Justintoxicated

x2 sept I'm tired of the animal style frys. My G/F likes the Grilled Cheese Sandwitch.

Battery conversion is a PITA though, and would still get a new stator to run the HID's IMO. As they will shut off automatic if voltage drops below 12V. But yea, not too much more for HID.

well anyone know a good battery charger for quad? I have my eye on this one? http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/cat...d=789167&page=1

Cool, we have sceen what the IR can do (not too bad but not quite impressive) no awwww damn factor. Lets see some standard torch pics. Actualy my bike should be making enough juice to run them at idle, it runs the 55 IR's fine (slightly brighter when on the throttle) and the stock headlights don't get any brighter at idle than when Im on the gas due to the stator and high output flywheel. But yea your right, that is what is happening, just worries be about running 2 more of these (I want 4), and I still have the other problems. Looking forward to seeing pics. Mine were 5 second exposures, with ISO locked, but I could nto control aperature setting cause it's just my little digital elph, you have that camera that goes compleatly manual right? Make sure you locked all setting so you can get a better comparison than I did. Or the easiest way to get good beamshots is to take a picture with both lights on at the same time but pointed at different locations the same distance away, and a white wall is preferable if available.

Tell him you will race right after you add some NOS And then do it.

I just use the nuts from RMATV, tighten by hand with socket, thats it, never had a problem.

yes, but the right one always shuts off not the left, I'm going to talk to their electrical engineer today hopefully and we can resolve the issue. It might possibly be a bad ballast or something causeing all the other problem, I don't know. With the bike at idle and the battery I should have NO trouble keeping 12V for a 30 watt HID. or even 60 watts for the HIDs?

Oh man, Just a TOY!!!! WTH man! What are you going to ride this season? Well, it's ben fun riding with you n stuff, hope your not getting out of the sport all together?

they are both 13 deg spots, and both IR are 10 deg spots. Maybe the battery is jsut not powerful enough to run 2, but it SHOULD be. I can't see running 4 at this point. The HID's are on backorder but I may be selling mine.

Anyone have an osciliscope in the Long Beach Area? I have run into some issues and I believe these lights may have damaged some other components on my banshee (LED's). I would like to do further investigation, more details to come... Noting is 100% yet so I need to discuss things with trailtech before I can explain what has happened. Also don't plan on running these without a large battery, my battery may be weak, but I could not keep them both light up without giving the banshee some throttle, fresh battery I'm sure they would be fine though but draining at idle for sure. I may have to have a secondary regulator/filter made to keep the rest of the electrical system at or near 12V pics, I took these with my camera but I am not able to Lock aparature size, only ISO and Shutter speed. I snapped 4 pics (2 of each) and they all came out the same. I do not think they accurately portray the HID's but this is what the pics looked like. Trailtech 30 watt HID 13 deg beam Sylvania 50 watt IR 10 deg beam the HID's are definately brighter (despite what you can see in the pics), how much I'm not sure they definately appear brighter due to their whiter color, the IR bulbs look yellow compared to what the cam portrays. I showed my friend and he agreed and was impressed with the HID's. again the HID's are brighter despite the IR's lighting up more area. If I can resolve the issues I have I will take more pics but otherwise it's back to the Halogens for a while. You can DEFINATELY get a good idea of the beams. the IR's have more flood as I suspected, the trailtech reflectors are more of a spot. Funny thng is trailtech HID"s are 13 deg and Sylvania says 10 deg ! but there you have it. I'm sure my neighbors love me for doing this at 10:00! I REALLY wanted to get both lights in the same shot, as this is the easiest way to do a beamshot comparison. But I could not get the Halogens to work at the same time as the IR's... Perhaps if I turn the Halogens on first, with a freshly charged battery, but I had other isses I was more concerned about before ending the testing.

producs name is 50MR16/IR/SP/10/C 12V GU5.3 30W 10deg/SP #54175 might have to call them to ask about their 35 watt version, www.sylvania.com these bulbs are made in germany, these are good quality MR16's not your wallmart crap. Box says Tru-Aim IR Mr 16 Covered Halogen Infrared with ricky stator setup your best bet would probably be 4 of these 35 watt version, or 2 50's if you only want 2. No reason to put in anything higher power than the 50 IR in a light with the reflector the size of an MR16. Unless your willing to switch to HID.

Like I said different kind of riding. I'll bet you woudl be done for the weekend after a few long dune rides at glais on a 500, thats alot of bike to muscle around teh big bowls. If you want to race on the street get a crotch rocket not a 500.

I thought Chrome held up better han PC...it might get scratched but so does PC..?? Guess it depends how bad you beat on it. But PC is cheaper if you need to get them re-did

You don't get it do you? A stock Banshee is only like 35 HP RW due to the restrictors in the pipes. A Piped Banshee is about 45 HP RW A stock Dirtbike 250 2 stroke is close 45 something horsepower RW without any mods and weighs less. Now a Stroked and Ported Banshee with Cubs can be over 100HP on pump gas. Dirtbikes are cool, but damn if I'll ever choose one over a quad in the dunes... Thats ALOT of work and COMPLEATLY different kind of ride. Hell my truck has over 300 HP and will do well over 100 , but I'm not going to go smashing through the dunes in it! I don't think a 500 is going to give you the ride yoru looking for but I might be wrong, I would stick with the 250 myself. It does not sound like a banshee is for you.

it's best to line them up as close as possible to get equal traction on both sides at the same time, otherwise the bike will likely be a little more squirmy, little but off won't really do anything.

because you have stock pipes?

too bad your not going thanksgiving, my friend has a trinity custom 5 mil from back when they were good, he runs a I believe 38 pwk with some sorta fuel injection system (injected into the carb not the motor) that is calibrated on a dyno. it increases fuel in the higher RPM range to make it flow similar to a dual carb, then again he runs NOS anyways so he might as well have that setup... So it can definately be done. I think he said he drills out his own jets too.

I have good experience with alba, I acidentaly damaged my brand new stainless steal brake lines before I even installed them and they sent them back and had them warrantied for me. Then again I don't order stuff from them online, and everything I order online is always to a credit card, so If I don't what I ordered i can always dispute the payment. They have been pretty buisy the last few times I was in there store.

I only have the exact part number for the 50 watt version, but I'll bet the 35 watt version just has a 35 instead of a 50 I can look when I get home.

how much were the lense covers? Are tehse the ones you can leave on while using the lights? The lights get quite warm... Only thing about them I could say need sinprovement is the wire leads are too skinny for my taste, even though these HID's are eficient, from my understanding HID"s like to pull alot of current while warming up, and the wire looks a bit small for the amount of current at startup, But hell they work, so I doubt it's long enough to make much differece. Don't worry those cover might scuff up your lights a bit, at least thats my experience with light covers and sand

Pull the pipes and remove the drain plug in the cylinder,unscrew hose clamps and drain those too. I tip the bake when drainging the coolant from the cylinders. Empty coolant bottle. Anything left won't be much... I would drain the coolant before you install the new head, and refil it after... 1 bottle of engine ice should be enough.

I use bel ray gear saver, I find it works very well ad helps give me consistant shifting. I also find it does not need to be changed as often. But then again I don't trust ATF in my banshee... I stay clear of additives like the Lucas stuff, from what I read although it helps the oil cling to the gears to also traps air inside the oil which is a bad thing.

you best bet is to weld on another stock peg, or go with the IMS setup..