to be your last T-day @ glamis for some time too?

I looked at them they looked ok, but the springs and build quality and expecialy valving is likely inferior to other companies. They do have more technology in that they have 2 dedicated lines to the resevoir (input and output line) but that is lkely only goign to help so much... From my understanding the stock rear has a good housing, but has pretty crappy internals but once those are replaced they are almsot as good as any aftermarket rear shock, not 100% equal but probably 80%, if you want that extra 20% its going to cost you 2-3x as much, which is fine for some and too much for others. now front shocks are another story altogether, the stock fronts body and internals are crap. I still messing with adjustments on the elka elites now that the initial break in is done . Gotta love all the adjustments. I heard Ohlins has better valving so when it's time for a rebuild I'll be using the elka body and ohlins internals to have the best of both worlds! Of course Axis is great too $$$$$$$$$$

I wish you would have known to remove the lower shock locknut though, that way I would have had a replacemetn when I lsot mine could just left a note, here is your banshee but we borrowed a few minor parts

no shit pistons clearly fire in the shape of a V on the banshee, if it was not a V twin the cylinders would be next to each other firing straight up and down which would require a wider frame for an inline twin duh! The only banshees that are not V-twins are the ones that are liquid cooled.... goshh.... idoit! You can identify a non V-twin banshee by the Liquid cooled sticker on them, if it does nto have the sticker then it has to be a V-Twin.

better hurry up dude mine are on the way Just need to run 2 wires to connect them and a ground wire! My total was ummm...See post below for prices

well technically you could run just a capacitor wih the DC conversion, but it's not going to save you much money if any. It will put more strain on the lights and possible the stator (lights will draw more current with less voltage), and HID's draw more current when starting up than running so you might have to rev the bike to get them to warm up first...HID's don't like to have varying current and voltage so I would go with a battery. If you wanna test it though, it might work and probably will, but I think just running a capacitor might shorten the life of the lights some and cause them to have a harder time starting up, since voltage and power typicaly drop at idle. Even with a high output stator, high output flywheel, and a battery there is still fluctuation in curent and voltage from idle to reving the motor, just not nearly as much. Besides if your going to use a capacitor to help regulate voltage and current why not just get a battery when it's going to work better.

Wow good news, I got an email from Jeff at trailtech today and he says not only does he have 2 MR16 HID's with my name on them but I can get them for handlebar OR stock location! So naturally I had to ask if I could just order both, but I have a feeling that I can only get ahold of 2 at this time. Which would mean stock location mounted since I already have the Osram Sylvania MR16 IR's on my handlebars. Price is $99.95 each! Cheap as hell but the stock location mounts are $30 each.... Not bad at all! Just waiting to hear where to send money to! To be honest I don't mind softer light at all (slightly yellowish from Halogens) it is easier on the eyes, but damn I saw these things at the sand show and they were impressive. Much better than the lazerstar HID's I saw at the show, which were also much more expensive!

x2

Not sure on the death at gordons near the campground, sounds like the truck was driving through the camping area too fast, there was another death at glamis also at the drags. I did not witness either. Pretty typical for a large weekend at imperial sand dunes though, but always sad. Probably much less typical at LS? Always hard to lose someone you know or care about...

acorn nuts do look nice but regular nuts work better... I used Honda nuts on mine cause they were shiny. lol

call FMF then, they ARE nickle plated, and mothers works great on nickle plating. NICKLE NICKLE NICKLE.... When I bought them I thoght they were chrome also but nope....every time you polish you remove some plating and eventualy they will start to rust. but hey you gotta do what you gotta do. my only complaint with the Fattys and that the pipe springs slightly rub on the pipes and that they are nickle plated. Maybe they chrome their 4 stroke pipes but the Fattys are DEFINATELY Nickle plated, it's easy to see the difference. I have sceen chrome fattys before and theres no way they came from FMF that way they looked DAMN good and I was jealous. They have however improved their nickle plating since I bought my set. Anyone want to buy some Fattys?

I could nto find a case saver in RMATV for a banshee? They definately do not sella billet one.

wouldent 33mm PWK's work better with a non stroked motor?

when starting in second don't pop the clutch let it out at a rate where you can stay in the power, it takes a bit of practice.

Well then FMF's are nickle plated NOT chrome (like toomys) ..Unless you have specificaly chromed them. Mothers works great on them I know I have had a set for few years now I use my old cotton socks to polish mine. Make sure you get all the polish off or they will dull again quickly. Also your pant crust will come off easier if the pipes are hot, but don't burn yourself.

That really sucks, I think a 16 year old girl was killed at gordons last weekend too, a truck ran into her. They both swerved the same direction. I hate hearing stuff like this. I'm sorry. Much worse when it is someone you know. Was he wearing a helmit?

No way in hell the V2's are junk! I dunno if I trust snaps instead of screws you dont want the reed flyng into your cylinder either... but hell Might as well get 3's the perfoemance is supposed to be the same. I owuld have gone with the coolhead though. Your getting the crank Welded and Trued for $50? Thats a really good deal I hope they know what they are doing and have the right tools to true the crank... if the material is removed fromteh right area teh flywheel should not have ay issues with being lightened I would send it to boonman to do this is I was you. My stock crank was starting to seperate after 2 years but was still within spec so I had it welded and trued.

Is there some special electrical for the brake light? cause i can do all the wiring needed for it. or you mean you are goign to use the brake light switch thingy? I have been wondering how hardit would be to add the brake light hardware sould be nice since I sometimes ride with buggies.

Passion, Patriot and GRR, and A&S is who I would look into talking to.

they will just be on/off because MR16's don't have dual filiments and the reflector is not setup that way. However you wont need high and low beams! I like the 10deg spots myself they throw a nice large round circle of light in front of you. You can also gain 30% more light by switching to osram sylvania MR16 "IR" bulbs (mus tbe IR version). If you wind your stator and use the 55 watt version of the osram IR bulb, you would have equivalant light to a 70 watt MR16. the 35 watt version is about the same light as a typical 50 watt MR16. Different MR16 bulbs will give you different results I really prefer the Osram reflectors! Very nice smooth even coverage.