Justintoxicated

next time buy a DID X ring chain. it is ok to botem out the adjusters to get the chain in spec, you can always remove a link later. However you should be able to adjust out one link pretty easy... probably even 2.

you can usualy hear the water pump impeller though, t's kinda noisy with the bike at idle...they all make some noise in my experience.

I have one make me an offer. (send m a PM so I don't forget)

anyone run these without V-force reeds?

Ok I got them hooked up and turned them both on at the same time, Battery was kinda low though from all the messing around prior and One of them shut off while I was trying to aim them. (I think due to low battery cause it turned back on once I shut the other one off) So they are pretty bright Who wants to buy my Ricky Stator Iluminator handlebar lights and some osram 55 watt IR bulbs?

I need more proof that loctite eats plastic however thats what I have been told! or it makes it so screws can back out at least, I heard they do make a special loctite for plastic.

well for the stock location lights they are adjustable up and down as well as side to side, the mount hardware was pretty nice, and there are 2 pivot points for the up/down and side to side. I lit them up and I need to compare these to my Osram sylvania True Aim IR's still. I did notice the 10 deg beam on the expensive IR Halogen is Larger and smoother and more consistant. The MR 16's have a very intense hotspot (for an MR 16 SIZE LIGHT) with aq slightly less bright area around the botspot and spill light off to the side. Even though the MR16 HID's are listed as 13 deg, I think they have a smaller hotspot than the IR bulbs. I'm not saying these are worse then the IR"s just different. It will make comparisons more difficult since just due to reflector design the HID's will throw farther and have a bright spot, especialy far farther distances. I have to admit it would be hard to beat osram sylvania for consistancy as these Bulbs have blown away all other MR16 halogens I have tested in both beam qualiy and brightness. I mean these 50 watt halogen bulbs are easily putting off more than 2 times the light of 35 watt wallmart Halogens with 4x the beam quality..... They deliver a supurb beam which is perfect for riding (looks like a nice huge circle in front of you that is consistantly the same brightness throughout with very little spill light off to the side and no defined hotspot. They work absolutly great on the handlebars. Also note that in the pics I will be taking the halogens will look WAY more yellow, color is NOT an indication of brightness. My particular set of HID's have a bluish tint which will automaticaly make them look more intense... I do feel the new HID's are going to stomp my IR's and use less power in doing so. And the HID's definately have a VERY good beam, but it is different from the IR's and I really did like the way their beam worked. (course I can probably run both sets at the same time with the Hi Output Stator, Flywheel, and Battery conversion but only time will tell) I doubt I will coimpare these to stock lights or even typical MR 16 Halogens, that would be like taking a knife to a gunfight...your talking about lighting a lighter to see in the dark, or lighting a magnesium block on fire to see in the dark!

Very Interesting, My Bike ran better when I removed the crossover compleatly Guess my motor is optomized for no boost bottle...

that blows, at least you got out though, Yours are on the way, mine are being installed!

Did you mess with the crank? Why Did your topend go? Maybe you have a bad seal on your crank and are suckig in tranny oil. Maybe this is why you needed a new topend to begin with?

I have heard mixed things on this, the coils can heat up if you attempt to draw too much currnet form them which supposedly can cause the coild to short on each other (melt through the wires coating) (they are coated so that each widing does not contact the other widings. But I have no real opinion on this because it seems to me it would put out so much power also... But hell your talking about regular LED's I'm sure it's closer to 2 watts the the stock taillight which is 5 watts and I beleive 15 watts when braking (I don't have this taillight I have the old one with no brakes) So most likely your saving power not consuming more! I could however get you some LED's that would fit in a light that size that could overload your stator but it would not be cheap!

I dunno dude but I used a hacksaw on mine too and it was free, then I used some kinda planing tool to shap the edge,

Well, you would not want your lights affecting how spark you have would you? And you woudl not want lights running from the CDI (voltage is much too high and would explode the lights, not only that but they would not stay on they would only light up when the CDI caused spark which would require much more complex electronics to deal with if it was even possible as well as decrease efficiency) The stock stator harness has a plug, and a black and yellow wire. The Black and yellow wire is for the lights (goes to voltage regulator), the Plug goes to the CDI directly and by passes the regulator.

I agree with everything except for performance, FMF's make more HP over a broader range, but the T5's have a little more peak HP, so they are pretty qual performance wise. T5's are better quality IMO and sound and look better, but they cost more money too

if you are set on getting one carb trinity has some kinda fuel pump injection thing to inject more fuel into the carb at higher RPM's kinda compensating for only having 1 carb, but you will need to run a battery to use it, and I think you have to set it on a dyno. IMO stick with 2 carbs and you won't lose much lowend. Then again if it's tight trails a single carb setup is for you, but banshees are not really made for tight trails...

Fatty's also work very well on a ported motor, possibly better than T5's, but especialy if you use T5 silencers on the Fattys. Tooms do sound and look better than Fattys though, but fatts might sound better with toomy silencers

Jim at passion shoudl eb able to give you what you want. Partiot racing is also a good choice.

I would say FMF Fattys for best power curve for your purposes.... T5's would give you a little more peak HP, but likely less power everywhere but the top. However T5's look better IMO. edit ^^^ this guy was writing at the same time lol.

are the brake pads shot or are the brakes jsut soft? you probably just need Braided brake lines..

Well I went to buy used in Cali and it was about 1500 cheaper than buying new... but yea the new one is stock, however I kinda liked that I was able to pickout all the parts and see how each mod reflected performance to make what I have today... However now that I have leared so much by chaning stuff on them I would not hesitate to buy used but they are still very expensive used here in Cali...In fact I looked for months and could not find a banshee in the 3k range that actualy ran and most in the sub 4,500 dollar rage were from 1986-87 and had J-arms... Course if you buy new you will always have the newest banshee of everyone since this is the last year they are making 2 stroke ATV's

get a parking brake blockoff and unplug the TORS I think it sounds like the motor thinks your parking brake is engauged I had this problem from time to time when i used to have my parking brake... Just playing with the praking brake usualy solves the problem...but yo copuld jsut buy a yahaha factory clutch for like 30 bones and a parking brake blockoff.

yea call and complain because as of now streamline thinks I'm crazy.

Hey Ben the bike is looking good and nice truck too. Sorry to hear about all the other crap but it sounds like your back on your feet now. Full time school plus 56 hours of work a week isnt that like a 26 hour days? Man roostfest stickers fell off last trip after allrat roosted the shit out of me be bad it started to peel up my stickers

if was betting I would put my money on the 450

Oops Sorry guys the correct price is $150 each + mounting hardware of your choice